Bothersome Phillips Head Screws

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 11:41:58 GMT, "Eric Miller"
wrote:


I just trailered my Dragonfly home and a kindly stranger lent me some
Aero
Kroil to remove the exhaust nuts... best stuff I've ever used!

Eric
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Welcome to the 'Kroil Club', Eric. g

Barnyard BOb --



I'm a convert. The "Kroil Club"... users check in, but don't they check out!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Here's another slogan....

USERS SUCK TO GET MOUSE MILK.

)



Barnyard BOb -

Roger

They make a bit that is for a slotted head screw and has a spring
loaded sleave that goes down over the screw driver blade. This helps
hold the screw in the screw driver blade.

Not sure where I got mine but ask around at a tool place and you can
probably find. Might work for you?

I use mine in a hand screw driver that I can use different bits in and
also in my electric drill.

Big John
Pilot ROCAF


On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 00:46:40 GMT, Roger Halstead
wrote:

On 06 Jan 2004 20:42:52 GMT,
(Wright1902Glider) wrote:

Gives me an entirely new respect for common slot-headed screws. I'm limited to
using them on my Wright machine (no Phillips in 1902.) I've found that with a
good screwdriver, they hold a lot more torque. However, they absolutely suck
when used with a cordless drill. Use the tool that matches the technology I
guess. BTW, try removing #6 zinc screws from seasoned white ash lumber
sometime. FUN!

LOL
When disassembling Jack's old Barracuda (which is made of wood) there
are hundreds and hundreds of screws. There are slotted head and
phillips head. I learned early on that the "old technology" ( hand
held screwdriver) was about the only way to remove those slotted head
screws. I could not for the life of me, keep a bit in those slotted
heads. It would just start to back out and there I was with the bit
walking across the fire wall, wing, or what ever and that was with the
thing in low gear.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
Harry

RU ok

Just ask Jay. Go to any corn crib in Iowa and you will find plenty of
mice to provide your milk.

Big John
Pilot ROCAF


On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 06:48:07 -0600, RU ok wrote:

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 11:41:58 GMT, "Eric Miller"
wrote:


I just trailered my Dragonfly home and a kindly stranger lent me some
Aero
Kroil to remove the exhaust nuts... best stuff I've ever used!

Eric
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Welcome to the 'Kroil Club', Eric. g

Barnyard BOb --



I'm a convert. The "Kroil Club"... users check in, but don't they check out!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Here's another slogan....

USERS SUCK TO GET MOUSE MILK.

)



Barnyard BOb -

I see from the website that they sell mail order primarily. Does anybody know
if there is a local outlet for the stuff? I tried the usual aviation supply
houses (K-Mart, Kragen, True Value, etc.) and couldn't find any on the shelf.

Jim




(m alexander)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com
-
-Works much better than WD-40



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

"Jim Weir" wrote in message
...

I see from the website that they sell mail order primarily. Does anybody
know
if there is a local outlet for the stuff? I tried the usual aviation
supply
houses (K-Mart, Kragen, True Value, etc.) and couldn't find any on the
shelf.

Jim

I did a Google search and found a few places that sell it (the last two are
shooting supply houses, which I found surprising):

http://www.eastwoodco.com/
http://www.midwayusa.com/
http://www.brunoshooters.com/

Haven't had any experience with any of them

Eric

From: "Eric Miller"
Date: 1/8/2004 12:05 PM Central Standard Time
Message-id: t

"Jim Weir" wrote in message
.. .

I see from the website that they sell mail order primarily. Does anybody
know
if there is a local outlet for the stuff? I tried the usual aviation
supply
houses (K-Mart, Kragen, True Value, etc.) and couldn't find any on the
shelf.

Jim

I did a Google search and found a few places that sell it (the last two are
shooting supply houses, which I found surprising):

http://www.eastwoodco.com/
http://www.midwayusa.com/
http://www.brunoshooters.com/

Haven't had any experience with any of them

Eric

As a gunsmith let me tell you some gun owners are extremely lazy about caring
for their firearms. Shotgun and 22 owners are the worst followed by the guy who
only keeps the gun because it belonged to grandpa. Most of the "repairs" I have
done on those types are due to not cleaning and/or not rustproofing.

