If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
Another stupid question!
Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the bolts got a bit snug. In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware. I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether? By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in each pair of plates. Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
In article ,
Fortunat1 wrote: Another stupid question! Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the bolts got a bit snug. In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware. I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether? By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in each pair of plates. Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all! Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and keeps the tool cool. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
The problem is hardening of the hole edge due to the heat of the laser or
plasmas cutting torch. The material you are reaming is slightly hardened. Stan Kapushinski "Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message news In article , Fortunat1 wrote: Another stupid question! Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the bolts got a bit snug. In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware. I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether? By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in each pair of plates. Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all! Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and keeps the tool cool. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
"StanKap" wrote in
: The problem is hardening of the hole edge due to the heat of the laser or plasmas cutting torch. The material you are reaming is slightly hardened. Yeah, I kind of figured that that might be a problem, though it was easy enough to clean up the edges with a flapper wheel. Also I think the laser might have been a little conservative cutting the holes 1/64 under making it slightly hard work for the reamer. Towards the end, before it died, I was gently knocking the edge off the burnt bit with a rat tail file. I suspect the reamer might nt have been the best quality either. Bertie |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
Orval Fairbairn wrote in
news In article , Fortunat1 wrote: Another stupid question! Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the bolts got a bit snug. In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware. I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether? By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in each pair of plates. Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all! Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and keeps the tool cool. Just 3in1. It didn't seem to generate a lot of heat. I was only using a hand drive on it. I'll try a good grade of cutting oil instead next time. Thanks! |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
"Fortunat1" wrote in message
.. . All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale. Suggest you ask someone in the Greater Seattle area to stop by Boeing Surplus and buy a couple pounds of reamers for you. Last I remember they were ~$3/lb. Rich S. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
Orval, I ain't a tinbender and don't pretend that I am. However, if the
(for instance) 1/4" hole is a sixty-fourth undersize, it should come out 0.234". A letter-D drill will take it out to 0.246" (admittedly with some triangularity) which should significantly cut into the laser hardened part of the steel, then the reamer only has to take off the last four thou. If you want to cut yourself some more leeway, a letter-C drill will take it out to 0.242 and then you get to ream eight thou. And for the rest of you, PLEASE SNIP EVERYTHING in the message you are answering except a few pertinent lines. Jim -- "If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." --Henry Ford "Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message news By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and keeps the tool cool. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
"RST Engineering" wrote in
: Orval, I ain't a tinbender and don't pretend that I am. However, if the (for instance) 1/4" hole is a sixty-fourth undersize, it should come out 0.234". A letter-D drill will take it out to 0.246" (admittedly with some triangularity) which should significantly cut into the laser hardened part of the steel, then the reamer only has to take off the last four thou. If you want to cut yourself some more leeway, a letter-C drill will take it out to 0.242 and then you get to ream eight thou. OK. I did try to file out most of it. My drill supply wouldn't be all that large and there aren't a lot of places wit a good suply handt to where I live, but I will try that. I did try and sharpen the one I have, but it didn't really work. Used a little slip stone I have for gouges and it was OK for getting the burrs off, but not so great for sharpening. I think the quality of the reamer is probably the biggest prob I had. Anyway, we worked through a few more holes today using the worn one to at least get some of the harder stuff off and now it'll be relatively easy to do those holes over when I get a new reamer. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
Fortunat1 wrote:
"RST Engineering" wrote in : Orval, I ain't a tinbender and don't pretend that I am. However, if the (for instance) 1/4" hole is a sixty-fourth undersize, it should come out 0.234". A letter-D drill will take it out to 0.246" (admittedly with some triangularity) which should significantly cut into the laser hardened part of the steel, then the reamer only has to take off the last four thou. If you want to cut yourself some more leeway, a letter-C drill will take it out to 0.242 and then you get to ream eight thou. OK. I did try to file out most of it. My drill supply wouldn't be all that large and there aren't a lot of places wit a good suply handt to where I live, but I will try that. I did try and sharpen the one I have, but it didn't really work. Used a little slip stone I have for gouges and it was OK for getting the burrs off, but not so great for sharpening. I think the quality of the reamer is probably the biggest prob I had. Anyway, we worked through a few more holes today using the worn one to at least get some of the harder stuff off and now it'll be relatively easy to do those holes over when I get a new reamer. Try Mcmaster.com, the prices aren't the greatest however the quality and customer service are. I also tend to get next day service if I order before they start business for the day and don't pay any more than basic UPS. Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Reaming
Dan wrote in :
Try Mcmaster.com, the prices aren't the greatest however the quality and customer service are. I also tend to get next day service if I order before they start business for the day and don't pay any more than basic UPS. OK, thanks. I'll try 'em tomorrow. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Reaming needed on aft wing attach point. | Boelkowj | Home Built | 0 | November 7th 03 01:30 AM |