That Schleicher canopy thing again

"Tuno" wrote in message
...
(Unless one expects the terminals on a 4 ohm speaker to test
positive continuity through the speaker.)

Yes, that is exactly what I would expect. (unless I misunderstand your
meaning)

Vaughn

On Jan 10, 12:22*pm, Tuno wrote:
I was doing that while you were typing, but continuity tests of the
wires to the speaker were inconclusive -- I get positive continuity on
both wires on everything behind the panel! Now that just twists my
noodle. (Unless one expects the terminals on a 4 ohm speaker to test
positive continuity through the speaker. Alas, this is not software.)

I hate intermittent problems. Continuity held while doing the canopy
dance and pressing on the harness? I do wonder whether it's a problem
with the connector to the radio. A broken pin will connect and
disconnect with small flexing of the wire applying pressure to the
plug.

Not sure how to test the plug - I guess push a couple of pins into the
speaker wires just outside the plug to see if the speaker voltage goes
to zero right outside the radio or further down the wire.

You could also just order a new glider. ;-)

9B

To check out the wiring first get a wiring drawing for the connector on the
back of the radio.

Disconnect the connector from the rear of the radio.

Test each wire individually between the pin on the connector and its
destination connection ..remember that the speaker is effectively a short
circuit to dc tests so if the test goes across the speaker it will show up
as a short on the multimeter and one side will be signal ground which in a
glider will be the negative terminal of the battery ..and anything else
connected to -ve or ground.

Paul

On Jan 10, 12:23*pm, Tuno wrote:
With the canopy off, tilting the panel up reaches a point where the
speaker engages. Just above this point, with the speaker off, if I
push down very gently on the wire bundle where it can be reached just
fore of where the bundle exits the panel structure, I can make it
toggle on/off. And I mean *very* gently.

All this points to a b0rken wire ... just hard to imagine having two
wires to two places having the same problem on a new glider.

I can tell that the wire bundle at that location gets quite a bit of
stress when the panel is up. Hopefully the factory is tuning into
this ...

2NO

A friend had a 29 new in 2007 that had the same problem with the
radio. Not sure which wire, but stopped transmitting after lass than
10 flights because a wire broke.

The wire between the radio and its speaker is confirmed b0rken
somewhere unreachable. The only option I see is to route a new wire
along the inside cockpit wall. (The wire pair from the speaker through
the cockpit wall is immobile ... no chance of pulling a new one
through.)

If radios and speakers only used blueteeth!

2NO

"Tuno" wrote The only option I see is to route a new
wire
along the inside cockpit wall. (The wire pair from the speaker through
the cockpit wall is immobile ... no chance of pulling a new one
through.)

2NO


Tuno,

You can use the plastic conduit trick to get the wire from behind panel to
the nose of the ship. Then go under the seat panel and remove the gear bay
access panel behind the seat back. There is a wire run cavity at the left
side rear of the cockpit - - though I'm not sure that will help you as it
goes to the compartment just ahead of the engine bay.

Instead, you can run the wires into the gear bay, then up to where you can
go forward into the speaker area. I think (g).

bumper
zz

On Jan 10, 6:10*pm, Tuno wrote:
The only option I see is to route a new wire
along the inside cockpit wall. (The wire pair from the speaker through
the cockpit wall is immobile ... no chance of pulling a new one
through.)

Yup, the imobility is due to the foam fill. I'm pretty sure you can
run under the seat pan and get to the open aft end of the canopy
rail. The speaker wires drop down from the aft end of the canopy
rail into the speaker panel. That would be better than running it in
the cockpit but will take a bit longer to do. (assuming same as my 28
where I used that routing for my boom mic lead)

Andy

On Jan 11, 7:48*am, Andy wrote:
On Jan 10, 6:10*pm, Tuno wrote:

The only option I see is to route a new wire
along the inside cockpit wall. (The wire pair from the speaker through
the cockpit wall is immobile ... no chance of pulling a new one
through.)

Yup, the imobility is due to the foam fill. *I'm pretty sure you can
run under the seat pan and get to the open aft end of the canopy
rail. * The speaker wires drop down from the aft end of the canopy
rail into the speaker panel. *That would be better than running it in
the cockpit but will take a bit longer to do. (assuming same as my 28
where I used that routing for my boom mic lead)

Andy

Lou McDonald had that problem with his near new 29 at Region 9 Parowan
'07 and found that the wiring in the canopy hinge area had a glitch.
That might have been the same issue described by TT. It does sound
like the hinge is common thread.

Good luck and I'll bid a buck more than Darryl,

Bob Caldwell

On Jan 11, 9:12*am, BravoCharlie
wrote:
On Jan 11, 7:48*am, Andy wrote:

On Jan 10, 6:10*pm, Tuno wrote:

The only option I see is to route a new wire
along the inside cockpit wall. (The wire pair from the speaker through
the cockpit wall is immobile ... no chance of pulling a new one
through.)

Yup, the imobility is due to the foam fill. *I'm pretty sure you can
run under the seat pan and get to the open aft end of the canopy
rail. * The speaker wires drop down from the aft end of the canopy
rail into the speaker panel. *That would be better than running it in
the cockpit but will take a bit longer to do. (assuming same as my 28
where I used that routing for my boom mic lead)

Andy

Lou McDonald had that problem with his near new 29 at Region 9 Parowan
'07 and found that the wiring in the canopy hinge area had a glitch.
That might have been the same issue described by TT. *It does sound
like the hinge is common thread.

Good luck and I'll bid a buck more than Darryl,

Bob Caldwell

Well between the water leaking everywhere, random holes drilled in the
cockpit floor and vertical fin area. Bits of odd-sods plumbing in the
tail. A repaired broken tail boom as well right? (I have images in my
mind of the repaired tail leaning over at some odd angle and the CG
being a foot or so aft or where it should). A radio and god knows what
other electronics that don't work very well. The trailer probably
having lots of miles on it's for it's age.... Maybe it's salvageable
for parts. $1 may make the difference.

Darryl