Any A&Ps on the list? Discussing Cont. A-65

The following refers to an A-65 engine that had a wooden prop in
place, which survived a prop stike unbroken

Some terms were used by my mechanic and I'd like to see if my
understanding is correct:
He said he "dialed-out" the crankshaft and it was out of limits by
..004.
He explained that what he was measuring was the perpendicularity of
the flange (to which the prop mounts) to the crankshaft; that he was
measuring 'wobble'.
Is that a fair understanding of what "dialed-out" measures?
Can you take a guess at what we might find when we open the engine,
based on the "wobble"? - Any idea what the cost to repair might be?
Yeah, I'm grasping at straws - I just don't want to turn this aircraft
over to a salvage shop based on what could have been a $600 engine
repair.[it was this 'wobble' that set off the red light - not the
damage to the landing gear or the struts]
Any advice offered is appreciated.

Crankshaft replacement, possibly case work and at least a set of
gaskets. If you can find the crank, it'll be about a $3K job for a
good pro to do it.

On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 16:28:41 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote:

The following refers to an A-65 engine that had a wooden prop in
place, which survived a prop stike unbroken

Some terms were used by my mechanic and I'd like to see if my
understanding is correct:
He said he "dialed-out" the crankshaft and it was out of limits by
.004.
He explained that what he was measuring was the perpendicularity of
the flange (to which the prop mounts) to the crankshaft; that he was
measuring 'wobble'.
Is that a fair understanding of what "dialed-out" measures?
Can you take a guess at what we might find when we open the engine,
based on the "wobble"? - Any idea what the cost to repair might be?
Yeah, I'm grasping at straws - I just don't want to turn this aircraft
over to a salvage shop based on what could have been a $600 engine
repair.[it was this 'wobble' that set off the red light - not the
damage to the landing gear or the struts]
Any advice offered is appreciated.

"Gene Kearns" wrote:



IMHO, there is some hope that there isn't much damage to this engine
caused in an incident that didn't harm a wooden prop. Bear in mind,
though, it will be a gamble.

If the worst case is $3000, it's worth the gamble.
Cre to recommend a overhaul manual for said engine?
I see manuals from $9 to $69 on e-Bay; that's such a wide spread they
can't all be comprehensive - Mike

Stu/Gene - I see an engine stand for sale in Aircraft Spruce - it
looks as if it connected to the engine via the crankshaft.
Do folks do an O/H from that stand? Doesn't seem practical as the case
gets split apart to get to the crank. - MIke

"Gene Kearns" wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 19:33:43 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote:



I'm not crazy about that sort of stand, but it is widely used. Crank
is bolted to the stand and the case is assembled around the crank. It
does work.

How else have you seen someone work on an engine? On a bench?
Some other arrangement? - Mike

"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...
Stu/Gene - I see an engine stand for sale in Aircraft Spruce - it
looks as if it connected to the engine via the crankshaft.
Do folks do an O/H from that stand? Doesn't seem practical as the case
gets split apart to get to the crank. - MIke

When you unbutton the case halves they will fall away from the crank if you
don't watch it. Jugs are already off, of course, and you don't grab them by
the pushrod tubes. That's a sin.

Easy stand to work with. Watch out and don't let the hydraulic units fall
all over creation. They are mated to the lifter bodies and the parts of
the hydraulic units are mated. Buy several sizes of freezer bags and keep
everything scrupulously labeled and matched to their little appointed
places. Don't let anything rust.

The other kind of stand bolts to half of the case and keeps the crankshaft
horizontal. Ideally you use this stand first when assembling an engine,
then go to the stand with the crankshaft vertical, especially when
installing the jugs. Some people even install the engine on the aircraft
before the jugs go on. An A-65 is easily buttoned up on a bench with
wooden blocks to let the rods protrude, after you have torqued the rod bolts
on the vertical stand, then you go back and set her upright on the ACS-type
vertical stand and torque the nuts fastening the case halves together, then
.... Don't let the rods bang against the case. I use foam pipe insulators
and rubber bands to keep them from slapping around.

Lots of fun. The manual and all the bulletins are straightforward. Very
few AD's on this engine.

Michael, you can borrow my manual. Read it cover to cover before you
start. It's not very thick. Make sure you drain all the oil from the
hydraulic units so you can check for dry rocker arm clearance.

An IA swore to me just last week, "An engine overhaul is NOT a major
repair."

That should invite a flame or two.

"Gene Kearns" wrote:
e

I've been through the Lycoming and Continental factories and
schools.... while they have slightly more efficient methods for
"assembly line" output..... the method of holding the parts is less
important that the attention to detail at assembly..... don't obsess
on the hardware......

I understand Gene, but I've overhauled car engines on engine stands
and I worked on them while in the engine compartment, and work is more
relaxed and comfortable when the engine is where I can easily get at
it, so I'm thinking how best to go about this - Mike

" jls" wrote in message . ..
An IA swore to me just last week, "An engine overhaul is NOT a major
repair."

In the sense that it's not a form 337, it's not a major repair. I
guess it depends on WHY the overhaul is taking place. In this case,
an argument for a 337 might be reasonable. Or, was the engine near
overhaul time (calendar or hours) in any case?

-Malcolm Teas
"Landing can't be that hard, birds do it."