Cleaning Spark Plugs is a Simple Job...

He's trying to dazzle you with the brilliance that he knows to set the
torque wrench back to "zero" when you put it away. This relieves tension
on the internal spring, thus not wearing it out. (hope you did this)

Well, nope, I sure didn't.

But I'll do it tomorrow when I'm at the hangar...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Jay Honeck wrote:

But I'll do it tomorrow when I'm at the hangar...

Too late, you've ruined it!


(just kidding) :-)

George Patterson
Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to
use the Internet and he won't bother you for weeks.

In article NwoZe.161520$084.66032@attbi_s22,
"Jay Honeck" wrote:

When you finished, did you "properly" store the torque wrench?
(Just a test to see if you read the instructions that came with the
tool.)

Um, well, I very carefully put it back in the cheap plastic case it came in,
and wrapped the directions around the handle.

Was there more to it?


Yup. You are supposed to reset the torque setting to zero when you put
the wrench away. Otherwise, the torque wrench can acquire a set and lose
calibration -- usually it will click early, or a a lower than designated
torque.

When you finished, did you "properly" store the torque wrench?
(Just a test to see if you read the instructions that came with the
tool.)

Um, well, I very carefully put it back in the cheap plastic case it came in,
and wrapped the directions around the handle.
Was there more to it?

You are supposed to release the setting/set it to zero/whatever it is
called, to take the pressure/stress/strain/whatever off the torque break
mechanism.

Releasing the tension on the torque wrench's spring maintains its
accuracy, but most torque wrenches aren't very accurate when new,
especially cheap imported ones. Standard practice as per AC43.13 (and
required by aircraft maintenance law, at least in Canada) is to have it
calibrated when new, and then every year or two depending on use. It
can cost more to calibrate the thing than it cost to buy it, which is
why they're so inaccurate when boxed at the factory.

Dan

wrote:
Releasing the which is
why they're so inaccurate when boxed at the factory.

Dan

Which is why I prefer bending beam type torque wrenches. At least the
stiffness of steel won't change with time. If it returns to zero, it
should be OK to use again. With the detent/click type, you never know,
although I don't see where returning them to zero will reduce any
internal plastic deformation. Steel doesn't creep at normal
temperatures.


One minor additional thing - Occasionally also clean the sparkplug
helicoil threads in the cylinder. Somewhere (a surplus tore as I
recall) I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could
be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded
hole to clean the crud out of the threads.

OMG Jay that was one awsome read!! I had a smile on my face the whole time I
was reading it (all except the first part about the rough running engine) I
know cause I like to work on my own cars and trucks, And my wife is now
finally starting to accept the idea that she should get her hands dirty too!


One day when I finally get my PPL and can own a plane I would love to get
the tools out and tinker! I think I'll get the wife out to help too! :O


"Jay Honeck" wrote in message
news:SjLYe.157590$084.124008@attbi_s22...