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Stick grips



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 18th 03, 10:48 PM
John Nicholson
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Default Stick grips

Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John


  #2  
Old July 18th 03, 11:56 PM
B2431
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(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?


I do believe your hand should be on the grip.

Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired
  #3  
Old July 19th 03, 02:02 AM
Ernest Christley
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Default

John Nicholson wrote:
Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John



And to piggyback on John for just a second...

I see these grips advertised for upwards of $100. What do you get for $100?

My stick is a piece of 4130 tube. Well, my airplane's stick is a piece
of tube. Mine is made of a somewhat softer material. Be that as it
may, I don't see where these guys get the idea that I'd pay $100 for a
couple switches and a piece of plastic. My plan has been to make a mold
of my grip with some playdough and then duplicate it in a piece of
hardwood. Another option is to go with a logiteck joystick grip, but I
have a lot of trouble finding one that fits my hand.

--
----Because I can----
http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/
------------------------

  #4  
Old July 19th 03, 05:38 AM
Jerry Wass
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Default

I put a rubber bicycle handlebar grip(kinda hard to find these days,everything's
plastic) and squeezed a push to talk switch into the existing hole in the grip.

John Nicholson wrote:

Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John


  #5  
Old July 19th 03, 07:49 AM
guynoir
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Here is a picture of an early prototype control stick I designed for a
Graham Lee Nieuport replica:

http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/oct_01/pa130017.jpg

The offset in the stick matches a corresponding convexity in many of the
Noon Patrol members. The stick itself cost me at least $2 for materials
and the only swtich on it will be a velcroed push to talk switch. The
cross section is about 1¼" square with the corners on the top 6"
radiused to ½". It's quite comfortable to hold, there's just something
about wood... What I don't like about "molded to fit your hand
perfectly grips" is that they severely limit your hand positions on the
stick. I fly with two fingers most of the time. Sometimes I choke up
on the stick, sometimes I hold the very tip, sometimes I rest my wrist
against my leg and hold the stick from the side, sometimes from straight
behind, some times left hand, sometimes right hand. For that, a simple
stick works best.

For a Lancair, however, you need to spend at least $100 just because
it's a Lancair.

John Nicholson wrote:
Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John



  #6  
Old July 19th 03, 11:32 AM
Del Rawlins
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Default

On 18 Jul 2003 08:38 PM, Jerry Wass posted the following:
I put a rubber bicycle handlebar grip(kinda hard to find these days,
everything's plastic) and squeezed a push to talk switch into the
existing hole in the grip.


Motorcycles and ATVs use rubber grips; I believe most of them fit a 7/8"
tube, which just happens to be the size used for the Bearhawk's control
stick. If you buy a set of grips meant for a machine with twist
throttle, one of the grips will have a slightly larger inside diameter
to fit over the throttle tube.

Coincidentally, I am hoping to finish welding on the stick assembly
tomorrow. 8^) The only switches in my control sticks will be for push
to transmit.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/
  #7  
Old July 19th 03, 06:46 PM
Jerry Wass
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Default

Do I detekt som lamenations in that stick, or did you just hunt fer a crooked tree
branch???Sumpin sexy 'bout the the curvature of that thing, but I can't remember
what it is....or wuz...or used to be---Weighted absolute opinion--Luv-It!!

guynoir wrote:

Here is a picture of an early prototype control stick I designed for a
Graham Lee Nieuport replica:

http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/oct_01/pa130017.jpg

The offset in the stick matches a corresponding convexity in many of the
Noon Patrol members. The stick itself cost me at least $2 for materials
and the only swtich on it will be a velcroed push to talk switch. The
cross section is about 1¼" square with the corners on the top 6"
radiused to ½". It's quite comfortable to hold, there's just something
about wood... What I don't like about "molded to fit your hand
perfectly grips" is that they severely limit your hand positions on the
stick. I fly with two fingers most of the time. Sometimes I choke up
on the stick, sometimes I hold the very tip, sometimes I rest my wrist
against my leg and hold the stick from the side, sometimes from straight
behind, some times left hand, sometimes right hand. For that, a simple
stick works best.

For a Lancair, however, you need to spend at least $100 just because
it's a Lancair.

John Nicholson wrote:
Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John



  #9  
Old July 20th 03, 05:30 AM
Scott VanderVeen
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Default


I plan on making the grip ambidextrous as it would be a bit more
convenient, although less comfortable. There are a number of "Game"
joy sticks that would be ideal for the right hand, but they are very
uncomfortable when used with the left.

The gaming industry got it backwards there...although a right hand one
for the right seat and left for the left seat would be the way to go.


Like these? I bought a pair (left and right), though I am planning to use
them as a pattern to duplicate them in wood. They are cheap.

http://www.arrow4graphics.com/Vision...%201/controls1.
htm

Scott V





  #10  
Old July 21st 03, 11:22 AM
Andre
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Default

At night when I get home I sit in my Sonerai and make engine noises
ocasionally alternated by machine gun fire noises when I press the PTT
button. I think it would be really cool if I could find a device that will
make the machine gun fire noises while I'm doing a beat up of the club
house! I'd like the activation button for that on my stick! :-)
Andre

"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On 18 Jul 2003 22:56:06 GMT, (B2431) wrote:

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't

be
on the grip?


I do believe your hand should be on the grip.


That's a good start...:-))

"For me", I want the radio PTT, trim, and autopilot disconnect. There
are maybe some I've missed, but those three are my primary choices.

I plan on making the grip ambidextrous as it would be a bit more
convenient, although less comfortable. There are a number of "Game"
joy sticks that would be ideal for the right hand, but they are very
uncomfortable when used with the left.

The gaming industry got it backwards there...although a right hand one
for the right seat and left for the left seat would be the way to go.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)


Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired




 




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