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Imron?



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 23rd 04, 03:07 PM
David Lesher
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"Jay Honeck" writes:


Imron is the paint of choice for airplanes. It's more difficult to work
with, but the results are much more long-lasting.


I seem to recall it's quite hazardous to apply; far more so than
"paint" in general. Once dry, however... Anyone know the details?
--
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& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
  #2  
Old April 23rd 04, 04:28 PM
G.R. Patterson III
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David Lesher wrote:

I seem to recall it's quite hazardous to apply; far more so than
"paint" in general. Once dry, however... Anyone know the details?


It's a cyano-acrylic paint. Highly poisonous. Requires a full body suit with no
exposed skin and a external air supply (goes right through filters). Ron Natalie can
provide more details than most people will need.

George Patterson
This marriage is off to a shaky start. The groom just asked the band to
play "Your cheatin' heart", and the bride just requested "Don't come home
a'drinkin' with lovin' on your mind".
  #3  
Old April 25th 04, 02:47 AM
Scott Lowrey
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Paul Folbrecht wrote:

The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.


Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott
  #4  
Old April 25th 04, 03:10 AM
G.R. Patterson III
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Scott Lowrey wrote:

Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?


Not usually. Most of us either stuff something in it or tape over it. If it's the
intake to the oil cooler, some companies used to market "official" winterization
kits, but product liability laws put a stop to that.

George Patterson
If you don't tell lies, you never have to remember what you said.
  #5  
Old April 25th 04, 01:58 PM
Mike Spera
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The "correct" way to get a leaky air vent to close is to replace the
seal material on the flap. It is a pain in the butt because most Pipers
use a design where the seal material is sandwiched between 2 aluminum
plates that are riveted together. This is similar to the flap in the
carb air box. I believe Piper sells the assembly, but I predict the
price is probably high (like $60). I believe that is what I paid for an
air box flap replacement. I never compared them, but they look VERY similar.

The seals on my '74 air vents work fine.

A temporary fix that does not screw anything up is to stuff a Nerf ball
into the plastic vent diverter. However, many cheapskates have broken
vents that they won't replace. In many Warriors and Archers, the front
vents are situated too far back to be of any use, even if the plastic
diverters are in place. On my 140, they are just forward enough to blast
on the front of my body and face.

Good Luck,
Mike



Scott Lowrey wrote:
Paul Folbrecht wrote:


The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.



Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott



__________________________________________________ _____________________________
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  #6  
Old April 25th 04, 02:38 PM
Jay Honeck
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The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.


Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?


The correct way to solve a cabin air leak is to replace or repair the faulty
duct or flapper. In our case, a previous owner had actually *removed* the
flapper control for our fresh air ducts, which meant we were relying on the
little ceiling mounted louvered ducts to shut off outside air. Not good.

When the outside air temp is below 10 degrees, ANY infiltration is
noticeable. Thus, we ended up replacing the missing flapper control, the
flexible ductwork, control cable, AND the ceiling plastic.

Since this is a giant pain, some people take the easy and cheap way out.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


  #7  
Old April 25th 04, 09:23 PM
Paul Folbrecht
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I agree with that assessment!

And, I'm in Wisconsin and have flown several times where the temp was
right at the point that my FBO *allowed* their planes to fly - like 5
degrees F - and did not see a need to block the wing roots even then!
Once the heater is going you're fine.

Scott Lowrey wrote:
Paul Folbrecht wrote:


The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.



Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott

 




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