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#1
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What drill motors do you recommend?
-- Dan D. .. "Veeduber" wrote in message ... I love my Sioux drill. Great trigger. Mine only goes 2600 RPM. Seems to do just fine at that speed. ------------------------------------------------- Dear Scott, I don' t want to bust up your romance but I suggest you borrow a drill-motor that turns at a higher speed and shoot a few holes. You really don't know what you're missing. I usta have a B&D 'aviation' drill motor, turned something like 4000 rpm. Wore it out. Had it rebuilt. Twenty years later it needed another rebuild but the bull-gear was not available at a price I could afford. Since then I've been using those cheap Chinee imports that turn 3600 rpm, last just about long enough for one airplane's-worth of holes, throw it away when it gets noisy. Air tools are nice but compressing air to drive a drill puts you on the wrong side of the economic equation here in southern California. That's a point a lot of newbies miss. Pneumatic drill is a real air hog; takes a pretty good compresser to keep you working. (On the other hand, pneumatic riveting hammers or squeezers don't use much air.) If a guy doesn't already have a big compressor, when you add the acquisition cost to the operating cost and divide by the number of holes, it represents a significant increase in cost when compared to using throw-away electric drill motors. -R.S.Hoover |
#2
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![]() "Blueskies" wrote in message news ![]() What drill motors do you recommend? He does not recommend any. He just wants everyone to know they do not know ****. -- Dan D. . "Veeduber" wrote in message ... |
#3
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![]() "B.H. Lazard" wrote He does not recommend any. He just wants everyone to know they do not know ****. You are real off on that comment. He is one of the most worthwhile reads on RAH. I think you need to stick around for a while, before you snap to such judgements. For now, PLONK. -- Jim in NC --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.594 / Virus Database: 377 - Release Date: 2/24/2004 |
#4
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He does not recommend any. He just wants everyone to know they do not know
****. Hmmm u bash someone but u cant sign it. chris |
#5
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What drill motors do you recommend?
---------------------------------------------------------- Dear Dan, If you mean 'recommend' in the sense of endorsement, I don't. I don't have enough experience with the stuff that's presently available. To offer an opinion that isn't based on actual experience is little more than a lie. Most of my tools are like me: Old. Most were inhereted or purchased used, subsidized by WWII and most came from companies that no longer exist. To drill a clean hole the motor must be capable of spinning the bit at the proper speed. The chuck has spin reasonably true and the thing should be durable enough to not break down half-way through the job. But a high percentage of the mail I get is from guys building on a very tight budget, far removed from the typical kit assembler. That puts me in something of a bind with regard to recommending tools because I know a cheap tool is no bargain... even through their use may be a NECESSITY for some builders. In the past I've mentioned a high-speed 1/4" drill motor available from Harbor Freight as being suitable. I did that after buying one and using it for a few hundred holes. Of course, by the time I mentioned it, that particular item-number was no longer available and we had to wait for the next boat from China :-) These aren't what I consider durable tools, although most will give you at least one airplane's-worth of service. But if you're doing repair work or bucking rivets at one of the local RV factories, their price is so low that if you wait for a sale it makes good sense to buy a batch of them and simply use the things up. See if you can find the riveting article I wrote. Or the one on drilling ('The Hole Story'). They may broaden your perspective on this task. Truth is, you can use a manually-powered hand-drill if that's all you got (they made special 'high speed' hand-drills just for aircraft work) but there's a bit more to it than simply turning the crank. Same is true when using an electric or pneumatic drill-motor. ANY of them can save you some time but some are much more appropriate for aviation metalsmithing than others. -R.S.Hoover |
#6
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Thanks, I was wondering what electric motor type is around. I have seen quite a few air drills for a reasonable cost
with the speed we need, but as stated earlier you need a good hi-flow compressor which I don't have. Hmmmm... -- Dan D. .. "Veeduber" wrote in message ... What drill motors do you recommend? ---------------------------------------------------------- Dear Dan, If you mean 'recommend' in the sense of endorsement, I don't. I don't have enough experience with the stuff that's presently available. To offer an opinion that isn't based on actual experience is little more than a lie. Most of my tools are like me: Old. Most were inhereted or purchased used, subsidized by WWII and most came from companies that no longer exist. To drill a clean hole the motor must be capable of spinning the bit at the proper speed. The chuck has spin reasonably true and the thing should be durable enough to not break down half-way through the job. But a high percentage of the mail I get is from guys building on a very tight budget, far removed from the typical kit assembler. That puts me in something of a bind with regard to recommending tools because I know a cheap tool is no bargain... even through their use may be a NECESSITY for some builders. In the past I've mentioned a high-speed 1/4" drill motor available from Harbor Freight as being suitable. I did that after buying one and using it for a few hundred holes. Of course, by the time I mentioned it, that particular item-number was no longer available and we had to wait for the next boat from China :-) These aren't what I consider durable tools, although most will give you at least one airplane's-worth of service. But if you're doing repair work or bucking rivets at one of the local RV factories, their price is so low that if you wait for a sale it makes good sense to buy a batch of them and simply use the things up. See if you can find the riveting article I wrote. Or the one on drilling ('The Hole Story'). They may broaden your perspective on this task. Truth is, you can use a manually-powered hand-drill if that's all you got (they made special 'high speed' hand-drills just for aircraft work) but there's a bit more to it than simply turning the crank. Same is true when using an electric or pneumatic drill-motor. ANY of them can save you some time but some are much more appropriate for aviation metalsmithing than others. -R.S.Hoover |
