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Glider electrics etc
At 00:24 06 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 22:06:34 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote: At 19:52 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote: On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote: At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote: On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote: . I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the more so as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the radio end. This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work OK, and so it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because otherwise the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to slide out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio. I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original cable is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm not keen on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no better electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not least, I don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either. -- If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply wrap it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be totally waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to disconnect it. Ben. Sounds good to me. Thanks. -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org I have always prefered Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape. But getting back to the original posting, we should never recommend Belling-Lee and only use where there is no alternative. Tim Newport-Peace http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm Agreed - obviously an extra 50cm of uncut cable with just a BNF on the end would be a lot better, but, as I said, I really don't want to mess about with soldering etc in mid-air on a piece of cable that comes out near the front end of the right side instrument panel support channel. However, if you can point me at a description of how to to use 'Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape' after, presumably, soldering the internal wire ends together, that would be interesting to know. Would it be easier than making upo some sort of clip to lock the B-L halves together? I had in mind sleving the Belling Lee with Heatshrink and the internal glue will seal to the outer of the co-ax eat each end. That should be moisture-proof. I would Never suggest splicing co-ax. However, another possible solution would be to use: https://tinyurl.com/tseyff8 or similar. No Soldering required. I don't particularly like these, but I like Belling Lee even less. At least you will be using a 50Ohm connector which is moisture proof. Tim Newport-Peace http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm |
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