Kroil comes in handy when someone brings in his great grandfather's 30-40 Krag
with the bolt rusted shut and would I be so kind as to make it shootable? Don't
mind the mudwasp nest in the barrel. Yes, I have actually had such a case.

For what it's worth I keep a small can of Kroil I can dunk parts in. It's a
great way to get parts separated.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

From: "Eric Miller"
Date: 1/8/2004 5:41 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: t


"RU ok" wrote in message
.. .

I just trailered my Dragonfly home and a kindly stranger lent me some
Aero
Kroil to remove the exhaust nuts... best stuff I've ever used!

Eric
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Welcome to the 'Kroil Club', Eric. g

Barnyard BOb --

I'm a convert. The "Kroil Club"... users check in, but don't they check out!



"Dan Thomas" wrote in message
I use Mouse Milk. Dandy stuff, and works well on throttle/turbo
waste gate linkages where there's a lot of heat. Expensive, though.
Have to milk a lot of mice to get even a small bottle...

Dan

Reminds me of an old joke....

A cannibal goes into a meat market to buy some brains.
They sell passengers' brains for $5/pound.
They sell pilots' brains for $10/pound.
And they have homebuilders' brains for $1,000/pound.
They cannibal says to the butcher, "Why are homebulders brains so expensive?
They must really be smart!"
The butcher says, "Are you kidding? Do you have any idea how many
homebuilders it takes to scrape together one pound of brains?!?"

Eric :-)


Have you ever seen the cartoons where the cannibals are cooking missionaries in
huge pots? They are incorrect in doing that. They are Franciscan Monks and are
thus friars.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Most of the "repairs" I have
done on those types are due to not cleaning and/or not rustproofing.


Horribly off-topic, but I know you experts will have this answer too: my
teenage boy spends his allowance on great fake swords that he just adores. I
hesitate to criticize the dreadful workmanship (handles and hilts tend to fall
off) because they're within his budget, but at least they're not chrome-plated.
He's gone through sandpaper and steel wool to polish them (hey, it keeps him
off the streets) and now is on a quest to find something called Naval Jelly.
Apparently it's for polishing metal to a very fine finish. Any ideas where I
can get him some?

On 09 Jan 2004 04:23:49 GMT, (StellaStar) wrote:

Most of the "repairs" I have
done on those types are due to not cleaning and/or not rustproofing.


Horribly off-topic, but I know you experts will have this answer too: my
teenage boy spends his allowance on great fake swords that he just adores. I
hesitate to criticize the dreadful workmanship (handles and hilts tend to fall
off) because they're within his budget, but at least they're not chrome-plated.
He's gone through sandpaper and steel wool to polish them (hey, it keeps him
off the streets) and now is on a quest to find something called Naval Jelly.
Apparently it's for polishing metal to a very fine finish. Any ideas where I
can get him some?

Here's what is is:
http://www.shorechemical.com/Section...aval_jelly.htm

And you can get it at any hardware store, paint store, Home Depot,
Lowes, and I think they even sell it at Wal-Mart.

HTH
Mike
Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.

There is even worse than Phillips used in aerospace. An evil thing called a
Tri-Wing. It has three offset points so that there is more reverse contact
area than tighten so supposedly you can't strip it by tightening enough to
prevent removal. Problem is they are very shallow and fill with paint
easily and need to have the screwdriver very straight. Most airline
operators replace them with Phillips NAS screws in the field. There is less
choice with aerospace standard screws since holes that provide a nice deep
staight wall socket like allen, robertson and torx make it harder to give a
low profile or countersunk screw the required strength. Never seen an MS or
NAS torx or robertson.

There is another aerospace screw like a tri wing but with 4 offset points
and a deeper narrower slot that works pretty good. Forget what it's called.

John

"Larry Smith" wrote in message
...
Doing a little work on old Cessnas for fun these days and have to tell you
I
don't like Phillips head screws. The slightest corrosion and they stick
and freeze. Then your Snap-On screwdriver (make sure it fits) wallows
the
head out, as you grunt and cuss. Then you have to pull out the old die
grinder and disc a groove in the dam* thing and go pull out your common
screwdriver. Last night taking off a set of wheelpants where corrosion
thrives, I had screw after screw frozen up and had to pull the compressor
out on the ramp several times --- cause it had to go back to the shop for
a
recharge.

Time to go to Allen screws. Yes. The entire Phillips head screw
population is held in contempt. They ought to be banned.