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#1
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Master cylinder rebuild?
Hi all, The Cleveland 10-20 cylinder in my AS-W20C is leaking a little from the top and I'm thinking of rebuilding it. An O-ring kit is $13 and a new cylinder is $260, any thoughts on whether or not it makes more sense to replace the whole thing and be done with it? I don't have any experience with this so I'm not sure how successful I'll be with the overhaul. Considering the time and effort involved with the R&R does it make sense to rebuild it and hope for the best?
Thanks, jim |
#2
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Master cylinder rebuild?
I have rebuilt several Cleveland cylinders, both master and slave with no problems. Typically, either the O-rings fail, there is crud build up. or at worst and rarely, there is corrosion in the cylinder walls.
Pull it apart and give it a look. Then decide if you need a new one. |
#3
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Master cylinder rebuild?
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#4
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Master cylinder rebuild?
Order the Cleveland part.
Replacing O-rings can be finicky so you may want to befriend your local A&P with adult beverages and let him teach you about brake cylinders and O-rings. First-hand knowledge and instruction is invaluable and you get to keep the skill/knowledge for next time |
#5
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Master cylinder rebuild?
On Thursday, September 27, 2012 3:03:00 PM UTC-7, (unknown) wrote:
Order the Cleveland part. Or get them for a lot less from McMaster-Carr. Buna-N rubber for use with Mil-Spec 5606 fluid (the red stuff), or EPDM rubber for use with DOT automotive type brake fluids. BTW, the underlying problem is that for many years Cleveland did not anodize the aluminum brake parts. DOT fluid is hygroscopic and tends to cause corrosion. Quick test to see if a part is anodized, touch the leads of an ohm meter to the part. Anodize layer is an insulator. bumper |
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