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Still C85 Nose Leak
Previously this list advised a split seal is used on my flanged crank C85
and I then verified my case vent, hoses and air/oil separator system were not blocked. Since rather than pulling that spinner, prop, nosecone and cowl baffling to install a new crank seal, would like to ensure I'm not missing something easier. Recently a guy mentioned putting a gauge on the vent to determine if case pressurized?? The engine compression has stayed at 79/80 hot for the last few years with my oil usage not changing although the air/oil separator system may have had a partial blockage for 6 months or so until I recently replaced the hoses and cleaned it. My question is: Once that front split seal leaks, will it ever stop leaking and is there any test/check to ensure the case is not being over pressurized to the point that a new seal would just start leaking??? (What causes over pressurization?) Thanks, Dick |
#2
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Still C85 Nose Leak
On Jun 24, 11:06 am, "Dick" wrote:
Previously this list advised a split seal is used on my flanged crank C85 and I then verified my case vent, hoses and air/oil separator system were not blocked. Since rather than pulling that spinner, prop, nosecone and cowl baffling to install a new crank seal, would like to ensure I'm not missing something easier. Recently a guy mentioned putting a gauge on the vent to determine if case pressurized?? The engine compression has stayed at 79/80 hot for the last few years with my oil usage not changing although the air/oil separator system may have had a partial blockage for 6 months or so until I recently replaced the hoses and cleaned it. My question is: Once that front split seal leaks, will it ever stop leaking and is there any test/check to ensure the case is not being over pressurized to the point that a new seal would just start leaking??? (What causes over pressurization?) Thanks, Dick The breather tube being blocked will cause pressurization. Gases that get by the piston rings have to have somewhere to go and the breather is there for them. Take the oil filler cap off and see if you can easily blow air through the engine and out the filler. Clean the crud off the tube end before you put your lips to it:-) The seal will be shot. Not much question in my mind about it. They get old and hard and shrink from the heat and start leaking. They're fun to replace, too, because the seal goes on easily but that tiny garter spring has to be put into it after it's on the crank but before it's shoved into the seal bore and there's not much room to work. A couple of needlenose pliers can hook the spring ends together, and a pick or two are needed to work the spring into the seal. Bad words are commonly employed, though they don't seem to help much. Use a bit of adhesive sealant on the outer periphery of the seal and in the bore itself. Dan |
#3
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Still C85 Nose Leak
will order new seal and try air flow to filler tube (good tip). thanks.
wrote in message oups.com... On Jun 24, 11:06 am, "Dick" wrote: Previously this list advised a split seal is used on my flanged crank C85 and I then verified my case vent, hoses and air/oil separator system were not blocked. Since rather than pulling that spinner, prop, nosecone and cowl baffling to install a new crank seal, would like to ensure I'm not missing something easier. Recently a guy mentioned putting a gauge on the vent to determine if case pressurized?? The engine compression has stayed at 79/80 hot for the last few years with my oil usage not changing although the air/oil separator system may have had a partial blockage for 6 months or so until I recently replaced the hoses and cleaned it. My question is: Once that front split seal leaks, will it ever stop leaking and is there any test/check to ensure the case is not being over pressurized to the point that a new seal would just start leaking??? (What causes over pressurization?) Thanks, Dick The breather tube being blocked will cause pressurization. Gases that get by the piston rings have to have somewhere to go and the breather is there for them. Take the oil filler cap off and see if you can easily blow air through the engine and out the filler. Clean the crud off the tube end before you put your lips to it:-) The seal will be shot. Not much question in my mind about it. They get old and hard and shrink from the heat and start leaking. They're fun to replace, too, because the seal goes on easily but that tiny garter spring has to be put into it after it's on the crank but before it's shoved into the seal bore and there's not much room to work. A couple of needlenose pliers can hook the spring ends together, and a pick or two are needed to work the spring into the seal. Bad words are commonly employed, though they don't seem to help much. Use a bit of adhesive sealant on the outer periphery of the seal and in the bore itself. Dan |
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