trailer wheels won't turn

*In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake
shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.

Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. *It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.


Sorry to hear about your bad luck. No suggestions, other than go
electric since it will prolly cost less to switch over than to fix,
and you get MUCH better brakes out of the deal. That work normal in
reverse. And don't freeze up when not used for a little while. And
don't need to be babied/greased/talked nice too etc. Should I change
my '10 reasons' to switch list my into '11 reasons' to switch to
electric brakes list? Nah, long term mechanical reliability is
already covered...

-Paul (eff surge brakes!) Hanson

As noted in earlier posts, most likely corrosion. Probably rust in
the cables due to lack of use and maintenance. Find something to spray
in the two cables.
WD-40, anything that claims to free rusted parts. Brake fluid if you
can get it in.
When you've got it clean keep it protected, especially as you live
where things go rusty. LPS-3 is my favorite rust inhibitor.
Jim

On Jun 17, 8:47*am, sisu1a wrote:
* *In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake

shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.
Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. *It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. No suggestions, other than go
electric since it will prolly cost less to switch over than to fix,
and you get MUCH better brakes out of the deal. That work normal in
reverse. And don't freeze up when not used for a little while. And
don't need to be babied/greased/talked nice too etc. *Should I change
my '10 reasons' to switch list my into '11 reasons' to switch to
electric brakes list? * *Nah, long term mechanical reliability is
already covered...

-Paul (eff surge brakes!) Hanson

Paul

Maybe one day you'll be maneuvering your trailer by hand on a gentle
slope and unable to control it and it will run over you. Then those of
us who like override brakes won't have to put up with your list
anymore ;-)

---

Where I keep my trailer in relatively dry conditions everybody leaves
the brakes on, the larger fear is the occasional strong wind, even if
the trailers are also chocked and well jacked. I've had several pilots
from the UK tell me that it is common at their clubs is to keep the
brake off because of this chance of seizure.


Darryl

Peter's instructions are spot on. 1 & 2 might work. 3 WILL work even
if the problem is frozen cables or other parts of the mechanism, but
then you'll have to readjust the brakes to make them servicable for
driving. At least it should allow you to remove the drum for access to
the brake. I'm not sure it's corrosion in the brake mechanism that's
the problem so much as the shoes seizing/rusting to the drum over time
due to moisture. After too many first-flight-of-the-year sessions like
this, I no longer set the parking brake for long-term storage.

Chip Bearden (with experience on both Komet and Cobra trailers)
ASW 24 "JB"
USA

Darryl Ramm wrote:
Where I keep my trailer in relatively dry conditions everybody leaves
the brakes on, the larger fear is the occasional strong wind, even if
the trailers are also chocked and well jacked. I've had several pilots
from the UK tell me that it is common at their clubs is to keep the
brake off because of this chance of seizure.

In Europe where manual gearboxes are still popular, most people know
that leaving the handbrake on for extended periods is not recommended.
In the USA with their authomatic gearboxes, this knowledge seems to have
got lost.

Mostly the problem is not corrosion of the cable but that the brake
shoes tend to somehow get "glued" to the drum. Forcing your trailer
backward may loosen the brakes, if you can do so without engaging the
override mechanism. Otherwise you may have to open the brake drums and
losen the shoes by hand.

Chris,
I missed seeing you at Cordele.

As Matt said, the previous owner of his trailer left the hand brake
on, and parked outside in the North Carolina rain and humidity for a
long time, the brakes seized. Backing off the star adjusters will
hopefully work. If not, you might end up having to take a torch to
the drum to try and break the grip that the rust has on the shoes.
Big hammer and a torch. Maybe. Get professional help!

Before seeing that trailer end up with locked brakes, I didn't set my
hand brake. After seeing the trouble the previous owner went through
and the expense of finally getting it fixed, I NEVER set my hand brake
for more than a few hours. Now, I just use the hand brake when
maneuvering the trailer on a slight slope for a few inches as I
connect it to the car. When I have the trailer where I want it, I'll
chock it and tie it down. But I'm not setting the hand brake!

Good luck!

Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina, USA

Many good suggestions. If the star adjuster route doesn't work my
suggestion is to jack up the trailer, remove the wheels and use a 10
lb hammer to strike the circumference of each drum. I've used this
many times to remove brake drums on cars.

Good luck,

George