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On Jan 8, 12:34*pm, " wrote: What IS needed are aluminum head-castings having twice as much fin- area as what's presently available. ------------------------------------------------------------------ We need a CASTING because we need the DRAFT that goes with it. Come up with a set of fins that leaves a clean impression in our casting media and we'll automatically get a set of fins that does a dandy job of coupling heat to air being forced down through, over, passed an' whatever THROUGH those fins. Now all we gotta do is come up with ENOUGH of those fins... as determined by their area... to deal with the anticipated amount of HEAT and we're on the road to Rio. Or where-ever. -R.S.Hoover |
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....an' finally...
I gotta memory chip in my hand here that sez 'T2,' meaning it's got mostly Teenie Two drawings on it. It is a two gigabyte chip, which means it can't be ALL T2 stuff. Sure enough, one of the folders sez 'Engine.' Pull that up and there's about a dozen sub-files, one of which is 'HEADS.' Pull THAT up and you got fifty drawings of VW cylinder heads, a lot of which is bumpf... three nearly identical drawings of the same thing representing sequential SAVE's so as not to lose anything as I work on the drawing(s) (...which is a pretty boring way to pass the day.... but a royal ****er to spend a whole day doing a drawing only to LOSE the sonofabitch because I hit the wrong button or whatever, hence lotsa copies of... whatever). So why mention it? Because others may find some of the drawings of interest. So provide me with a VALID address and I'll sendm' to you, gratis. -R.S.Hoover |
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![]() what else??? Stealth Pilot As VeeDubber has pointed out the heads are the limiting factor for HP. The VW has other problems but workarounds for them have been found, even if they are inelegant ones. I've looked at and sawed up more VW heads, and sketched out more ways to improve them, than a sane person would be willing to admit to in public. If one insists on dual plugs and a true improvement (other than just more cooling capacity) then I haven't been able to come up with a solution - unless one also moves the camshaft and spaces the lobes out to match the bore spacing. This requires a new crankcase as well. Doing this opens up MANY options using inexpensive off the shelf parts. I'm thinking a split head, like Scat makes, but following the layout of a Porsche 356 might be a good starting point? Oil-cooled VW heads are an option I have not heard anyone talk about for aircraft use. I've not done any math related to this option but it seems to be a viable one. Anyone actually tried the methods used by Porsche tuners on a VW? ======================== Leon McAtee |
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On Jan 8, 12:37*pm, Stealth Pilot
wrote: veedubber and others the venerable old VW engine conversion is quite usable. if you were to take all the lessons learnt from all the engine building done so far and apply them to a new engine design, what would the new engine design look like? A Subaru? |
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Monk wrote:
On Jan 8, 12:37 pm, Stealth Pilot wrote: veedubber and others the venerable old VW engine conversion is quite usable. if you were to take all the lessons learnt from all the engine building done so far and apply them to a new engine design, what would the new engine design look like? A Subaru? We had one running direct drive - at 40 to 50 hp. But to use the full potential it needs a proper PSRU - along with all the extra weight that implies. (Ever try to prop a motor with a PSRU on it?_ |
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On Jan 8, 3:56*pm, Monk wrote:
A Subaru? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not bad. But it's going to come down to the Bottom Line. And in that regard, the individual heads are the winners. Why? Because we can do the machining ourselves. First off, we can forget about lost-foam or anything more exotic than green-sand, simply because there aren't enough of us. So we stick to standard, readily available valves, valve guides, valve seats and studs. The fins make the castings pretty tricky but if it was easy you would have seen it years ago. There's a couple of directions we can't go but if we borrow a page from the Corvair we can position our exhaust stack just about anywhere and still have a good seal. Most of us have MIG, which means we can do the stack-extensions. And since it's a new casting we can provide the boss for the hold-down bolt. Here again, borrow a page from the Corvair (or from GM) and we end up with a 'rocker arm' that actually works. The tricky bit is that it does NOT need to be aligned on a shaft... we can literally put a valve anywhere there is room. And that means at any angle as well. Domed or hemi-shaped chamber won't buy us anything. I'm pretty sure of that, based on some work I did in that area about 30 years ago. But that's actually to our advantage. By keeping the combustion chamber simple we keep our valve-train geometry simple. AND YES, we run juicers. Exhaust outlet to the stack is probably a rectangle, as with the Porsche. We put the wiggles into the exhaust stacks, which we make out of Monel or whatever, secured with that bolt we stole from the Corvair. So we make a L-head and an R-head; mirror images. We do the best we can with the fins but recognize our limitations and leave the most difficult of them as CUT fins: Rather than try to cast perfect fins in a couple of high-risk areas, we settle for a quarter-inch bar of aluminum that's configured for easy SAWING, which we do as part of the flash clean-up. -R.S.Hoover |
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![]() wrote in message ... On Jan 8, 3:56 pm, Monk wrote: A Subaru? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off, we can forget about lost-foam or anything more exotic than green-sand, simply because there aren't enough of us. So we stick to standard, readily available valves, valve guides, valve seats and studs. The fins make the castings pretty tricky but if it was easy you would have seen it years ago. So we make a L-head and an R-head; mirror images. We do the best we can with the fins but recognize our limitations and leave the most difficult of them as CUT fins: Rather than try to cast perfect fins in a couple of high-risk areas, we settle for a quarter-inch bar of aluminum that's configured for easy SAWING, which we do as part of the flash clean-up. -R.S.Hoover ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I've alway thought it would be more practical to CNC saw all the cooling fins. Seems a bit extreme at first glance, but if you go to the time or expense to fabricate patterns to cast the heads, we must be talk about doing more than just a couple of sets. So the programming cost might well be worth the cooling efficency of extremely detailed cooling fins. |
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On Jan 8, 10:30*pm, "Maxwell" #$$9#@%%%.^^^ wrote:
wrote in message ... On Jan 8, 3:56 pm, Monk wrote: A Subaru? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off, we can forget about lost-foam or anything more exotic than green-sand, simply because there aren't enough of us. *So we stick to standard, readily available valves, valve guides, valve seats and studs. *The fins make the castings pretty tricky but if it was easy you would have seen it years ago. So we make a L-head and an R-head; mirror images. *We do the best we can with the fins but recognize our limitations and leave the most difficult of them as CUT fins: Rather than try to cast perfect fins in a couple of high-risk areas, we settle for a quarter-inch bar of aluminum that's configured for easy SAWING, which we do as part of the flash clean-up. -R.S.Hoover ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I've alway thought it would be more practical to CNC saw all the cooling fins. Seems a bit extreme at first glance, but if you go to the time or expense to fabricate patterns to cast the heads, we must be talk about doing more than just a couple of sets. So the programming cost might well be worth the cooling efficency of extremely detailed cooling fins. I disagree, sand casting would be easier than milling from solid block. Just sculpt your head out of wax cover with sand and pour your casting. A little grinding here and there and there you have it. OK, not that simplistic, but you get the gist. |
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