post vs stick hangar construction

"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now getting
to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Green is me, with envy. Post the pictures in alt.appalachian.binaries,
Dan, then announce here that you've posted them.

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

--
Dan D.

On 30 Oct 2003 02:56 PM, Blueskies posted the following:
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the construction but
no where to post them...

If you make it 2 feet wider, you will be able to get a DeHavilland
Beaver through the door without any diagonal monkey motion (should the
need ever arise).

8^)

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

On Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:56:10 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

First I pressure washed it, then acid etch followed by another wash.
Gave it 3 days to dry with the heat on, and then gave it three coats
of 2-part epoxy from Lowe's. Other than that I used no sealers.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

"Del Rawlins" wrote in message
...
On 30 Oct 2003 02:56 PM, Blueskies posted the following:
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the construction but
no where to post them...

If you make it 2 feet wider, you will be able to get a DeHavilland
Beaver through the door without any diagonal monkey motion (should the
need ever arise).

8^)

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-

If I built the 48', and got a Beaver, I would gladly go through any
necessary gyrations! g
--
Jim in NC

"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:56:10 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

First I pressure washed it, then acid etch followed by another wash.
Gave it 3 days to dry with the heat on, and then gave it three coats
of 2-part epoxy from Lowe's. Other than that I used no sealers.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Right. Make sure to use no sealer, as that could interfere with the epoxy.
Best to wait 30 days to put down any epoxy, to let the concrete finish 99%
of its cure.
--
Jim in NC

("Roger Halstead" wrote)
First I pressure washed it, then acid etch followed by another wash.
Gave it 3 days to dry with the heat on, and then gave it three coats
of 2-part epoxy from Lowe's. Other than that I used no sealers.

We etched Margene's sister's garage floor with muric(sp?) acid after
scrubbing it clean, by hand. Our problem was humidity. I don't think we let
the floor get dry enough. It was hot and muggy out when we poured the paint
out of the can and rolled it out/on - the floor was trying to be a little
damp anyway. The other mistake was, Margene's sister drove on it too soon -
next day IIRC. Long story short, it wasn't our best effort. Paint pulled up
in high traffic areas after a year.

Dry floor, low humidity, let things dry like Roger said. You'll be glad you
did. We used Sears garage floor paint. It was us, not the paint, that was
the problem with our project. Same amount of effort doing it wrong as doing
it right - wish we had done it right.

--
Montblack

In article ,
Del Rawlins wrote:


On 30 Oct 2003 02:56 PM, Blueskies posted the following:
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the construction but
no where to post them...

If you make it 2 feet wider, you will be able to get a DeHavilland
Beaver through the door without any diagonal monkey motion (should the
need ever arise).

And if that DeHavilland'll fit, it _otter_ be adequate for anything else!

Hi Dan,

What radiant system did you use ?? I am also building up in NH. Moving
from FL back to the snowbelt.

My hangar here is 46 x 60 x 12 and I used muriac acid to etch and then used
a product from Home Depot (can't remember what it was and I have never had a
problem with it. Never got the tire marks like other owners here had.

My hangar in NH will be 48x60x14 with radiant heat. Just finished the
foundation walls yesterday and laying the insulation next week.

Merle
"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now getting
to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

--
Dan D.



.
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 02:38:48 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

Pole barn is the way to go here in MI. The stick built version was 2x
the cost of the poles....


I built a 28 by 40 foot shop. The floor is high strength concrete with
a rat wall type foundation. (I wish I had gone with a standard
foundation although no problems with the rat wall). We used stick
built,, with one inch styrofoam over the outside covered with vinyl
siding. The inside is barn metal which is what most use on the
outside. The walls are filled with roll insulation while the ceiling
has 16 inches of cellulose blown in. If condensation is not a problem
I'd use the cellulose for insulation although the foam seals "tight".

I also have one inch of styrofoam under the concrete.
The cost (using a contractor) was little different than had I gone
with a pole type construction finished in the same manner.

The only reason I wish I had gone with a conventional foundation which
would not have added more than a couple hundred dollars over the rat
wall is thermal isolation. I'd put a thermal barrier between the
floor and the outside wall/foundation using either half inch bead
board or styrofoam.

Even with the two big doors plus the man door it's quite economical to
heat and I can keep it comfortable with a little window air
conditioner in the hot summer.

The shop is just north of my garage, but I'm based at 3BS (Midland)
which is about 11.3 on the 337 radial from MBS.

The second page of my G-III construction diary has some photos of the
construction at http://www.rogerhalstead.com/glasair2.htm


Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Durapex (http://www.durapex.com/heating.asp), from Menards here in MI. I will use a 70,000 BTU water heater for the heat source.

I figured out how to put some pix up on my Yahoo account.

See: http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...ase.yahoo.com/



--
Dan D.



..
"Merle Wagner" wrote in message link.net...
Hi Dan,

What radiant system did you use ?? I am also building up in NH. Moving
from FL back to the snowbelt.

My hangar here is 46 x 60 x 12 and I used muriac acid to etch and then used
a product from Home Depot (can't remember what it was and I have never had a
problem with it. Never got the tire marks like other owners here had.

My hangar in NH will be 48x60x14 with radiant heat. Just finished the
foundation walls yesterday and laying the insulation next week.

Merle
"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now getting
to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

--
Dan D.



.
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 02:38:48 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

Pole barn is the way to go here in MI. The stick built version was 2x
the cost of the poles....


I built a 28 by 40 foot shop. The floor is high strength concrete with
a rat wall type foundation. (I wish I had gone with a standard
foundation although no problems with the rat wall). We used stick
built,, with one inch styrofoam over the outside covered with vinyl
siding. The inside is barn metal which is what most use on the
outside. The walls are filled with roll insulation while the ceiling
has 16 inches of cellulose blown in. If condensation is not a problem
I'd use the cellulose for insulation although the foam seals "tight".

I also have one inch of styrofoam under the concrete.
The cost (using a contractor) was little different than had I gone
with a pole type construction finished in the same manner.

The only reason I wish I had gone with a conventional foundation which
would not have added more than a couple hundred dollars over the rat
wall is thermal isolation. I'd put a thermal barrier between the
floor and the outside wall/foundation using either half inch bead
board or styrofoam.

Even with the two big doors plus the man door it's quite economical to
heat and I can keep it comfortable with a little window air
conditioner in the hot summer.

The shop is just north of my garage, but I'm based at 3BS (Midland)
which is about 11.3 on the 337 radial from MBS.

The second page of my G-III construction diary has some photos of the
construction at http://www.rogerhalstead.com/glasair2.htm


Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

I was wishing for 62 x 40, but $$$ got in the way, or should I say lack of $$$. I wanted to be sure the PT17 would fit,
if I ever find one. For now it is just a big open space - room of dreams!

--
Dan D.



..
"Del Rawlins" wrote in message ...
On 30 Oct 2003 02:56 PM, Blueskies posted the following:
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the construction but
no where to post them...

If you make it 2 feet wider, you will be able to get a DeHavilland
Beaver through the door without any diagonal monkey motion (should the
need ever arise).

8^)

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/