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#61
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Even then, without proper insulation you can still get corrosion. I no
longer leave mine plugged in 24/7 (I have Reiff cylinder and oil pad heaters), because before my recent overhaul my mechanic noted that the front cams were badly spalled and had sigificant corrosion where the rear ones looked nearly new. The most likely explanation was the uninsulated prop acting as a heat sink on the front end of the engine providing for a heavier condensation density near the front of the engine. Reiff's article does say to use a cover, but they fail to mention also insulating the prop. Tom Sixkiller wrote: Leaving heat on the engine all the time may set you up for condensation rusting - depends on the details... Yes...unless you use both a cylinder AND an oil sump heater. http://www.reiffpreheat.com/FAQ.htm#QA3 -- --Ray Andraka, P.E. President, the Andraka Consulting Group, Inc. 401/884-7930 Fax 401/884-7950 http://www.andraka.com "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -Benjamin Franklin, 1759 |
#62
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On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 03:26:14 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller"
wrote: It is, apparently. It also must be "customized" to the particular engine. Right now it looks like $2300-$3000 or so for the Tanis system, or $675 for the Reiff system for the bird I'm looking at. Wow. When I installed my TANIS, with the heated bolts, it was less expensive than your Reiff quote. What kind of bird? Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA) |
#63
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"Ron Rosenfeld" wrote in message ... On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 03:26:14 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller" wrote: It is, apparently. It also must be "customized" to the particular engine. Right now it looks like $2300-$3000 or so for the Tanis system, or $675 for the Reiff system for the bird I'm looking at. Wow. When I installed my TANIS, with the heated bolts, it was less expensive than your Reiff quote. What all came with your system? I once got some numbers from the tanis website, but can't find them now. I do recall that it was expensive. The Reiff system is their top of the line with all the goodies. I like the Reiff design better from what I see, so if someone can tell me why Tanis is better, I'd appreciate it. What kind of bird? F33A with IO-550 upgrade. Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA) |
#64
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On Wed, 25 Feb 2004 08:48:50 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller"
wrote: "Ron Rosenfeld" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 03:26:14 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller" wrote: It is, apparently. It also must be "customized" to the particular engine. Right now it looks like $2300-$3000 or so for the Tanis system, or $675 for the Reiff system for the bird I'm looking at. Wow. When I installed my TANIS, with the heated bolts, it was less expensive than your Reiff quote. What all came with your system? I once got some numbers from the tanis website, but can't find them now. I do recall that it was expensive. The Reiff system is their top of the line with all the goodies. I like the Reiff design better from what I see, so if someone can tell me why Tanis is better, I'd appreciate it. What kind of bird? F33A with IO-550 upgrade. Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA) Well you've got six cylinders vs my four. My TANIS system included four heated cylinder bolts, a heated oil screen, a plug for the AC, and all the necessary cabling. My AC plug is wrapped to the oil filler tube -- a plug mounted on a plate is available. The cost was under $600. But that was a few years back. Not being an engineer, I can't discuss which is better, or even if one is better than the other. Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA) |
#65
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Tom Sixkiller wrote: What kind of bird? F33A with IO-550 upgrade. Ya put two glue on oil sump heater pads on that 550, wrap the whole thing in a Kennon cowl cover and your pre heat problems are solved. If I have to park outside they both get plugged in, if I'm in my hangar then just one. After a few hours the oil is at 100F and each and every CHT and EGT is 80F. All for less than half of that Tanis and Reiff crap. Plus have you seen what all those cords look like under the cowl after a few years of use? You will be replacing, splicing, etc. They're always in the way when it comes to maintenence thereby costing you more money. |
#66
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I agree, all you need is the heat pad. But you can't leave it plugged
in all the time, you have to plug it in a few hours before the flight. Newps wrote in message news:XUa%b.59118$4o.77556@attbi_s52... Tom Sixkiller wrote: What kind of bird? F33A with IO-550 upgrade. Ya put two glue on oil sump heater pads on that 550, wrap the whole thing in a Kennon cowl cover and your pre heat problems are solved. If I have to park outside they both get plugged in, if I'm in my hangar then just one. After a few hours the oil is at 100F and each and every CHT and EGT is 80F. All for less than half of that Tanis and Reiff crap. Plus have you seen what all those cords look like under the cowl after a few years of use? You will be replacing, splicing, etc. They're always in the way when it comes to maintenence thereby costing you more money. |
#67
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After I put the plane away the nose mitten goes on and the cord gets
plugged in, assuming the temp won't be over 45 before I fly again. Doug wrote: I agree, all you need is the heat pad. But you can't leave it plugged in all the time, you have to plug it in a few hours before the flight. Newps wrote in message news:XUa%b.59118$4o.77556@attbi_s52... Tom Sixkiller wrote: What kind of bird? F33A with IO-550 upgrade. Ya put two glue on oil sump heater pads on that 550, wrap the whole thing in a Kennon cowl cover and your pre heat problems are solved. If I have to park outside they both get plugged in, if I'm in my hangar then just one. After a few hours the oil is at 100F and each and every CHT and EGT is 80F. All for less than half of that Tanis and Reiff crap. Plus have you seen what all those cords look like under the cowl after a few years of use? You will be replacing, splicing, etc. They're always in the way when it comes to maintenence thereby costing you more money. |
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