#7
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I have a 60 gallon upright air compressor and it seems to run the air
drill fine. I've never seen an electric drill that turned RPMs in the thousands. My Makita cordless at work might do a few HUNDRED RPM. When I bought my Sioux, it was the highest speed air drill I found at an aviation tool supply. Oh well, that's life... Scott Veeduber wrote: I love my Sioux drill. Great trigger. Mine only goes 2600 RPM. Seems to do just fine at that speed. ------------------------------------------------- Dear Scott, I don' t want to bust up your romance but I suggest you borrow a drill-motor that turns at a higher speed and shoot a few holes. You really don't know what you're missing. I usta have a B&D 'aviation' drill motor, turned something like 4000 rpm. Wore it out. Had it rebuilt. Twenty years later it needed another rebuild but the bull-gear was not available at a price I could afford. Since then I've been using those cheap Chinee imports that turn 3600 rpm, last just about long enough for one airplane's-worth of holes, throw it away when it gets noisy. Air tools are nice but compressing air to drive a drill puts you on the wrong side of the economic equation here in southern California. That's a point a lot of newbies miss. Pneumatic drill is a real air hog; takes a pretty good compresser to keep you working. (On the other hand, pneumatic riveting hammers or squeezers don't use much air.) If a guy doesn't already have a big compressor, when you add the acquisition cost to the operating cost and divide by the number of holes, it represents a significant increase in cost when compared to using throw-away electric drill motors. -R.S.Hoover |
#8
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A Dremel turns fast enough, but I don't think it has the oomph...
-- Dan D. .. "acepilot" wrote in message ... I have a 60 gallon upright air compressor and it seems to run the air drill fine. I've never seen an electric drill that turned RPMs in the thousands. My Makita cordless at work might do a few HUNDRED RPM. When I bought my Sioux, it was the highest speed air drill I found at an aviation tool supply. Oh well, that's life... Scott Veeduber wrote: I love my Sioux drill. Great trigger. Mine only goes 2600 RPM. Seems to do just fine at that speed. ------------------------------------------------- Dear Scott, I don' t want to bust up your romance but I suggest you borrow a drill-motor that turns at a higher speed and shoot a few holes. You really don't know what you're missing. I usta have a B&D 'aviation' drill motor, turned something like 4000 rpm. Wore it out. Had it rebuilt. Twenty years later it needed another rebuild but the bull-gear was not available at a price I could afford. Since then I've been using those cheap Chinee imports that turn 3600 rpm, last just about long enough for one airplane's-worth of holes, throw it away when it gets noisy. Air tools are nice but compressing air to drive a drill puts you on the wrong side of the economic equation here in southern California. That's a point a lot of newbies miss. Pneumatic drill is a real air hog; takes a pretty good compresser to keep you working. (On the other hand, pneumatic riveting hammers or squeezers don't use much air.) If a guy doesn't already have a big compressor, when you add the acquisition cost to the operating cost and divide by the number of holes, it represents a significant increase in cost when compared to using throw-away electric drill motors. -R.S.Hoover |
#9
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acepilot wrote in message ...
I have a 60 gallon upright air compressor and it seems to run the air drill fine. I've never seen an electric drill that turned RPMs in the thousands. My Makita cordless at work might do a few HUNDRED RPM. When I bought my Sioux, it was the highest speed air drill I found at an aviation tool supply. Oh well, that's life... Scott I have an ancient direct-drive air drill I found at a Princess Auto here in Canada. No gears in it, and it turns at some insane speed like an air die-grinder, maybe 15 or 20,000 RPM. It sure does a nice job on small holes in aluminum, very little tendency to skid. I wonder if it might be worthwhile to make a threaded adapter for a 1/4" chuck and clamp it into the collet of a 90-degree die grinder? Or are there any pistol-grip die grinders? Dan |
#10
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Actually there is a 3/32, 1/8, 1/4? set of collets available from
Princess Auto that seem to work fine with #30 and #40 bits in their cheap 90 degree die grinder. It gets into tighter places that way than it could with a chuck. I find that it turns too fast though and needs a steady hand or it will cut sideways like a router ;( It will make a hole real quick though if you don't have anything else that can get access to where you are working ![]() Ken I have an ancient direct-drive air drill I found at a Princess Auto here in Canada. No gears in it, and it turns at some insane speed like an air die-grinder, maybe 15 or 20,000 RPM. It sure does a nice job on small holes in aluminum, very little tendency to skid. I wonder if it might be worthwhile to make a threaded adapter for a 1/4" chuck and clamp it into the collet of a 90-degree die grinder? Or are there any pistol-grip die grinders? Dan |
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