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#21
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What gives, BS? Perhaps I'm reading you all wrong, but... Ah, well, perhaps I wasn't being clear. written. If you continue to shadow me, I believe you may find it a less than pleasant or rewarding experience. I didn't mean to shadow you. Let me try again: I used to follow RAH regularly, and post occasionally. I followed your posts because 1.) They frequently had good information in them, and 2.) they were sometimes funny. In that order; and thanks for both. I'm interested in the idea of auto conversions, electronic ignition, and electronic fuel injection. I _want_ those things to work out for the homebuilt community. You have strong opinions on those issues, and a lot of what you have written has made sense. It's made me question my own position; rational discourse is a good thing. This is rec.aviation.homebuilt, not wreck.bob.urban. Got it. But you have to admit that it's kinda catchy. B.S. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Catchy it is. g Ben, I see you have a good heart. My apologies for figuring you wrong. BOb U. |
#22
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On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 11:55:19 +0100, Philippe Vessaire
wrote: Larry Smith a écrit: A friend in Florida rigged up his own non-magneto ignition robbed from a late-model motorcycle and installed it on his O-200-powered Murphy Renegade. If I recall correctly he has it set up to advance itself as much as 35 degrees. Any more anecdotes about nonstandard ignition boxes? I just completed a similar thing. An old magneto without coil, points... I drill the distributor and bolt two magnetic sensor at 90° angle I made a steel plate in the distributor gear for one pulse each 180° I purchased a CDI box from M&W (http://www.mwignition.com) and two coils. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Philippe, http://www.mwignition.com) = no address for host I would love to build what you have. Any way to get FULL details? I realize there are some folks here afraid to even post tires pressures, but what the hell... can't hurt to ask. g FWIW... In the mid 60's, I built a transistor ignition setup. It worked, sorta'.. but no way would I have trusted my life to it in an airplane. Reliability was an issue. A couple years later, I built a CDI - a lot better.... but still nothing I would install/trust in an airplane. I'm a pretty damn good tech, but no EE..... or suicide candidate. Barnyard BOb -- 50 years of successful flight |
#23
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- Barnyard BOb - wrote:
This is rec.aviation.homebuilt, not wreck.bob.urban. Got it. But you have to admit that it's kinda catchy. B.S. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Catchy it is. g Ben, I see you have a good heart. My apologies for figuring you wrong. BOb U. None necessary, but thanks. B.S. |
#24
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- Barnyard BOb - a écrit:
http://www.mwignition.com) = no address for host Sorry http://www.mwignitions.com other URLs http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition1.pdf http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition2.pdf http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition3.pdf I would love to build what you have. Any way to get FULL details? From the gear: 1-)an old Slick magneto (4000 serie) with impulse. I remove all things I can (coil, point, ....) I drill 8mm holes in the distributor cap and rear plate I remove the distributor arm inside the distributor gear I cut a target steel (1,2mm thick or 3/64") and glue it inside the distributor gear. This target give two pulses for one gear turn, or two crackshaft turns. I get one pulse each crackshaft turn for one sensor. 2-) two magnetic sensors from RScomponents pepperl+fuchs NBB1.5-8GM50-E0 The sensors are bolts on the rear plate (1mm gap between target and sensor). Their positions are 3 and 4 but may be 4&2, 2&1, 1&3. 3-) CDI box PRO12 and coils from M&W ignitions. The coils are bolt on the engine case, the CDI box on firewall. You may purchase same box from MOTEC. This box provide input and output for a distributorless 4 cylinders engine, a 6 cylinders box is available. 4-) HT wires: automotive "spiral" type , plug cap NGK 5000 ohm resistor, plug NGK BR8EV. Aircaftsrpuce plug adapter (PN 08-06753). 4-) wiring all together (10 wires), a switch for -12V ON wire (another +12V wire wthout switch). The spark sequence is 1&2, 3&4, 1&2, ....... No distributor, no EMI noise, iddle very smooth and very easy start à 0°C (32°F). The cost around one half of a new magneto. The fisrt test is with plugs outside of the engine, turning propeller with hands and checking the #1 spark position and when the spack is comming (LED on or LED off) For advance setting, the sensors have LED in their back. When LED ON, the advance is OK. I have two spare holes in the magneto for a second CDI set. Please, send me your Email for target photo. By -- Philippe Vessaire Ò¿Ó¬ |
#25
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#26
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Sorry http://www.mwignitions.com other URLs http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition1.pdf http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition2.pdf http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition3.pdf target photo. http://vessaire.philippe.free.fr/allumage/cible.jpg No distributor, no EMI noise, iddle very smooth and very easy start à 0°C (32°F). The cost around one half of a new magneto. -- Philippe Vessaire Ò¿Ó¬ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Many thanks, Philippe. Please keep us informed of your experiences as you continue with this project. With the costs coming in at half of a new magneto and having to pay something for useable mag guts... an experimenter might want more input about how successful this homebrew ignition is in an aircraft before committing. I've related my past experiences with DIY electronic ignitions and none were deemed worthy by my standards for aircraft. The monies spent turned out to really be wasted. However, the time spent and things learned were worth a lot. So, I'm slow to get excited these days, but extremely interested in your efforts, successes and failures as you progress. Hmmmm. Thinking aloud.... I wonder if Jim Weir/RST would take on an electronic ignition project? What about it Jim? bg Barnyard BOb -- |
#27
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- Barnyard BOb - a écrit:
So, I'm slow to get excited these days, but extremely interested in your efforts, successes and failures as you progress. it don't matter.... About electronic ignition: as a simple curent amplifier, it is not really the best way for efficiency. The realiability may be good if you take amplifier module from last '80s cars (see http://www.transpo.de ) A CDI ignition: I used such a system in my firsts cars (the same box moving from one to another.... I see the advantage of discharge: hight output at low rpm, no current in coil if engine not running and switch ON, no dwell sensitivity.... With my plane, I want reliability AND efficiency. First choice: CDI system, less coil solicitation. I don't want multispark systems neither single output. After I search for simple CDI able to drive distributorless set of coils. I found M&W or Motec (same box) I am not afraid about electronics and battery dependent ignition. I have 12 hours battery ignition range and only 4 hours tank range... And remember '60s engine Potez, equiped with point and coil dual ignition. Another point of vue: how many planes fly with VW, single point ignition engine? I feel good with a magneto and a full solid state distributorless CDI ignition. And when I will acheive 40-50 hours like that, I will build a second CDI set. By -- Philippe Vessaire Ò¿Ó¬ |
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