Help With Leak Test Results

Sheep castraters, eh? That's well outside my life's experience! What
would be a source of supply for such a thing?

Wings & Wheels doesn't appear to offer anything similar (
http://www.wingsandwheels.com/page23.htm ). I also checked
McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com/ ) by putting o-ring into the
find box at the upper left. It comes up with a page with mind-numbing
information - multiple shapes, multiple sizes, materials, hardness,
etc.

Can you offer any guidance, Ken?

-John

bumper wrote:
Yup, one of my goals in life is to be able to afford to call 'em and have
them ship me 6 of everything . . .

Seriously, placing an order with them is a problem, 'cause there's always
something you should have included in the order but forgot.

When you order the pinch clamps, don't forget to get a roll of UHMW
polyethylene tape. Great for anti-chafe etc. Their number is 76445A12 for
the 1" wide X .0065" X 18 yds.

bumper
"Papa3" wrote in message
oups.com...

http://www.mcmaster.com

I also recommend getting some of their silicone tubing to connect your
instruments. I started using it when some came with my Cambridge vario a
few years ago. It is softer and more flexible the typical clear (but
often colored) plastic tubing and remains that way instead of hardening
over the years. That makes it easy to put it on the instrument, easy to
remove (just pull - no cutting required), and it doesn't need clamps to
prevent leaks.

Because the glider is plumbed in the usual clear tubing, you need to
transition from that to the silicone with a barbed fitting (straight,
tee, or cross, depending on how many things you want to connect to the
particular line). You could use a clamp on the original plastic line
tubing, but because it is never removed, I haven't had any problems with
leaks there.

It costs a bit more, but you can buy it from McMaster-Carr in short
lengths, so the price is not an issue.


--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

www.motorglider.org

In message , Eric Greenwell
writes

I also recommend getting some of their silicone tubing to connect your
instruments. I started using it when some came with my Cambridge vario
a few years ago. It is softer and more flexible the typical clear (but
often colored) plastic tubing and remains that way instead of hardening
over the years. That makes it easy to put it on the instrument, easy to
remove (just pull - no cutting required), and it doesn't need clamps to
prevent leaks.

Because the glider is plumbed in the usual clear tubing, you need to
transition from that to the silicone with a barbed fitting (straight,
tee, or cross, depending on how many things you want to connect to the
particular line). You could use a clamp on the original plastic line
tubing, but because it is never removed, I haven't had any problems
with leaks there.

It costs a bit more, but you can buy it from McMaster-Carr in short
lengths, so the price is not an issue.


I would also recommend putting springs over the silicone pipe if there
is any chance of a sharp bend coming up as it can collapse and
effectively seal the tube.

Robin

--
Robin Birch

jcarlyle wrote:
Sheep castraters, eh? That's well outside my life's experience! What
would be a source of supply for such a thing?

Try a Stock & Station Agent from an American sheep-farming area. Sorry,
but I don't know American for "Stock & Station Agent".

In NZ the rings are called "emasculator rings", but the name may be
different in the US, especially if the PC pests have been at work.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. |
org | Zappa fan & glider pilot

Robin Birch wrote:
In message , Eric Greenwell
writes


I also recommend getting some of their silicone tubing to connect your
instruments. I started using it when some came with my Cambridge vario
a few years ago. It is softer and more flexible the typical clear (but
often colored) plastic tubing and remains that way instead of
hardening over the years. That makes it easy to put it on the
instrument, easy to remove (just pull - no cutting required), and it
doesn't need clamps to prevent leaks.

Because the glider is plumbed in the usual clear tubing, you need to
transition from that to the silicone with a barbed fitting (straight,
tee, or cross, depending on how many things you want to connect to the
particular line). You could use a clamp on the original plastic line
tubing, but because it is never removed, I haven't had any problems
with leaks there.

It costs a bit more, but you can buy it from McMaster-Carr in short
lengths, so the price is not an issue.


I would also recommend putting springs over the silicone pipe if there
is any chance of a sharp bend coming up as it can collapse and
effectively seal the tube.

That doesn't seem necessary with the tubing I have, unless it is quite
sharp; for example, bending the tubing in a "U" that is 1.5" (measured
at the center of the tubing) across doesn't cause a problem. It has a
maximum temperature rating of 500 F, so cockpit temperatures won't be a
problem! The McMaster-Carr label on the bag it came in is says

Vanguard Products
Size: 3/16" (ID) x 5/16" (OD)
Material: translucent, 50 Duro silicone


Other types might be more prone to collapse, but this one seems quite
resistant.

--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

www.motorglider.org

Here is a link that shows both types of clamps. The prices do look a
bit high.

http://www.engineeringfindings.com/cat22/cat22pg130.pdf

The idea of using an O-ring as a seal sounds interesting. I have not
tried it, though.

I did some research on this subject. Turns out that the proprietary
term is "elastrator ring", used with a device called (naturally) an
"elastrator" for castrating calves, goats and lambs. Mostly they are
green in color, but they also come in blue and orange in quantities of
100, 500 and 2000. Apparently there are two materials that they are
made from, with latex "expanding 170% more and gripping tighter" than
whatever the normal material is. I found no information about size; but
since Mike Borgelt has found that they work in our exact application
the question is settled.

