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#1
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Chris OCallaghan wrote:
Owned an A for 17 years. Spun it many times (never inadvertently). If you abuse the controls at stall, it will spin promptly from positive flap positions. The more positive, the more dramatic. However, as long as you use coordinated controls, it handles predictably, though sometimes sluggishly, with a tendency to spiral dive after stall break. The handbook recommends not applying landing flap until on final and clear of last obstruction. Based on experimenting with recovery from spins initiated with flaps in landing, this is a very good practice to maintain. I think my C model prohibited spinning in Landing flap, so I didn't try spinning. Attempts at incipient spins were futile, as it took so much coarse mishandling of the controls to even stall it, I didn't really get to the start of a spin. The negative angle (up about 5 degrees when the flaps were down 40 degrees) of the ailerons in landing flap seemed to give them good authority even as the glider bucked and rocked with lots of back stick. My CG was about 75%, I think. How did your A model respond? It had more Landing flap available than my C model (60 degrees vs 40). -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#2
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Eric,
I don't recall if my A had a prohibition against spinning in landing flap. However, to avoid overspeeding the flaps I would immediately move the flap handle forward after the first half rotation. I had assumed when I bought the glider that the upturned ailerons in landing flap position would prevent dramatic autorotation, but this wasn't the case. I think the 20 developed a bad reputation because pilots were setting the landing flaps on downwind rather than waiting until final approach. The 20 definitely handles less pleasantly, especially in turns and turbulence with the landing flaps down. With full flaps on the A, the nose angle at stall was below the horizon. Just another thing to get used to. I have to say I think George T. went a little overboard in charcaterizing the 20 as a dangerous glider. Like all fast glass, it requires additional energy management skills and a respect for the altitude it will need to recover if abused. I see it as no less safe or dangerous than a Discus. Perhaps more complex, but that's a training issue. That's not nostalgia talking. I prefer newer gliders... they are better harmonized, easier to put together, climb and glide better. But the 20 (2nd gen) has the same management issues as third generation flapped ships (V2, ASW-27) and newer gliders are no less disposed to bite their masters if mishandled. There's nothing inherent in the glider that would presdispose it to accidents. But like all fast glass, it will accentuate pilot ignorance. As for George's complaints against manual control hookups, well, this is a fact of life. I would guess that 3/4 of all ships in service have manual hookups. Again, a training issue. Pilots who follow the manufactures' assembly instructions and best practices (double inspection, critical assembly check, positive control check) don't have problems. Control failures can almost always be traced back to poor maintenance or a mistake in the assembly and inspection sequence. There are some inherently poor designs, but the 20's hotellier fittings are not among them. And after market safety devices are available to address their known weaknesses (or more correctly, weakness in the assembler). Are automatic control hookups better...? You bet! But that doesn't make manual hookups inherently unsafe. They simply require more attention. |
#4
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This comment is not quite on point - but relevant. I met a pilot yesterday
who flew B-26s during WWII. He mentioned that the B-26 had a reputation for killing pilots during training. In particular, the pilots were afraid of an engine out on takeoff causing a spin. Vice President Truman heard these stories and considered the B-26 a financial waste, so he sent Jimmy Doolittle down to test the characteristics of the plane. Doolittle spoke with the pilots, read the operations manual, then flew the airplane. He then assembled the cadets and brought along one of the instructors as a check pilot. On the first takeoff, he pulled an engine, then did a 360 degree turn and landed safely. On the next takeoff, he pulled the other engine, then did a 360 and returned to land safely. He then assembled the cadets and stated that he had flown the aircraft and when the engine was shut down during takeoff, he flew it exactly like the operations manual directed. His conclusion was that there was nothing wrong with the airplane, but that the pilots had not been trained properly. What is important is to understand the characteristics of the aircraft and give great deference to the operations manual - unless you are smarter than the guy who wrote it. Colin --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.713 / Virus Database: 469 - Release Date: 6/30/04 |
#5
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Very thoughtful of Andreas to put this together. Based on 17+ years
