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#11
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![]() snip Flattening the drill bit or getting one specifically for plastic definitly will make the job alot easier.Good Luck The easiest way is to fist drill a 1/2 inch deep hole into concrete to dull the edge of the bit. Local plastic place does this with cheap shop Chinese drill bits instead of buying flash expensive drill bits! Hope this helps, Pete |
#12
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![]() "ChuckSlusarczyk" wrote Chuck (I have 3 Dermal tools) So, you must have a lot of derma missing, with all of those tools, huh? Nah, never mind, I've seen pictures of you! g -- Jim in NC |
#13
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Bushy Pete wrote:
snip Flattening the drill bit or getting one specifically for plastic definitly will make the job alot easier.Good Luck The easiest way is to fist drill a 1/2 inch deep hole into concrete to dull the edge of the bit. Local plastic place does this with cheap shop Chinese drill bits instead of buying flash expensive drill bits! Hope this helps, Pete The easiest way is to just use the bits you already have in your toolbox and modify your technique to suit the material. I've seen those expensive bits. Never bought one. And I've never cracked plexiglass drilling a hole since I've learned to do it right. I just crank the drill as fast as it will go and let it burn it's way through, clean the cruft, let it cool and burn through it again. The sides come out rubbed smooth, and the edges just need a little chamfering. You're locally heating the plastic with this method, so the hole won't be the exact size of the bit, but is there such a thing as a precision hole in plexiglass? No! All the holes should be oversized to leave room for thermal expansion (as everyone knows) and for the superbright LEDs you want it slightly undersized so that the LED is a push fit. -- This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)." |
#14
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![]() "Ernest Christley" wrote The easiest way is to just use the bits you already have in your toolbox and modify your technique to suit the material. I disagree. The right way to drill _any_ material, is to us the correct bit for the job. You wouldn't use a concrete bit for drilling steel. You wouldn't use a wood bit for drilling concrete. What you are proposing does work, most of the time. It is _not_ the correct way, though, no matter what you say. -- Jim in NC |
#15
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Morgans wrote:
"Ernest Christley" wrote The easiest way is to just use the bits you already have in your toolbox and modify your technique to suit the material. I disagree. The right way to drill _any_ material, is to us the correct bit for the job. You wouldn't use a concrete bit for drilling steel. You wouldn't use a wood bit for drilling concrete. What you are proposing does work, most of the time. It is _not_ the correct way, though, no matter what you say. He didn't say it was the best way; he said it was the easiest way. Matt |
#16
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"Morgans" wrote in message
... I disagree. The right way to drill _any_ material, is to us the correct bit for the job. I find the Unibit does a great job on acrylic. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...058807-6775065 Rich S. |
#17
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![]() "Rich S." wrote I find the Unibit does a great job on acrylic. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...058807-6775065 Hmm, I have never thought of, or tried that. I would think it would, since it has a small positive rake, and does not self feed, and would take off only a small amount per step. I'll definitely have to try that out. I can rarely find my modified bits when I need them, and have to create a new one. I paint them red, so they stand out in the "bit box" but that does not always guarantee that I will find one... Thanks! -- Jim in NC |
#18
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"Morgans" wrote in message
... Hmm, I have never thought of, or tried that. I would think it would, since it has a small positive rake, and does not self feed, and would take off only a small amount per step. I'll definitely have to try that out. The other plus is that it can chamfer the edge when the desired diameter is attained. ![]() Rich S. |
#19
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Aircraft Spruce has the fiberoptic dash lights, by fiberlite.... you may not
like the price, but they got em. and a lot more. david www.aircraftspruce.com "Rich S." wrote in message . .. "Morgans" wrote in message ... Hmm, I have never thought of, or tried that. I would think it would, since it has a small positive rake, and does not self feed, and would take off only a small amount per step. I'll definitely have to try that out. The other plus is that it can chamfer the edge when the desired diameter is attained. ![]() Rich S. |
#20
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![]() "David Koehler" wrote in message ... Aircraft Spruce has the fiberoptic dash lights, by fiberlite.... you may not like the price, but they got em. and a lot more. david www.aircraftspruce.com Yes, and while they are neat, we are talking nav. lights. The light levels needed to be displayed are many times greater. -- Jim in NC |
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