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#11
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Post Curing Composites
On Monday, December 31, 2018 at 2:45:51 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I am looking for some advise regarding "Post Curing of Epoxy Composites". The sailplane composite repairs have been completed regarding my salvaged ASW-27. The tail boom has a new 3'long intermediate section that has been scarfed and glassed into position. The fuselage pod had some radial cracks and the seat pan had some fractures that were all scarfed and glassed. All of the composite repairs were done at room temperature using OEM materials and MGS epoxy. What temperature is recommended and for what duration should I be using for post curing the repaired areas. Is there a temperature ramp up and ramp down time that I need to work with. I plan to build a foam insulation box around the repair areas and use a fan with a number of light bulbs to regulate the temperature. Any advise is greatly appreciated, Thanks, Chris Thanks for all of the assistance and advice. This is such a great group with experienced an knowledgeable contributors. Much appreciated, Chris |
#12
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Post Curing Composites
On Thursday, January 3, 2019 at 11:05:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, December 31, 2018 at 2:45:51 PM UTC-6, wrote: I am looking for some advise regarding "Post Curing of Epoxy Composites". The sailplane composite repairs have been completed regarding my salvaged ASW-27. The tail boom has a new 3'long intermediate section that has been scarfed and glassed into position. The fuselage pod had some radial cracks and the seat pan had some fractures that were all scarfed and glassed. All of the composite repairs were done at room temperature using OEM materials and MGS epoxy. What temperature is recommended and for what duration should I be using for post curing the repaired areas. Is there a temperature ramp up and ramp down time that I need to work with. I plan to build a foam insulation box around the repair areas and use a fan with a number of light bulbs to regulate the temperature. Any advise is greatly appreciated, Thanks, Chris Thanks for all of the assistance and advice. This is such a great group with experienced an knowledgeable contributors. Much appreciated, Chris My response assumed that you are using the MGS system the glider was built with and specified in the repair manual. That is where my info previously came from. This task is not rocket science and does not require much technology. For the area of your tail boom repair a closed box of foam insulation or even a cardboard box will do fine. Make sure there is a good amount of space between the enclosure and the structure. For that size you can get enough heating with three 100 watt light bulbs if you put a few blankets around the box. Adjust the temperature by adding or removing a bit of insulation. You do need a reliable temperature measuring tool. I use a thermocouple on a meter but a simple calibrated oven thermometer pushed into the box will do in a pinch. Make sure it is remote from the heat source. I put the lights in the bottom at least 8 inches from the part, with a shield to avoid direct exposure. It will take about 3 hours or so to come to equilibrium. Gentle heating makes for an easily controlled system. Curing for longer allows soak and does no harm. UH |
#13
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Post Curing Composites
On Friday, January 4, 2019 at 8:02:31 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Thursday, January 3, 2019 at 11:05:08 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Monday, December 31, 2018 at 2:45:51 PM UTC-6, wrote: I am looking for some advise regarding "Post Curing of Epoxy Composites". The sailplane composite repairs have been completed regarding my salvaged ASW-27. The tail boom has a new 3'long intermediate section that has been scarfed and glassed into position. The fuselage pod had some radial cracks and the seat pan had some fractures that were all scarfed and glassed.. All of the composite repairs were done at room temperature using OEM materials and MGS epoxy. What temperature is recommended and for what duration should I be using for post curing the repaired areas. Is there a temperature ramp up and ramp down time that I need to work with. I plan to build a foam insulation box around the repair areas and use a fan with a number of light bulbs to regulate the temperature. Any advise is greatly appreciated, Thanks, Chris Thanks for all of the assistance and advice. This is such a great group with experienced an knowledgeable contributors. Much appreciated, Chris My response assumed that you are using the MGS system the glider was built with and specified in the repair manual. That is where my info previously came from. This task is not rocket science and does not require much technology. For the area of your tail boom repair a closed box of foam insulation or even a cardboard box will do fine. Make sure there is a good amount of space between the enclosure and the structure. For that size you can get enough heating with three 100 watt light bulbs if you put a few blankets around the box. Adjust the temperature by adding or removing a bit of insulation. You do need a reliable temperature measuring tool. I use a thermocouple on a meter but a simple calibrated oven thermometer pushed into the box will do in a pinch. Make sure it is remote from the heat source. I put the lights in the bottom at least 8 inches from the part, with a shield to avoid direct exposure. It will take about 3 hours or so to come to equilibrium. Gentle heating makes for an easily controlled system. Curing for longer allows soak and does no harm. UH Thanks Hank, Your details really help out. Much appreciated, Chris |
#14
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Post Curing Composites
Here's a temperature controller and probe for $30, and a version of the same for $15 if you can scrounge up your own cords:
https://smile.amazon.com/Inkbird-Ele...ure+controller https://smile.amazon.com/gp/slredire...getName=sp_atf |
#15
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Post Curing Composites
Jim Marske's advice is to limit the T rise to about 1 deg F per minute, so I interpret that as every 5 min or so raise the temperature by 5 degrees.
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#16
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Post Curing Composites
At 21:43 08 January 2019, Bret Hess wrote:
Here's a temperature controller and probe for $30, and a version of the sa= me for $15 if you can scrounge up your own cords: https://smile.amazon.com/Inkbird-Ele...c-Temperature- Germination-Control= ling/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=3Dsr_1_4? ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1546983554&sr=3D8-4&keyword= s=3Dinkbird+temperature+controller https://smile.amazon.com/gp/slredire...rect.html/ref= 3Dpa_sp_atf= _aps_sr_pg1_2? ie=3DUTF8&adId=3DA02927671UI46I5AKTV1Y&url=3Dhttps %3A% 2F%2Fsm= ile.amazon.com%2FInkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller- ITC-1000%2Fdp%2= FB00OXPE8U6%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid %3 D1546983554%26sr%3D8-2-s= pons%26keywords%3Dinkbird%2Btemperature%2Bcontrol ler%26 psc%3D1&qualifier=3D= 1546983553&id=3D6639836400413390&widgetName=3Dsp_ atf This is the temperature controller I use for £7.42 inc postage! Works very well: AC 90V-250V MH1210W Digital Temperature Controller screen H2M6 can be found at: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-90V-250V-MH1210W-Digital- Temperature-Controller-screen-H2M6/253816032413? epid=1869137394&hash=item3b189d4c9d:g:HhsAAOSwRiNb dA4R |
#17
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Post Curing Composites
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