and 2000 hours in a 20, I would add only the following thoughts... You may move the flap handle from position 2 to position 4 on take off as soon as the pass the start point of the tow plane. This is where wings typically drop, in the wake turbulence as you enter it at low speed. Once past it, you will find plenty of control authority. I prefer flap position 4 since it lowers the nose, allowing a much improved view of the tow rope. When thermalling, use flap position 4, or drill a hole between positions 3 and 4 if you want less drag. If you need to shift your circle or correct for gusts, move the flap handle to 3 as you make aileron inputs. This will give you a better roll rate. As soon as you have established the desired angle of bank, pop the handle back into positive (3.5 or 4). Martin Gregorie wrote in message . .. On 4 Jul 2004 17:54:39 -0700, (Ventus B) wrote: I have been considering buying an ASW20, ASW20B, or ASW20C. I knew they were champions in their day and still have a lot of admirers. However a few folks from my club say they have some nasty spin characteristics. Specifically, that they have a tendancy to not only immediately spin when stalled, but will go inverted as they spin. Can anyone eloborate or corroborate? I normally only hear good things about the 20. Respectfully, Assuming you haven't seen the handbook yet, the following may answer some of your questions: http://www.gregorie.org/gliding/asw2..._handling.html It was written by Andreas Maurer for a pilot who was converting from a Pegasus: in fact the guy I bought my '20 from. I've found it very useful, especially as I, too, was converting from a Pegasus. IMO it tells you most of what you need to know about the '20 that isn't in the flight manual. |
#6
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Chris OCallaghan wrote:
.... When thermalling, use flap position 4, or drill a hole between positions 3 and 4 if you want less drag. Thank you, Chris. My 20B had a 3.5 hole drilled when we bought it but I had no advice on its purpose or use. I was puzzled when I couldn't relate the Flight Manual descriptions to what my glider had. Eventually I worked it out. I would be interested in any advice anyone can give on the use of 3.5. I tend to use it for nearly all thermalling and only use 4 for landing. Am I right? Is a 3.5 hole common? Did Schleicher's get it wrong? GC |
#7
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On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:36:28 +1000, Graeme Cant
wrote: Thank you, Chris. My 20B had a 3.5 hole drilled when we bought it but I had no advice on its purpose or use. I was puzzled when I couldn't relate the Flight Manual descriptions to what my glider had. Eventually I worked it out. I would be interested in any advice anyone can give on the use of 3.5. I tend to use it for nearly all thermalling and only use 4 for landing. Am I right? Is a 3.5 hole common? Did Schleicher's get it wrong? It depends what you use 4 for: For thermalling at normal bank angles (20-30 degrees) 3 is the better setting (the 20 converst excessive speed into height a lot better in 3 than in 4), but very tight turns combined with high wing loading (or forward CG) need 4. Many 20 owners drilled the 3.5 hole, but I have to admit that I tested this setting and I never felt 3.5 to be an advantage over 3 (I hold the flap handle at 3.5 before I decided not to drill a hole there). At 3 the nose is significantly higher than in 3.5, but I think the 20's airfoil loves high AoA's. If the AoA of the 20 is too low (in other words: Flap setting too positive for current airspeed/g-load combination), the drag rise is drastic - very easy to feel the deceleration. One more thing why I love the 20: The flap handle tells you which position it wants to be in - it moves itself into the optimum position (if you help it overcome the friction with your hand). Bye Andreas |
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#9
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Andy Durbin wrote:
(Ventus B) wrote in message . com... I have been considering buying an ASW20, ASW20B, or ASW20C. I knew they were champions in their day and still have a lot of admirers. However a few folks from my club say they have some nasty spin characteristics. Specifically, that they have a tendancy to not only immediately spin when stalled, but will go inverted as they spin. Can anyone eloborate or corroborate? I normally only hear good things about the 20. Respectfully, Just catching up with this thread and no-one seems to have mentioned the effect of the flexible wings. I don't have experience in the 20 but I do have a series of photos of a fatal accident that started with a contest finish pull-up and quickly ended up in a spinning impact with the ground. I believe that the increased angle attack caused by the wings returning to normal deflection contributed to the accident. Boy, does this sound highly speculative! How did you conclude it was the wings, rather than the obvious possiblities, like: -pilot pulls too hard and stalls glider -glider hits thermal/gust that stalls a wing -pilot gets too slow, then skids turn or uses abrupt aileron input ? -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#10
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