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#11
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On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 07:33:48 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote: "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message .. . This isn't electric; Honda engine ; does that make a diff? = Mike Probably a little, but it is still in the "small compressor" class. Real sandblasting systems are usually run by 4 cylinder or larger engines, and move many times more CFM. They also shoot a lot more blasting media per minute, most likely. If you are really wanting to do a large job, rent one, or hire a sandblasting outfit. You will be ahead on aggravation and time. If you are only going to do small parts and such, take your time, and enjoy! g \love your attitude - Mike |
#12
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On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 13:18:47 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote: Hello Jim - Craftsman 5 HP, 20 gal tank capable of 150 psi but I've only been able to get it to 125. Do you think I'm fooling myself? I know SB takes a lot of air - Mike On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 07:37:10 -0500, "Morgans" wrote: "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message . .. we;;, there goes the planned visit to TSC ![]() I'm wondering if I' m just not using this handheld blaster correctly; sand works but oh, so slow - Mike You using a unit run off of a 3 HP or smaller air compressor? That is just a toy, meant for small parts. Like another poster said, the garnet leaves stress in parts, especially aluminum, so I have heard. you would need 3 of those compressors all joined together with T pieces to get anywhere near continuous air. been there done that. beadblasting the auster fuselage took 6 weeks with 3 compressors. can I suggest that you investigate trailer mounted diesel compressors of the type made by broomewade. you will need to brew up some adapters but the trailer mounted compressor *will* give continuous air at full pressure. your other problem is concerning the air pressure of your compressor. 120psi will see grunge and corrosion removed quite well. 110psi will only remove corrosion if you play the gun over the part continuously. 80psi is a waste of time. my mate ant took my advice and bead blasted his entire sonerai in 1 day and had it painted in that same day. he reported needing to stop to sweep up the ballotini( you use it time and time again) but never needing to stop for air to pump up. Stealth Pilot |
#13
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"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
... This isn't electric; Honda engine ; does that make a diff? = Mike You are more likely to get close to the rated hp in that case. So you probably have about twice the air flow that I have (that's the real number to look at SCFM @90 PSI when you compare compressors). I do small stuff - but as I said - it takes a lot of stop start. One other note - be sure you are wearing good dust protection - lots of law firms like to get a piece of a lawsuit if you can blame someone else for your silicosis... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis -- Geoff The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate. |
#14
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![]() "Stealth Pilot" wrote can I suggest that you investigate trailer mounted diesel compressors of the type made by broomewade. you will need to brew up some adapters but the trailer mounted compressor *will* give continuous air at full pressure. your other problem is concerning the air pressure of your compressor. 120psi will see grunge and corrosion removed quite well. 110psi will only remove corrosion if you play the gun over the part continuously. 80psi is a waste of time. The other part of the equation is the question of what the sandblaster type is, and what the size of the unit is, and the CFM recommendation. If it is a small unit meant for home hobby use, it likely is deficient for larger jobs in several ways. 1) Size of blasting media hopper. Small, too small, most likely. 2) Type of feed from the hopper to the gun. Suction hoppers are usually a pain in the butt, clogging up, not feeding quickly enough. Gravity feed better, pressure feed even better. 3) Size of the gun and nozzle. Small air nozzle and media feed will still only do a very small area, no matter how big the compressor, even so you never have to wait. 4) Nozzle material used in its construction, and how easy (and expensive) the nozzle is to replace. Like someone else said, take care to protect yourself from the dust, and even the dust you shake off as you are taking off the protective equipment. It can do very bad things to you, no doubt. Mike still has not said what he wanted to blast, has he? I wonder how heavy he needs to go? Could be time for a home brew compressor made from an engine running on half of the cylinders, and pumping air with the other cylinders. I've always wanted to do that, but you would have to have quite a bit of use for it planned, to justify the money and effort to make one. I have done the multiple air compressors tied together for painting with a HVLP gun, and it wasn't bad. Waiting sucks, and waiting for air while you are painting and trying to keep a wet line is even worse! That said, the demands of all but the smallest of sandblasters are much higher than a paint gun. -- Jim in NC |
#15
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![]() "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message news ![]() Hello Jim - Craftsman 5 HP, 20 gal tank capable of 150 psi but I've only been able to get it to 125. Do you think I'm fooling myself? I know SB takes a lot of air - Mike Mike, Crapsman is kidding about the 5 HP. A true 5 HP compressor would pull 5000 watts. One horsepower is 746 watts, and the conversion is never 100%! We always figured about a kilowatt of input to get one horsepower output. My 5 HP compressor requires at least a 220 volt circuit and pulls 25 amps at 220 volts. To get 5 HP on 110 volts would require about 50 amps. They measure the current with the motor stalled to get their horsepower numbers. You can't run them that way, they would burn up in minutes! Besides, the breaker will blow. But for a few seconds there, you were pulling 5000 watts in that little compressor! :-) Highflyer Highflight Aviation Services Pinckneyville Airport ( PJY ) |
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