Inexpensive wiring conduit idea

On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:32:28 -0700, "Tim Ward"
wrote:

One idea I read years ago was to use thin mylar sheet. Roll it tightly
into a tube, slip it through the holes, then turn it loose. It'll uncoil
until it makes contact with the edges of the holes, then run your wires
through it.

Ron Wanttaja
I like it; can you get it in long enough sheets (at an affordable price)
to reach at least from tip to inspection plate and inspection plate to
root?

My plan so far has been to try the same technique using thin AL flashing
material from Home Depot a/c supply, but this sounds just as light
without the risk of cutting the wire on the AL.

Charlie

McMaster-Carr has polyester (generic for Mylar) film in rolls up to 25 feet.

You might also consider Tyvek -- which is a non-woven (paper-like) sheet
made of polyester.
It's used as vapor barrier in housing, but I don't know if it would be stiff
enough.

FWIW, from DuPont's website, "Tyvek® is DuPont's brand of spun-bonded
olefin - a high-tech fabric created" by DuPont from high-density
polyethylene (HDPE)

On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 22:33:09 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Tim Ward" wrote

You might also consider Tyvek -- which is a non-woven (paper-like) sheet
made of polyester.
It's used as vapor barrier in housing, but I don't know if it would be
stiff
enough.

Tim Ward

No, not stiff enough.

Jim (the house building contractor) in NC


Jim, you missed a chance to correct a common misconception. Tyvek is
NOT a vapor barrier. It is similar to GoreTex clothing. It allows
vapor to escape while blocking wind and water droplets.

"Andy Asberry" wrote

Jim, you missed a chance to correct a common misconception. Tyvek is
NOT a vapor barrier. It is similar to GoreTex clothing. It allows
vapor to escape while blocking wind and water droplets.

chuckle You are SO right! I was so fixated on the "stiffness factor",
that I didn't even think about the other factor.

A bit more of the history of Tyvec, and the other dozen or so copies, since
it was introduced.

As energy demands drove houses to be tighter, and tighter, some systems like
the synthetic stucco, formed a vapor barrier on the outside of the house.
It was already common practice to put a vapor barrier on the inside of the
walls, either with Kraft faced insulation, or a sheet of plastic. Soon
there were big problems, with walls rotting from the inside out. What vapor
did seep through the walls from the inside, condensed, and could not get
out, because of the barrier on the outside, thus the rot. What was needed
was a product to let the vapor out, without letting the wind blow through,
thus Tyvec was born.
--
Jim in NC

On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 10:05:01 -0500, Charlie England
wrote:

Ron Wanttaja wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 17:53:07 GMT, wrote:


Howdy,

I've been thinking about how to run wires in an aluminum wing that is already
finished. I can fish something through the holes in the ribs, but I don't
want to just let a wire or cable lay on the raw edges of the rib holes.


One idea I read years ago was to use thin mylar sheet. Roll it tightly
into a tube, slip it through the holes, then turn it loose. It'll uncoil
until it makes contact with the edges of the holes, then run your wires
through it.

Ron Wanttaja
I like it; can you get it in long enough sheets (at an affordable price)
to reach at least from tip to inspection plate and inspection plate to root?

My plan so far has been to try the same technique using thin AL flashing
material from Home Depot a/c supply, but this sounds just as light
without the risk of cutting the wire on the AL.

Visit your local hardware store. They should have it in rolls of
varying thickness for use in windows, coverings, etc...

One thing about using either tubing, or Mylar. If the stuff is stuck
in place using resin, or even one of the Silastic RTVs it is less
likely to wear through and tubing is less likely to make noise if it
is "stuck" in place.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Charlie