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Product to remove oil stains from concrete for painting?



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 11th 04, 04:43 AM
rich a.
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I work in the monument (gravestones) industry and we occasionally need
to remove oil spots on granite/marble monuments, usually caused by
careless lawn workers putting an oil can on a monument.

While the following method may not be suitable for an entire floor, it
works good for smaller spots. Make a poultice paste of common white
plaster and laquer thinner (or white gas) and slather it on the stain
with a trowel, leaving it approx 1/2" thick (thickness not critical).
As it drys the plaster will draw out the oil. When dry, scrape/sweep
it off. Be careful not to let the plaster get wet from water (if
outside cover with plastic sheet) or it will harden and will have to
be chipped off with a chisel. Like I said, this may not be practible
for a large floor....but will do the trick for smaller stains from
engine oil drips on a hanger floor. Deep stains may require more than
one treatment.

Usual disclaimer about being careful with fire/sparks near flammable
substances, etc.

Rich A.

  #12  
Old September 11th 04, 11:38 AM
Scott
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I'm not sure I'd like to try that...probably would end up setting the
whole township on fire with my luck

Scott


Stan Kap wrote:
Scott,

I watched a guy at an airport one time that took a 55 gal drum cut off both
ends then set it over the spot on the floor where the oil was, he then
poured some fuel on the stain inside the perimeter of the drum and set it on
fire. It burned away the oil stain completely. Later he epoxied the entire
hangar. It was a big hangar too, about 150 x 200 for King Airs and the
Citations.

Stan Kapushinski



"Scott" wrote in message
...

I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?


--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die






--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
  #13  
Old September 12th 04, 12:16 AM
Clay
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(rich a.) wrote in message . com...
I work in the monument (gravestones) industry and we occasionally need
to remove oil spots on granite/marble monuments, usually caused by
careless lawn workers putting an oil can on a monument.

Try Klenztone #1 to clean the concrete or even limestone. IRT,
Lee's Summit, Mo. 816-795-1106, sells Klenztone. This stuff is
terriffic!!!!!!! I used it to clean up a 40 year old wearhouse floor
at a salt mine in Kansas. We used it clean and prep damaged areas of
the floor. Belzona 4111 (epoxy concrete) was used to repair the
floor. An outfit by the name of BB Casewell has had good luck putting
down epoxy floor finishes. I think they are out of St. Joseph, Mo.
The folks at IRT could direct you the them.
Tide detergent also works but is a mess to clean up. I have used the
method Rich talked about and it does work. You may also try the same
thing with fine sawdust and the solvent of your choice.

While the following method may not be suitable for an entire floor, it
works good for smaller spots. Make a poultice paste of common white
plaster and laquer thinner (or white gas) and slather it on the stain
with a trowel, leaving it approx 1/2" thick (thickness not critical).
As it drys the plaster will draw out the oil. When dry, scrape/sweep
it off. Be careful not to let the plaster get wet from water (if
outside cover with plastic sheet) or it will harden and will have to
be chipped off with a chisel. Like I said, this may not be practible
for a large floor....but will do the trick for smaller stains from
engine oil drips on a hanger floor. Deep stains may require more than
one treatment.

Usual disclaimer about being careful with fire/sparks near flammable
substances, etc.

Rich A.

  #14  
Old September 12th 04, 03:04 AM
Sid Sawyer
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I've had good luck with two unlikely products.
1. Cement. Straight out of the 94 pound bag. I use it as a sweeping
compound. It sucks the oil right out of the concrete. I've never tried
painting over it, though.
2. Liquid diswashing detergent. Not the kind you squirt in the sink, the
kind you squirt in the dishwasher. It works especially well outdoors where
the sun can later bleach it.


"Scott" wrote in message
...
I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?


--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die



  #15  
Old September 12th 04, 11:42 PM
Ed Wischmeyer
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http://www.pournrestore.com/


I used Pour 'n Restore to get the oil stains out of my concrete floor so I
could paint it. Worked great, I'm a believer. After I got the oil stains
up, then I did the acid etch.

IIRC, I used the Sherwin Williams garage floor treatment, and after they
sold it to me and I botched the application, they said it should only be
applied by professionals.

Oh, well.

Ed Wischmeyer
  #16  
Old September 13th 04, 06:36 AM
Bart D. Hull
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Ed,

Didn't we talk about my experience in painting my garage
floor before you did yours?

What do you think got "botched" when you applied it.

I believe I used the same product and got awesome results.

Bart

Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check
http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.



Ed Wischmeyer wrote:

http://www.pournrestore.com/


I used Pour 'n Restore to get the oil stains out of my concrete floor
so I could paint it. Worked great, I'm a believer. After I got the oil
stains up, then I did the acid etch.

IIRC, I used the Sherwin Williams garage floor treatment, and after
they sold it to me and I botched the application, they said it should
only be applied by professionals.

Oh, well.

Ed Wischmeyer

  #17  
Old September 13th 04, 02:37 PM
Ed Wischmeyer
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On 2004-09-12 22:36:04 -0700, "Bart D. Hull"
said:

Didn't we talk about my experience in painting my garage
floor before you did yours?

What do you think got "botched" when you applied it.


I have no idea what I did right or wrong. Other folks in the neighborhood
have used the same product, some got great results, some got poor results.
It might be the concrete, stains that didn't come out completely, or phase
of the moon. Totally flat learning curve on this one...

Ed
  #18  
Old September 15th 04, 06:31 PM
George W. Shrub
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"Bart D. Hull" wrote in message
...
Ed,

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.


Looks like the website was more work than the plane! Thanks for all the
detailed photos & info.


 




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