lead tail ballast

Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!


schreef:

Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

stephanevdv wrote:


schreef:

Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?
If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!

Is it important to keep the tail wheel balanced?

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

"Transponders in Sailplanes" on the Soaring Safety Foundation website
www.soaringsafety.org/prevention/articles.html

"A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

"stephanevdv" wrote in message
ups.com...
If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!



Well, you probably won't get to add 6 lb this way - - at least on the
typical tailwheel (g). However, it is useful for balancing the tailwheel and
mainwheel/s too, assuming there's not a good spot for securing balance
weights with double sticky tape etc.

To balance wheels I use a static motorcycle wheel balance stand. Temporarily
balance wheel with modeling clay (plasticene). Weigh clay to determine
appropriate amount of lead to melt. Insert a small loop of safety wire into
the wheel cavity that is to hold weight, with loop of wire extending out of
cavity. Pour in molten lead, it will solidify almost immediately. Spray with
water to aid cooling (though I've not experienced any tire damage when not
cooling with water, as the aluminum wheel conducts heat away rapidly and the
amount of lead used to balance a wheel is typically small.

Remove lead weight using safety wire handle. Coat weight and wheel cavity
with contact cement and reinstall weight.

I've cast a lead weight in-place, using a mixture of lead shot, epoxy resin
and cut strands of fiberglass. Line the area, where the weight is to go with
Saran Wrap or plastic cling wrap to act as a release agent. Weigh the lead
shot and make an allowance for the weight of the epoxy resin. Mix epoxy
resin, lead shot and some cut glass fiber for strength (I cut strips of
fiberglass cloth and unwove it to get short strands) and pour mixture into
cavity. It will get warm as it cures. Be sure cavity is shaped so you can
later remove weight. If need be, you might install a suitable divider and
make weight in more than one piece if need be.

--
bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
Quiet Vent & MKII Yaw String

"Eric Greenwell" wrote in message
news:naL1h.4040$pU3.3154@trndny08...
possible
with a metal rim!

Is it important to keep the tail wheel balanced?

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

"Transponders in Sailplanes" on the Soaring Safety Foundation website
www.soaringsafety.org/prevention/articles.html

"A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

I suppose that depends on how big and/or how out of balance the tailwheel
is. When I owned a Stemme, I found that it made a difference. But there are
some that think I fuss needlessly over such minutia (g).

bumper

bumper wrote:
"stephanevdv" wrote in message
ups.com...
If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!



Well, you probably won't get to add 6 lb this way - - at least on the
typical tailwheel (g). However, it is useful for balancing the tailwheel and
mainwheel/s too, assuming there's not a good spot for securing balance
weights with double sticky tape etc.

To balance wheels I use a static motorcycle wheel balance stand. Temporarily
balance wheel with modeling clay (plasticene). Weigh clay to determine
appropriate amount of lead to melt. Insert a small loop of safety wire into
the wheel cavity that is to hold weight, with loop of wire extending out of
cavity. Pour in molten lead, it will solidify almost immediately. Spray with
water to aid cooling (though I've not experienced any tire damage when not
cooling with water, as the aluminum wheel conducts heat away rapidly and the
amount of lead used to balance a wheel is typically small.

Remove lead weight using safety wire handle. Coat weight and wheel cavity
with contact cement and reinstall weight.

I've cast a lead weight in-place, using a mixture of lead shot, epoxy resin
and cut strands of fiberglass. Line the area, where the weight is to go with
Saran Wrap or plastic cling wrap to act as a release agent. Weigh the lead
shot and make an allowance for the weight of the epoxy resin. Mix epoxy
resin, lead shot and some cut glass fiber for strength (I cut strips of
fiberglass cloth and unwove it to get short strands) and pour mixture into
cavity. It will get warm as it cures. Be sure cavity is shaped so you can
later remove weight. If need be, you might install a suitable divider and
make weight in more than one piece if need be.

--
bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
Quiet Vent & MKII Yaw String

It is a metal tail wheel with a pneumatic rubber tire. I would like to
keep the wheel as balanced as possible.
I think i've heard of someone bolting a strip of lead to the vertical
stabilizer spar. Is this a safe option?

D9

wrote:
Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?

------------

pik20_d9

Some ships (my LS8, for example) have an approved mounting bracket and
procedure. On the LS8, there's a convenient "pocket" between the aft
bulkhead on the vertical stab and the rudder.

The first place I'd look is the PIK maintenance manual.

If you don't have a tailwheel, I've seen some pretty slick designs
using the rubber tail skid. Essentially, part of the skid is hollowed
out and lead is poured in. You need to be a little careful in terms
of leaving enough wall thickness to take any side loads and maintain
the contour of the bonding surface, but it seems to work. It's hard
to get much more than a couple of pounds in there given the typical
skid dimensions.

One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
put you in touch.

wrote:
Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

A friend recently got a brass tailwheel for his DG300. The specific
gravity of brass is about 8.5, stainless steel 7.7, aluminum 2.64.
Just might work if your PIK has a tail wheel and any voids in the
aluminum wheel could be filled in a brass or stainless replacement.

Frank Whiteley

Jay wrote:
One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
put you in touch.

wrote:
Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

On 31 Oct 2006 16:18:23 -0800, "Frank Whiteley"
wrote:

A friend recently got a brass tailwheel for his DG300. The specific
gravity of brass is about 8.5, stainless steel 7.7, aluminum 2.64.
Just might work if your PIK has a tail wheel and any voids in the
aluminum wheel could be filled in a brass or stainless replacement.

Frank Whiteley

Jay wrote:
One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
put you in touch.

wrote:
Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9


I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.