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Contest Numbers/Letters
I can remember how enjoyable it was to paint my wing numbers on my first 15
ship. It was kind of a right of passage. Taking them off and repainting again was not so much fun ... for as we all know, the letters have to be right side up when you viewed from the ground as you approach the gate i.e. the top of letter should be along leading edge. At least I didn't have letters on both wings as Gleb did in The Sunship Game. :-)) Since we don't need 2- 3 foot letters for ground viewing, how about allowing 6" letters behind the gear doors for thermal/gaggle identification. (BTW, I have actually been in thermals so crowded, I could not see the wing numbers of the glider above and just outside me ... because his fuse was in the way. I could see his gear doors ... and hinge rivets ...real fine, though.) KK -- Ken Kochanski |
#2
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ID's behind the gear doors would be beneficial for
the fiberglass furball situations, but I would definitely keep the BIG LETTERS under the wing. Since I gave up on trying to make the time match with suitable weather for painting my numbers, I 'cheaped out' and went for the 'simple' stick-on vinyls. Boy, did I screw those up. Boy, are there a lot of corners on the letter 'W' and those corners makes it hard for one with ten thumbs and no guidance! My ID is 'W8'. For unknown reason, I started with the 'W' on the left side of the fin. So, the 'W' was placed with much cussing due to wrinkles (isn't that what the 'W' stands for?). Next came the '8' which went on the left side of the rudder. That disaster completed, I moved to the right side. Hmm, I started with the 'W' on the fin on the left side, I'll start with the 'W' on the fin on the right. For a moment there, I was thinking of being 'W8' for those to my port side and '8W' for those on my starboard... Is there a book yet entitled 'Gliders and Gliding for Idiots'??? Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA LS-1d 'W8' At 23:48 29 September 2003, Ken Kochanski wrote: I can remember how enjoyable it was to paint my wing numbers on my first 15 ship. It was kind of a right of passage. Taking them off and repainting again was not so much fun ... for as we all know, the letters have to be right side up when you viewed from the ground as you approach the gate i.e. the top of letter should be along leading edge. At least I didn't have letters on both wings as Gleb did in The Sunship Game. :-)) Since we don't need 2- 3 foot letters for ground viewing, how about allowing 6' letters behind the gear doors for thermal/gaggle identification. (BTW, I have actually been in thermals so crowded, I could not see the wing numbers of the glider above and just outside me ... because his fuse was in the way. I could see his gear doors ... and hinge rivets ...real fine, though.) KK -- Ken Kochanski |
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I learned about the soapy water method after I applied
the letters to the tail. :-( However, when I did the wing, I had not only soapy water, but also an extra pair of hands. Those big letters went on a lot easier and without wrinkles due to both. Ray At 20:06 01 October 2003, Todd Pattist wrote: Ray Lovinggood wrote: So, the 'W' was placed with much cussing due to wrinkles (isn't that what the 'W' stands for?). Did you use water with soap on the adhesive side of the letters, or try the dreaded 'dry' method? Todd Pattist - 'WH' Ventus C (Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.) |
#4
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In article , Todd Pattist
writes: Ray Lovinggood wrote: I learned about the soapy water method after I applied the letters to the tail. :-( I applied one side dry too, then learned the soapy wet method. Fortunately, I started on the trailer's fin :-) Todd Pattist - "WH" Ventus C I'll be putting contest numbers on my new to me glider. I've done it before, but what is the "soapy water method? Thanks, Steve |
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"Steve Bralla" wrote in message ... In article , Todd Pattist writes: I'll be putting contest numbers on my new to me glider. I've done it before, but what is the "soapy water method? Thanks, Steve Add a few drops of liquid hand dishwashing detergent to a spray bottle full of water. Spray solution onto surface before applying decal. This will allow decal to be precisely positioned and moved on the surface as necessary. Squeegee out all moisture from under decal. You can use a plastic squeegee for this or even a damp rag. Once you have all the bumps and bubbles out, leave it alone for a few hours and the sticker will be on there. -- bumper - ZZ "Dare to be different . . . circle in sink." to reply, the last half is right to left --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date: 9/23/2003 |
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