In the USA you can find them at at veterinary and farm supply firms,
see ( http://shop.store.yahoo.com/animalme...re/cassup.html ). One
potential problem is that they are so cheap ($1.20 for 100) you might
run into a minimum order size problem if you mail order them.

Warning - if you're squeamish, don't investigate this subject too
thoroughly! There are some graphic pictures of these things in use,
plus painful descriptions of animals reacting to them. There's also
some kinky stuff on human use out there, too. You've been warned!

-John


Martin Gregorie wrote:
jcarlyle wrote:
Sheep castraters, eh? That's well outside my life's experience! What
would be a source of supply for such a thing?

Try a Stock & Station Agent from an American sheep-farming area. Sorry,
but I don't know American for "Stock & Station Agent".

In NZ the rings are called "emasculator rings", but the name may be
different in the US, especially if the PC pests have been at work.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. |
org | Zappa fan & glider pilot

Latex is a questionable material to use when there are much better
alternatives, from McMaster-Carr on latex:

Oil and flame resistance - poor
Weather and oxidation resistance - fair
Ozone resistance - poor

Like Eric, I've been using silicone tubing for the connection to instruments
for years. It retains its elasticity and is excellent in all three
categories; weather, oxidation, and ozone resistance.

Besides the options of using small hose cinch clamps or O-rings (silicon,
viton or EPDM resist weather well), MC also sells "Caps for Caulking
Tube/Glue Bottles. These are like miniature condoms and are designed to
unroll onto the tip of a bottle or applicator. They have great elasticity
(probably strong enough to cinch down even a relatively hard hose) and I
imagine would weather well also. To use them on a hose, one would cut off
the tip and roll them out on the hose, place hose over instrument nipple and
then roll cap back up onto nipple.

MC item number is 7526A11 $4.48 per package of 35 ea.

If you don't like 'em for hoses, you can always use them for sealing
caulking tubes (g).

bumper


"jcarlyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
I did some research on this subject. Turns out that the proprietary
term is "elastrator ring", used with a device called (naturally) an
"elastrator" for castrating calves, goats and lambs. Mostly they are
green in color, but they also come in blue and orange in quantities of
100, 500 and 2000. Apparently there are two materials that they are
made from, with latex "expanding 170% more and gripping tighter" than
whatever the normal material is. I found no information about size; but
since Mike Borgelt has found that they work in our exact application
the question is settled.

In the USA you can find them at at veterinary and farm supply firms,
see ( http://shop.store.yahoo.com/animalme...re/cassup.html ). One
potential problem is that they are so cheap ($1.20 for 100) you might
run into a minimum order size problem if you mail order them.

Warning - if you're squeamish, don't investigate this subject too
thoroughly! There are some graphic pictures of these things in use,
plus painful descriptions of animals reacting to them. There's also
some kinky stuff on human use out there, too. You've been warned!

-John


Martin Gregorie wrote:
jcarlyle wrote:
Sheep castraters, eh? That's well outside my life's experience! What
would be a source of supply for such a thing?

Try a Stock & Station Agent from an American sheep-farming area. Sorry,
but I don't know American for "Stock & Station Agent".

In NZ the rings are called "emasculator rings", but the name may be
different in the US, especially if the PC pests have been at work.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. |
org | Zappa fan & glider pilot

bumper wrote:
Yup, one of my goals in life is to be able to afford to call 'em and have
them ship me 6 of everything . . .

Seriously, placing an order with them is a problem, 'cause there's always
something you should have included in the order but forgot.

When you order the pinch clamps, don't forget to get a roll of UHMW
polyethylene tape. Great for anti-chafe etc. Their number is 76445A12 for
the 1" wide X .0065" X 18 yds.

bumper

My office happens to be about 30 minutes away from their East Coast
warehouse, so I've driven down there on occasion. Talk about a kid in
a candy store - yikes. My wife sees about 2 packages a month from
there between glider fiddling and household projects . She was
beginning to wonder if I'd developed some substance abuse problem, but
all I had to do was mention the glider, and she just shook her head
knowingly.

P3

I'm trying to pin this whole issue down a bit better. Using this web
site ( http://www.mcmaster.com/ ) I found that Eric's translucent, 50
Duro silicone tubing with 3/16" ID and a 5/16" OD is McMaster-Carr P/N
51135K23. It is $0.74 per foot for 10, 20, 50 and 100 foot lengths.

I think O-rings would work better than Bumper's caulking tube clamps,
because I think O-rings will have better quality control. McMaster-Carr
has a mind numbing selection, but specifying 70 Duro silicone rubber
O-rings with a 5/16" ID and a 3/32" width gives McMaster-Carr P/N
9396K74. They are $9.93 for a pack of 100.

What I'm not sure of is the optimal ID and wall thickness. I picked
5/16" OD so they would easily roll over the tubing above, and 3/32"
width because it would be slightly stronger than 1/16" while still not
much more expensive. However, a 1/4" OD with a 1/16" width would surely
hold tighter - but might it distort the tubing to the point of leaking?
I don't know - opinions?

-John