Wooden Fuselage Gussets

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 21:27:29 -0500, "Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired"
wrote:

wrote:
This was a standard procedure on many early Fokker & de Haviland-type
fuselages (ie, plywood shear-web & wooden structural members), although
most were chamfered rather than routed. While there is some reduction
in weight, knocking off the corners reduces the surface area of the
exposed portion of the structural member, requiring less varnish.
Elimination of the corners also reduces the tendency for brashness or
splintering common to Douglas Fir.

In a similar vein, that odd green tint seen in the varnish on the
inside of early wooden airframes came from an anti-fungal agent, added
to the varnish to prevent the biological degradation of the
casein-based glue.

-R.S.Hoover

Aresenic or copper?

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Copper

"Chamfered"! Couldn't think of the right word there.

"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
oups.com...
"Chamfered"! Couldn't think of the right word there.


I'll bet that you would be just as satisfied with hitting the corners with a
piece of rough grit (80) sandpaper, on a block, then a finer grit (120) in
your hand, all -after- it is assembled.

The reason I say that, is that if you chamfer before you assemble, you will
be reducing the glue surface area, where the wood has already been removed.
It will also give you the chance for one more close inspection, looking for
bad joints, split wood, and so on.

All just my opinion, of course. g
--
Jim in NC

Not necessarily, Jim.

I was thinking to route out the areas NOT in contact with skin and
gussets, leaving the areas where other parts will be in contact.

On the Flybaby, for instance, one might be able to do the routing
after assembling the framework. But my origonal thought was to
lay out the pieces, mark off the areas to be routed off (sorry -
chamfered!) then assemble and glue together.

But the 80 grit grinder is probably as good an approach as what I was
thinking. Take less fore-thought anyway.

Having said all this, I'll point out that the only wood airplanes I've
ever built used 1/16" balsa sticks. Probably not feasible there...

Thinking too much?

RIchard

WwOn 10 Aug 2005 12:44:02 -0700, "Richard Lamb"
wrote:

Not necessarily, Jim.

I was thinking to route out the areas NOT in contact with skin and
gussets, leaving the areas where other parts will be in contact.

On the Flybaby, for instance, one might be able to do the routing
after assembling the framework. But my origonal thought was to
lay out the pieces, mark off the areas to be routed off (sorry -
chamfered!) then assemble and glue together.

But the 80 grit grinder is probably as good an approach as what I was
thinking. Take less fore-thought anyway.

Having said all this, I'll point out that the only wood airplanes I've
ever built used 1/16" balsa sticks. Probably not feasible there...

Thinking too much?

RIchard

Way too much!

Sounds like a lot of effort for a few ounces savings, and think of the
the potential damage if the power tool slips... A few swipes with
medium sandpaper to take the sharp edge off seems good enough for me.
Maybe round off the corners a bit (1/16" radius) in the cockpit near
the knees and elbows, but that's about all I'd do.

CB wrote:
Sounds like a lot of effort for a few ounces savings, and think of the
the potential damage if the power tool slips... A few swipes with
medium sandpaper to take the sharp edge off seems good enough for me.
Maybe round off the corners a bit (1/16" radius) in the cockpit near
the knees and elbows, but that's about all I'd do.

Sounds like a job for a block plane, chamfering plane, spokeshave,
or card scraper any of which will be neater and faster than sandpaper.

--

FF

Well, at least the goal is worthy.
It's HARD WORK to reduce weight.
A lot easier to add some.

Having said that, I'll give it a rest.

Richard

"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
oups.com...
Not necessarily, Jim.

I was thinking to route out the areas NOT in contact with skin and
gussets, leaving the areas where other parts will be in contact.

Gotcha

On the Flybaby, for instance, one might be able to do the routing
after assembling the framework.

Yes, but there will be stuff in the way, a lot of the time.

But my origonal thought was to
lay out the pieces, mark off the areas to be routed off (sorry -
chamfered!) then assemble and glue together.

Wow, that sounds like a lot of work!

Good woodworkers almost always round (ease) the sharp corners of exposed
wood. That is all I will do, most likely.
--
Jim in NC