hard wax application

I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

Tuno wrote:

I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to

The short answer: If you have to ask, don't do it! Those machines can do
a *lot* of damage in the hands of the unskilled.

Start slow. Take your time. And stay away from edges. Do them by hand using
paste and an orbital polisher.

By the way, even though it's called "hard wax," you are not waxing. You are
applying polish to produce a mirror glaze. You will need a means of holding
the bar on end to apply the polish to the buffing pad. As on the sailplane,
go slow. Impatience will prove all the nay sayers right! As with any power
tool, there is a potential for harm, so think through what you're doing
first. If the cynics make you uncertain, just remember that M&H pays Harris
Hill juniors (high schoolers) to polish gliders with the same equipment.

Wear a mask and protect your eyes. The abrasive gets everywhere... in very
fine particles. Choose a small section of the sailplane to work to
completion so you can see how much effort is needed. Vertical fin (not the
rudder) is a good place to learn to handle the polishing wheel. I think
you'll be surprised (and very pleased) with the results. I find it handy to
have 800/1000/1500 grit sand paper at hand to work areas that are especially
rough. Wet sand, rinse, and dry before polishing.

You may want to seal your handiwork afterwards. I recommend Mother's natural
carnuba (no silicone). You don't need to slather... just a little will do
the trick.


"Tuno" wrote in message
...
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

On Apr 20, 8:43*am, Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

I put my block of hard wax, and the dealer supplied buffing wheel, in
a closet in the garage and used Wx block.

Andy

It is very important to seal the surface of your fiberglass glider.
Moisture does evil things to gelcoat.

Many years ago, we contacted Mother's Gold, one of the major suppliers
of automobile paste wax. It was advertised as 100% pure carnuba wax.
We bought a can. The product was very soft so it could be applied by
hand. We asked what is in their product?

Yes, the wax is pure carnuba, but there were 40% undesirable things to
make it soft. I explained what are needs are for fiberglass gliders.

Some years later, they called me to announce a new product. It is
called Mother's Gold, "Natural Formula." It has a small amount of non-
harmful softener (it is still pretty hard) but can easily be applied
by hand or machine.

We sell a lot of it to glider pilots, and as with all gliderports, we
appreciate your support.

Tom Knauff
Knauff & Grove Soaring Supplies
Ridge Soaring Gliderport
http://www.eglider.org
814-355-2483

Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

Isn't this a brand new glider? My understanding is it should have plenty
of wax on it for now. Maybe check with the dealer or the factory first.

I assume you are after gel coat protection, and not a shiny glider,
since it's already very shiny. Considering the problems an improperly
used polisher can cause (damaged control surfaces, overheated skin,
etc), I suggest you find someone that knows how to do it and have them
give you a lesson, like Robert Mudd, or fly JJ out for day, learn lots,
then send him off in the morning. Hey, maybe he could give a class on
polishing and more, charge $50/head for the day, and go home smiling
with a few hundred dollars in his pocket.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

* Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more

* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

On Apr 20, 8:43�am, Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

You need a special buffing wheel and a lot of patience. I started on
a Pegasus wing and about half way through I figured there had to be an
easier way. I tried 3M Finesse-It II and was much happier with the
application and finish. Everything that's been said is right on but
I'll add that the hard bar stuff is abrassive and designed for
finishes that are in rough shape. Since it's a cutting material you
would not want to apply it to a new glider's gel coat.

Mike

Mike,

Finesse-It II is a polishing material. It removes surface to make it
smoother. I used it on my V2C to remove lime deposits. It's great
stuff.

Hard wax has some abrassive content but it is primarily a wax, not a
polish -- it fills in tiny holes in the surface, which polishers do
not do. This serves to protect the gelcoat from moisture, which is my
primary concern, not making it smoother. I'm trying to optimize my
speed 5 and 10 years from now, not go faster tomorrow.

I am shocked, SHOCKED I tell you, that some people replying to my OP
suggest that power tools might harm my glider. Really?! Next time I'm
at the dentist, I'm going to tell him to crank that sucker by hand!

An open question is whether my glider received an application of hard
wax at the factory before they sent it out the door. (My wife's Toyota
did not.) If so, I'm not going to worry about this until the off
season. If not, I want to do what is prudent and appropriate to
protect my investment.

A8: thank you for the e-mail -- good stuff!

2NO

Tuno wrote:

I am shocked, SHOCKED I tell you, that some people replying to my OP
suggest that power tools might harm my glider. Really?! Next time I'm
at the dentist, I'm going to tell him to crank that sucker by hand!

Difference is, your dentist most probably has had several years of
serious training.

This hard wax thing *is* tricky. It must get warm to smoothly fill those
tiny holes. But get a tad too warm, and you destroy the wing. It *has*
happened. Stay two seconds too long at one place and the surface is
brown and you'll never know how much the structure has weakened. Let
that machine get out of control for half a second and you'll have
wonderful waves in the surface. You can do a lot of harm to a previously
perfect wing. No problem for the pro, but since you had to ask, chances
are your not a pro.

So I repeat my first answer: If you have to ask, don't do it. At least
don't do it without the help and supervision of a skilled person. Of
course, it's your glider and you can do what you want.

Hard wax has some abrassive content but it is primarily a wax, not a
polish -- it fills in tiny holes in the surface, which polishers do
not do.


This is what Heinz at M&H told me. In addition, the heat generated by
the process also softens the gelcoat which further helps to seal fine
cracks. You need a powerful angle buffer to generate this kind of heat,
as Ted clearly understands. Something that almost blows your circuit
breaker will suffice :-) - the US$40 polishers at Sears will not. Heinz
also repairs a few ships a year where a bit too much heat was generated
- especially on the thin control surfaces. It's a process that needs to
be learned and I'm still working on it - slowly

Tony V. LS6-b "6N"