Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.

On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.



Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.



Mike

Thanks for all the inputs you Guys.Is there anyone that i can take it or send the canopy to that can repair it for me?

On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.



Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.



Mike

On Monday, October 14, 2013 12:09:06 PM UTC-7, wrote:
I would suggest using Acrifix 192.



http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produkt...IFIX%20192.pdf

Acrifix 2R 0190 is the two component version. The straight 190 relies on UV for the cure.
http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrif...s/default.aspx

It's listed on Wings and Wheels website

On Monday, October 14, 2013 7:14:11 PM UTC-6, Craig Funston wrote:
On Monday, October 14, 2013 12:09:06 PM UTC-7, wrote:

I would suggest using Acrifix 192.







http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produkt...IFIX%20192.pdf



Acrifix 2R 0190 is the two component version. The straight 190 relies on UV for the cure.

http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrif...s/default.aspx



It's listed on Wings and Wheels website

I have used ACRYFIX 2R0190 and it works very well. Like it better than the single component version, I thought that it cured quicker with less shrinkage.