post vs stick hangar construction

Did you consider solar?

"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
Durapex (http://www.durapex.com/heating.asp), from Menards here in MI. I
will use a 70,000 BTU water heater for the heat source.

I figured out how to put some pix up on my Yahoo account.

See:
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...ase.yahoo.com/



--
Dan D.



..
"Merle Wagner" wrote in message
link.net...
Hi Dan,

What radiant system did you use ?? I am also building up in NH. Moving
from FL back to the snowbelt.

My hangar here is 46 x 60 x 12 and I used muriac acid to etch and then
used
a product from Home Depot (can't remember what it was and I have never had
a
problem with it. Never got the tire marks like other owners here had.

My hangar in NH will be 48x60x14 with radiant heat. Just finished the
foundation walls yesterday and laying the insulation next week.

Merle
"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting
to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

--
Dan D.



.
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 02:38:48 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

Pole barn is the way to go here in MI. The stick built version was 2x
the cost of the poles....


I built a 28 by 40 foot shop. The floor is high strength concrete with
a rat wall type foundation. (I wish I had gone with a standard
foundation although no problems with the rat wall). We used stick
built,, with one inch styrofoam over the outside covered with vinyl
siding. The inside is barn metal which is what most use on the
outside. The walls are filled with roll insulation while the ceiling
has 16 inches of cellulose blown in. If condensation is not a problem
I'd use the cellulose for insulation although the foam seals "tight".

I also have one inch of styrofoam under the concrete.
The cost (using a contractor) was little different than had I gone
with a pole type construction finished in the same manner.

The only reason I wish I had gone with a conventional foundation which
would not have added more than a couple hundred dollars over the rat
wall is thermal isolation. I'd put a thermal barrier between the
floor and the outside wall/foundation using either half inch bead
board or styrofoam.

Even with the two big doors plus the man door it's quite economical to
heat and I can keep it comfortable with a little window air
conditioner in the hot summer.

The shop is just north of my garage, but I'm based at 3BS (Midland)
which is about 11.3 on the 337 radial from MBS.

The second page of my G-III construction diary has some photos of the
construction at http://www.rogerhalstead.com/glasair2.htm


Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

"Fr. John Elledge" wrote in message
...
Did you consider solar?

Are you kidding? How many square feet of collectors would it take to get
70,000 BTU's?

I really think that 70,000 BTU's may be calling it close. May have to put
another 40,000 unit in to help on the bad days.

Nice job. Build something in there to make your building proud!
--
Jim in NC

On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 00:21:56 GMT, "Merle Wagner"
wrote:

Hi Dan,

What radiant system did you use ?? I am also building up in NH. Moving
from FL back to the snowbelt.

My hangar here is 46 x 60 x 12 and I used muriac acid to etch and then used
a product from Home Depot (can't remember what it was and I have never had a
problem with it. Never got the tire marks like other owners here had.

My hangar in NH will be 48x60x14 with radiant heat. Just finished the
foundation walls yesterday and laying the insulation next week.

I put in a 75,000 BTU IR tube heater. It heats all the objects in the
room. You open the door in the winter, drive in, shut the doors and
it's warm ... Tools are comfortable to handle in the mornings.
Costs less than half to heat as my house even with the two big garage
doors.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Yes, not cost effective this far north...

--
Dan D.



..
"Fr. John Elledge" wrote in message ...
Did you consider solar?

"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
Durapex (http://www.durapex.com/heating.asp), from Menards here in MI. I
will use a 70,000 BTU water heater for the heat source.

I figured out how to put some pix up on my Yahoo account.

See:

http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...ase.yahoo.com/



--
Dan D.



.
"Merle Wagner" wrote in message
link.net...
Hi Dan,

What radiant system did you use ?? I am also building up in NH. Moving
from FL back to the snowbelt.

My hangar here is 46 x 60 x 12 and I used muriac acid to etch and then
used
a product from Home Depot (can't remember what it was and I have never had
a
problem with it. Never got the tire marks like other owners here had.

My hangar in NH will be 48x60x14 with radiant heat. Just finished the
foundation walls yesterday and laying the insulation next week.

Merle
"Blueskies" wrote in message
.com...
I am putting up a 48x48 'hanger' with radiant heat floor. Just now
getting
to the wiring stage. I've got pictures of the
construction but no where to post them...

Roger, what did you seal/paint the floor with? I need to do that soon
before it gets too cold or wait 'till spring...

--
Dan D.



.
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 02:38:48 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

Pole barn is the way to go here in MI. The stick built version was 2x
the cost of the poles....


I built a 28 by 40 foot shop. The floor is high strength concrete with
a rat wall type foundation. (I wish I had gone with a standard
foundation although no problems with the rat wall). We used stick
built,, with one inch styrofoam over the outside covered with vinyl
siding. The inside is barn metal which is what most use on the
outside. The walls are filled with roll insulation while the ceiling
has 16 inches of cellulose blown in. If condensation is not a problem
I'd use the cellulose for insulation although the foam seals "tight".

I also have one inch of styrofoam under the concrete.
The cost (using a contractor) was little different than had I gone
with a pole type construction finished in the same manner.

The only reason I wish I had gone with a conventional foundation which
would not have added more than a couple hundred dollars over the rat
wall is thermal isolation. I'd put a thermal barrier between the
floor and the outside wall/foundation using either half inch bead
board or styrofoam.

Even with the two big doors plus the man door it's quite economical to
heat and I can keep it comfortable with a little window air
conditioner in the hot summer.

The shop is just north of my garage, but I'm based at 3BS (Midland)
which is about 11.3 on the 337 radial from MBS.

The second page of my G-III construction diary has some photos of the
construction at http://www.rogerhalstead.com/glasair2.htm


Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Indeed that is the plan. I know the 70,000 is close, but I don't plan to keep it at 70. As long as it stays above 40 I
will be happy. Good idea about the supplemental heater...

I hope the building is very proud in a couple of years....

--
Dan D.



..
"Morgans" wrote in message ...

"Fr. John Elledge" wrote in message
...
Did you consider solar?

Are you kidding? How many square feet of collectors would it take to get
70,000 BTU's?

I really think that 70,000 BTU's may be calling it close. May have to put
another 40,000 unit in to help on the bad days.

Nice job. Build something in there to make your building proud!
--
Jim in NC

My shop is 60 X 60 X 14 with in floor radiant heat. It has no problem at
all staying warm with a 100,000 btu boiler. One thing you need to remember
is with radiant floor heat you will not have the thermostat set as high,
you don't need to. When we first turned ours on we set it at 70 and that
was too warm. Sweating warm when we were working on something. We now
leave it on about 60 or so.

John Stricker

I have all kinds of pictures of the shop construction, but nowhere to host
them so screw it. 8-)

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Fr. John Elledge" wrote in message
...
Did you consider solar?

Are you kidding? How many square feet of collectors would it take to get
70,000 BTU's?

I really think that 70,000 BTU's may be calling it close. May have to put
another 40,000 unit in to help on the bad days.

Nice job. Build something in there to make your building proud!
--
Jim in NC