Self-Riggers and disassembly of wings

John-

I reversed the ten.tta as I have in the past, but your
address bounced. Maybe something to do with the switch
to comcast? If you get a chance could you email an
image of what you built? Thanks much, Stu

At 18:48 18 August 2003, John Morgan wrote:
I recently made the tool Todd describes, copying the
one provided by Cobra
for the 26E and adding some minor features. The 'alignment
tool' is made
from black Delrin plastic rod, about 2' OD. The head
end has three 1/2'
holes drilled perpendicular to the tool main axis and
at 60 degree spacing
around the head so the handle can be easily inserted
in any of 6 positions.
The holes are offset from each other so they just clear
one another as they
pass through the center of the rod.

The next step down diameter, adjacent to the head,
is a few thousands
smaller than the spar bushing ID to provide a snug
slip fit. The length of
this section is almost two bushing widths to allow
it, once the spars are
pulled into alignment, to pass through one bushing
and enter the next almost
all the way.

The final step down end pin is turned eccentric on
the lathe and is small,
perhaps 3/4' OD so it will still enter the misaligned
spars, as Todd
mentions, the outside of this pin has to be on the
same plane as the OD of
the previous larger section. For strength, a 1/2' hole
is center drilled in
the eccentric end pin and all the way into the main
body of the tool. A 1/2'
steel rod (I used SS) is pressed flush into this hole
and should be a snug
interference fit, but not so tight as to weaken the
plastic. (I used a
hydraulic press to seat the pin.)

I added an index mark (drill depression - fill with
white paint) on the tool
head so to tell were the eccentric pin is when the
tool is inserted. This
helps as one can turn the tool by hand, feel for resistance
and thus
determine exactly which way the wing dolly needs to
move.

Even though the tool head has 3 indexing holes providing
6 handle positions,
I plan on making a 30 degree bend to one end of the
handle. Thus, by
reversing the tool handle I can increase the possible
insertion positions.
The current 60 degree spacing is okay, but my O2 bottle
is mounted above the
spars and sometimes gets in the way.
--
bumper
'Dare to be different . . . circle in sink.'
to reply, the last half is right to left
'Todd Pattist' wrote in message
.. .
'tango4' wrote:

One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered
aluminium pin that he
fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major
diameter is somewhat
less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1
cm. By rocking the
tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very
easily. He then
removes
the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I
help him to rig I swear
I
will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never
get round to it.


I've got a Ventus, and fortunately, it assembles with
ease.
My personal opinion is that I'd be uncomfortable using
a
'heavily tapered pin' and rocking it to draw the wings
together. This process would place a relatively high
load
on the edge of the bushings that the pin fits into.
Doing
that repeatedly might tend to break the bond holding
the
bushings in place.

If I needed to draw the wings together, I'd use the
tool
I've seen that has the end of the pin turned cylindrically
to a smaller diameter with an offset (but parallel)
axis.
(One side of the pin is smooth and the other side
has a step
at the tip to the smaller diameter cylindrical tip.)

When you insert this pin, the offset lets the smaller
diameter end enter the second bushing fully (provided
the
pin is turned correctly). You then rotate the assembly
pin
180 degrees and it pulls the wings together. The
force is
applied over the entire bushing.

Hope that was clear.
Todd Pattist - 'WH' Ventus C
(Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)


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I agree with Todd -- it seems that a pin that rocks
rather than rotates could score the wing pin bushings.
Schleicher provides an offset pin for assembly that
is turned from nylon (or some similar plastic). It
works like a charm.

For a disassembly tool you'd need different offsets
for the front/aft (left wing/right wing) parts and
the design would be a bit different to promote getting
the bushings to 'un-align', but it should work.

At 14:36 18 August 2003, Todd Pattist wrote:
'tango4' wrote:

One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered
aluminium pin that he
fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major
diameter is somewhat
less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1
cm. By rocking the
tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very
easily. He then removes
the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I help
him to rig I swear I
will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never
get round to it.


I've got a Ventus, and fortunately, it assembles with
ease.
My personal opinion is that I'd be uncomfortable using
a
'heavily tapered pin' and rocking it to draw the wings
together. This process would place a relatively high
load
on the edge of the bushings that the pin fits into.
Doing
that repeatedly might tend to break the bond holding
the
bushings in place.

If I needed to draw the wings together, I'd use the
tool
I've seen that has the end of the pin turned cylindrically
to a smaller diameter with an offset (but parallel)
axis.
(One side of the pin is smooth and the other side has
a step
at the tip to the smaller diameter cylindrical tip.)

When you insert this pin, the offset lets the smaller
diameter end enter the second bushing fully (provided
the
pin is turned correctly). You then rotate the assembly
pin
180 degrees and it pulls the wings together. The force
is
applied over the entire bushing.

Hope that was clear.
Todd Pattist - 'WH' Ventus C
(Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)