More LED's - Again

..Blueskies. wrote:
snipped
wrote in message oups.com...

RST Engineering wrote:

One of those green kitchen pot scrubbers does a pretty fair job getting the
paper off while leaving the toner on the board.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could make labels and placards and then iron them on,
color and all...



White would be tough on most printers


Sounds like somma you guys have actually tried this technique and
had good results with it. I'm surprised. But it's good news.

I tried it many years ago using a copy machine copy.
Hey, That's all we had!

The results were luke warm at best.
The traces were porous and often had to be "jumped" with wire.
Large ground planes would fade out in the center.
As would any traces running nearby.

No way they were good enough for microprocessor based boards.
That still required a photo shoot to make masks.


Is this trick working better now with a laser printer?



Richard

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 14:36:51 -0800, "RST Engineering"
wrote:

It simply transfers the black toner to the aluminum surface. I haven't
tried painting the surface before transferring, but if I'm careful I can
probably get away with it without scorching the paint.

Anybody got a cheap and dirty way of coloring aluminum without paint? I
haven't seen a good cheap way of using dye nor a good anodizing method. I
can get gold by using alodine, but the coating is rather subject to
scuffing.

Jim


Jim
the wonders of google!
I posted a description of a simple desktop anodising setup many years
ago but lost it a while back in a machine crash.
damned if the original article isnt still on the web. I'm amazed.

google "anodising ockleshaw"

this is a desktop anodising that graeme demonstrated before us one
meeting. from assembly of the bits to the final anodised part took
about half an hour.
simple to do and fascinating to watch.

Stealth Pilot
(still the secretary of the perth Model Engineers society btw but the
email address is 3 isp's old now)

Efficient Lighting

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting.html

Richard Lamb wrote:
Efficient Lighting

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting.html

The article is correct about the efficiency of white LEDs. LEDs are not
going to illuminate homes and offices unless a breakthrogh in
efficiency occurs. All the claims in this regard is nothing but a
marketing hype.

But when it comes to a monochromatic source (red, green, etc..) the
LEDs easily outperform any other conventional source with a color
filter. This is one reason why they are popular in brake lights and
traffic lights. That is also the reason for its use a nav lights in
aircraft.

Richard Lamb wrote:

.Blueskies. wrote:

Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could
make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all...



White would be tough on most printers



Richard
snip snip etc

How bout high temp (engine/exhaust) paint? Make a mask to paint only where
your transfer will be and pain it white the color copy will handle the
rest. The high temp paint would need to handle the temp of the iron without
discoloring. I haven't tried it but it's an idea! Anyone want to give it a
go and report back? ;-)
John

RST Engineering wrote:

It simply transfers the black toner to the aluminum surface. I haven't
tried painting the surface before transferring, but if I'm careful I can
probably get away with it without scorching the paint.

Anybody got a cheap and dirty way of coloring aluminum without paint? I
haven't seen a good cheap way of using dye nor a good anodizing method. I
can get gold by using alodine, but the coating is rather subject to
scuffing.


Jim
This is an excellent very detailed article I came across a while back. He
hawks his 'kit' but also gives complete details on how to do it on your
own. The kit is nice for people who just want to "do it".
John

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

UltraJohn wrote:
Richard Lamb wrote:


.Blueskies. wrote:

Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could
make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all...



White would be tough on most printers



Richard

snip snip etc

How bout high temp (engine/exhaust) paint? Make a mask to paint only where
your transfer will be and pain it white the color copy will handle the
rest. The high temp paint would need to handle the temp of the iron without
discoloring. I haven't tried it but it's an idea! Anyone want to give it a
go and report back? ;-)
John


How about a simple step directly to silk screen process?

That was exactly what I was looking for, with the exception that it doesn't
give home store sources for the desmut, color, and sealer process. It does
tell how to clean (hot soapy water) and anodize clear (battery acid and a
battery charger) but nothing else.

I'll experiment and get back to you all...

Jim



"UltraJohn" wrote in message
ink.net...
RST Engineering wrote:

It simply transfers the black toner to the aluminum surface. I haven't
tried painting the surface before transferring, but if I'm careful I can
probably get away with it without scorching the paint.

Anybody got a cheap and dirty way of coloring aluminum without paint? I
haven't seen a good cheap way of using dye nor a good anodizing method.
I
can get gold by using alodine, but the coating is rather subject to
scuffing.


Jim
This is an excellent very detailed article I came across a while back. He
hawks his 'kit' but also gives complete details on how to do it on your
own. The kit is nice for people who just want to "do it".
John

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

RST Engineering wrote:

Now you can etch the board in the usual way.

Or you can use the new, improved way without that nasty ferric chloride.
Plain old swimming pool etchant (muriatic acid -- 28% HCl) from the home
store plus plain old hydrogen peroxide (3%) from the drug store mixed 2:1
respectively does an admirable job at room temperature. Plus, when you get
done, you have metallic copper (not a hazmat), hydrochloric acid (not a
hazmat), and the hydrogen peroxide which, within half an hour, has broken
down into oxygen (which has escaped into the air) and water. If you want to
be totally environmentally friendly, you can neutralize the HCl with baking
soda ($5.99 for ten pounds at the Charlie's Club places) before pouring it
down the sink.

Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid

http://www.artmondo.net/printworks/articles/ferric.htm
Spent ferric chloride can be neutralized with soda as well.

Plus, I THIINK Ferric Chloride is the commonly available de-smuting
solution you need to anodize 2000 series aluminum.

For dyeing anodized aluminum, try RIT, or page through this catalog:
http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2934904-AA.shtml Sealing, I guess
you'll have to use clear lacquer.

"flybynightkarmarepair" wrote in message
oups.com...

RST Engineering wrote:

Now you can etch the board in the usual way.

Or you can use the new, improved way without that nasty ferric chloride.
Plain old swimming pool etchant (muriatic acid -- 28% HCl) from the home
store plus plain old hydrogen peroxide (3%) from the drug store mixed 2:1
respectively does an admirable job at room temperature. Plus, when you
get
done, you have metallic copper (not a hazmat), hydrochloric acid (not a
hazmat), and the hydrogen peroxide which, within half an hour, has broken
down into oxygen (which has escaped into the air) and water. If you want
to
be totally environmentally friendly, you can neutralize the HCl with
baking
soda ($5.99 for ten pounds at the Charlie's Club places) before pouring
it
down the sink.

Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid

http://www.artmondo.net/printworks/articles/ferric.htm
Spent ferric chloride can be neutralized with soda as well.

Plus, I THIINK Ferric Chloride is the commonly available de-smuting
solution you need to anodize 2000 series aluminum.

For dyeing anodized aluminum, try RIT, or page through this catalog:
http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2934904-AA.shtml Sealing, I guess
you'll have to use clear lacquer.