Interior Paint

I'm ready to paint my plastic as part of an interior project. I've
painted a couple of pieces with Rustoleum plastic primer, and then with
the appropriate color of gloss enamel. They've turned out acceptably,
but I'm thinking that the "gloss" is a bit loud. I chose the gloss
enamel initially because I felt that it would be the most durable. A
Rustoleum satin or semi-gloss may be more cosmetically desirable.

I know that folks recommend SEM and other vinyl paints. I've also had a
recommendation for Krylon (I assume the enamel similar to Rustoleum.)
How durable is SEM? Is that what I should be using? For the pieces that
I've already painted, can I just paint over them, or do I need to strip
them somehow without trashing the plastic?


Thanks,
JKG

Jonathan Goodish wrote:
I'm ready to paint my plastic as part of an interior project. I've
painted a couple of pieces with Rustoleum plastic primer, and then with
the appropriate color of gloss enamel.

I know that folks recommend SEM and other vinyl paints. I've also had a
recommendation for Krylon (I assume the enamel similar to Rustoleum.)
How durable is SEM? Is that what I should be using? For the pieces that
I've already painted, can I just paint over them, or do I need to strip
them somehow without trashing the plastic?

A lot depends upon the wear level the part is expected to see. For
things like window trim I've used straight Krylon after cleaning the
part well - works great and still good after 10 years. For high wear
areas (like door trim or panel) the SEM is clearly a stronger bond.

If you are only concerned about the gloss, how about just a light
buffing with a very fine steel wool (and a good wash to remove any
remaining fibers)? Unfortunately, Rustoleum and most other paints
don't like each other. In general, Rustoleum and Krylon will react
rather viciously. You can almost use one as a solvent to remove the
other.

One other thing that I have had recommended, especially on metal parts.
Paint with Krylon, then bake in the kitchen oven for a few days (low
heat). Really hardens the paint and improves the bond. Close to the
baked on enamel we use for commercial panels. Does smell up the
kitchen a bit, and of course on plastic parts one would have to take
great care not to wind up with object d'art. G

"Does smell up the
kitchen a bit, and of course on plastic parts one would..."

So does my cooking!!!!!
"jmk" wrote in message
ps.com...

Jonathan Goodish wrote:
I'm ready to paint my plastic as part of an interior project. I've
painted a couple of pieces with Rustoleum plastic primer, and then with
the appropriate color of gloss enamel.

I know that folks recommend SEM and other vinyl paints. I've also had a
recommendation for Krylon (I assume the enamel similar to Rustoleum.)
How durable is SEM? Is that what I should be using? For the pieces that
I've already painted, can I just paint over them, or do I need to strip
them somehow without trashing the plastic?

A lot depends upon the wear level the part is expected to see. For
things like window trim I've used straight Krylon after cleaning the
part well - works great and still good after 10 years. For high wear
areas (like door trim or panel) the SEM is clearly a stronger bond.

If you are only concerned about the gloss, how about just a light
buffing with a very fine steel wool (and a good wash to remove any
remaining fibers)? Unfortunately, Rustoleum and most other paints
don't like each other. In general, Rustoleum and Krylon will react
rather viciously. You can almost use one as a solvent to remove the
other.

One other thing that I have had recommended, especially on metal parts.
Paint with Krylon, then bake in the kitchen oven for a few days (low
heat). Really hardens the paint and improves the bond. Close to the
baked on enamel we use for commercial panels. Does smell up the
kitchen a bit, and of course on plastic parts one would have to take
great care not to wind up with object d'art. G

Here was my reply to Jonathan's separate e-,ail to me:

Yes, I used the Rustoleum plastic paint. It is still sticking and I have
not noticed any nicks or scrapes. But my plane get the kid glove
treatment most of the time. I prepared the surface by damp rag wiping
followed by degreasing/dewaxing using a 3M adhesive cleaner, just as I
would do to prep an auto or plane exterior. I scuffed the plastic with
a fine scotchbrite pad. Finally before paint, I wiped them down and
used a tack rag. I did not use primer.

The gloss will not be noticeable. If you don't like it, you can lightly
go over the surface with 0000 steel wool to knock down the shine. I
prefer the gloss look right out of the can. It is not THAT shiny.

As I stated in one of my posts, the trouble is the color. it is BRIGHT
WHITE - Polar white. The rest of the plane is off white to cream. After
using the white shoe polish trick on the original headliner, it looks
much whiter and an acceptable match. I did the window surrounds and now
have to drop the overhead stuff to get it to match closer. Also, the
padded door welting is between the plastic on the door and the
headliner. When I redid the welting vinyl, I "split the difference" in
color between the headliner and the door plastic. I attached a picture
showing the plastic, door welting, and headliner next to each other.

I had no plans to repaint the hat shelf, but it is so discolored
compared the the WHITE window stuff, I may actually repaint the thing.

In retrospect, I would used the SEM stuff for better color match. I used
one can to do all the window trim. You would need two cans to do
anything else in addition to the window trim.The SEM stuff is expensive,
but you only need a can or two.

I also replaced the soft vinyl window edging. Bought it from one of the
plane plastic outfits. The original stuff was downright YELLOW and
stiff. The new stuff fit way better since it is so flexible.

The center "hat section" of my plane was nicely sanded and prepped for
paint when they replaced the windshields. Unfortunately, they put the
new glass in and FORGOT to paint the section. It remains that way now 12
years later. It has not bugged me enough to finish it. Nobody notices it
unless I point it out.

Tips are to take a look at the entire scope of what you are doing and
decide how far you want to go. I did the plastic, the door welting, wall
panels, seat slings/foam/covers, carpeting, the armrests, new seat
belts, new Ram's horn control wheels, a new plastic instrument panel
plastic cover (the black one over the instruments), and paint with
leather control yoke wraps. If you just do one thing, it makes
everything else look awful. I also included a snap of the instrument
panel. Right after I took it, I replaced the 2 lower strips where the
vinyl was coming loose with the same lambskin as the yokes. There is
always something to be done.

So, choose carefully.


Jonathan Goodish wrote:
I'm ready to paint my plastic as part of an interior project. I've
painted a couple of pieces with Rustoleum plastic primer, and then with
the appropriate color of gloss enamel. They've turned out acceptably,
but I'm thinking that the "gloss" is a bit loud. I chose the gloss
enamel initially because I felt that it would be the most durable. A
Rustoleum satin or semi-gloss may be more cosmetically desirable.

I know that folks recommend SEM and other vinyl paints. I've also had a
recommendation for Krylon (I assume the enamel similar to Rustoleum.)
How durable is SEM? Is that what I should be using? For the pieces that
I've already painted, can I just paint over them, or do I need to strip
them somehow without trashing the plastic?


Thanks,
JKG