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#1
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At 04:30 19 May 2005, Bumper wrote:
Okay, I posted some pics to the glider forum. Look in albums by 'bumper' /relief system. Anybody ever run water with colored vegetable dye through one of these to see where the fluid actually goes? I've heard stories of pee getting sucked back into the rudder bellcranks and hinges with highly corrosive effect. I just carry a couple of medical leg bags behind my right elbow and dump them when I get back on the ground The are very tough, well-sealed vinyl - no muss, no fuss. 9B |
#2
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Yup, that's the way to do it. I mix up a fairly strong solution of food
coloring and water and dump ballast to be sure nothing gets on the fuselage or tail wheel area. bumper "Andy Blackburn" wrote in message ... At 04:30 19 May 2005, Bumper wrote: Okay, I posted some pics to the glider forum. Look in albums by 'bumper' /relief system. Anybody ever run water with colored vegetable dye through one of these to see where the fluid actually goes? I've heard stories of pee getting sucked back into the rudder bellcranks and hinges with highly corrosive effect. I just carry a couple of medical leg bags behind my right elbow and dump them when I get back on the ground The are very tough, well-sealed vinyl - no muss, no fuss. 9B |
#3
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Andy Blackburn wrote:
Anybody ever run water with colored vegetable dye through one of these to see where the fluid actually goes? No need for dye, just use the real thing... I've heard stories of pee getting sucked back into the rudder bellcranks and hinges with highly corrosive effect. I used the factory through the floor pee-tube system in my DG-101 for one season, the belly developed a nice stain all the way back to the tail, and the next annual found corrosion on both the CG hook and the rudder bellcranks. I switched over to a leg bag the next season. The suggested solutions here, however, are using much longer rigid tubes, in an effort dump the fluid farther out in the air stream. This may well work... I just carry a couple of medical leg bags behind my right elbow and dump them when I get back on the ground The are very tough, well-sealed vinyl - no muss, no fuss. For me, the problem with bags is that I have experienced a fairly significant rate of failure. If things aren't going my way, the bag will simply refuse to admit fluid, typically with amusing results... Marc |
#4
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FWIW, I have had the rudder off the hinges and the tailwheel out of its
bracket. No yellow stains anywhere. The rigid tube is sticking at least 14" below the belly of the aircraft. I especially like not having to wear a catheter, yet still having a positive seal. Glen "Marc Ramsey" wrote in message . .. Andy Blackburn wrote: Anybody ever run water with colored vegetable dye through one of these to see where the fluid actually goes? No need for dye, just use the real thing... I've heard stories of pee getting sucked back into the rudder bellcranks and hinges with highly corrosive effect. I used the factory through the floor pee-tube system in my DG-101 for one season, the belly developed a nice stain all the way back to the tail, and the next annual found corrosion on both the CG hook and the rudder bellcranks. I switched over to a leg bag the next season. The suggested solutions here, however, are using much longer rigid tubes, in an effort dump the fluid farther out in the air stream. This may well work... I just carry a couple of medical leg bags behind my right elbow and dump them when I get back on the ground The are very tough, well-sealed vinyl - no muss, no fuss. For me, the problem with bags is that I have experienced a fairly significant rate of failure. If things aren't going my way, the bag will simply refuse to admit fluid, typically with amusing results... Marc |
#5
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Glen Kelley wrote:
FWIW, I have had the rudder off the hinges and the tailwheel out of its bracket. No yellow stains anywhere. The rigid tube is sticking at least 14" below the belly of the aircraft. The amount of extension needed may vary from glider to glider. 8" has proven sufficient on my ASH 26, and that's short enough that I can just retract it until flush, and not have to remove it entirely. The bulb just lies off to the side, so I don't have to find a place to store it, and it's bit quicker and less distracting to use without the need to insert it first. -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#6
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look at my web page (copied from Aeox)
http://www.wingsandwheels.com/page35.htm and the flow charts for even normal constant flow systems (using Oxysaver cannulas) will show you over 46 hours usage at 10,000'....and over 25 hours at 15,000' all without using any electronic devices....the advantage (small) of the EDS is that you don't need to set the flow rates manually to get these higher durations.but the simple and reliable constant flow systems cost under 1/2 as much as the electronic systems and are simple and can easily fit all the components )(less bottle size of your choice) into a large sandwich bag! tim Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at: www.wingsandwheels.com "Eric Greenwell" wrote in message ... Glen Kelley wrote: FWIW, I have had the rudder off the hinges and the tailwheel out of its bracket. No yellow stains anywhere. The rigid tube is sticking at least 14" below the belly of the aircraft. The amount of extension needed may vary from glider to glider. 8" has proven sufficient on my ASH 26, and that's short enough that I can just retract it until flush, and not have to remove it entirely. The bulb just lies off to the side, so I don't have to find a place to store it, and it's bit quicker and less distracting to use without the need to insert it first. -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#7
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I use the "tube-within-a-tube" model with good results:
- Two different diameters of semi-rigid polyethylene tubing - Outer tube glassed into fuselage bottom (turned a small flange out of thin plywood steamed to match curvature of fuselage, epoxied tube into flange, then glassed whole thing into fuselage - just to be sure) - Nested (inside) tube can be extended about 8"-10" into slipstream - About 18" of flexible rubber tubing connects inside tube to catheter, allowing you to stay "hooked up" for the entire flight I had the rudder off this fall for some tail ballast mods, and there is zero corrosion on the tailwheel or rudder hardware. Same for the main gear. Plus, it drains completly due to the orientation of the tubes (ie. no sags to promote pooling). Only trick is to remember to retract the tube prior to landing. Otherwise, you get a literal demonstration of the term "stepping on it." P3 (or should I say Pee3) "Andy Blackburn" wrote in message ... At 04:30 19 May 2005, Bumper wrote: Okay, I posted some pics to the glider forum. Look in albums by 'bumper' /relief system. Anybody ever run water with colored vegetable dye through one of these to see where the fluid actually goes? I've heard stories of pee getting sucked back into the rudder bellcranks and hinges with highly corrosive effect. 9B |
#8
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At 16:00 20 May 2005, Eric Greenwell wrote:
8' has proven sufficient on my ASH 26, and that's short enough that I can just retract it until flush, and not have to remove it entirely. Sounds painful - and I'm not sure everyone has 8' to work with. 9B |
#9
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Andy Blackburn wrote:
At 16:00 20 May 2005, Eric Greenwell wrote: 8' has proven sufficient on my ASH 26, and that's short enough that I can just retract it until flush, and not have to remove it entirely. Sounds painful - and I'm not sure everyone has 8' to work with. Just what kind of people are they letting into gliders these days?! Why, when I was a young'un.... -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#10
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"Sounds painful - and I'm not sure everyone has 8' to
work with. 9B " Apparently, not a Texan... Jack Womack AZ |
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