A aviation & planes forum. AviationBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » AviationBanter forum » rec.aviation newsgroups » Soaring
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old May 30th 20, 01:52 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Shaun Wheeler
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 86
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 11:32:14 PM UTC-5, Charles Longley wrote:
Well it’s not a FAA AD yet. Anyone know if there’s a NPRM for it yet?


Not yet. It's probably just a matter of time if EASA has already adopted a standard method of compliance and applicability.
  #32  
Old June 3rd 20, 02:59 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
David Cleveland
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

On Sunday, May 10, 2020 at 3:40:32 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2020 at 2:55:29 PM UTC-4, okko kloosterman wrote:
Could you give some information on the required tool modifications?
Thanks.
OK


9-5-2020 19:52 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 10:17:09 AM UTC-4, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below

http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf

Our Grob 102 Astir CS had the "welded version" elevator pushrod consistent with the Service Bulletin.

BTW: All the hardware requires 10 mm wrenches. The elevator pushrod bolt & nut required a modified box wrenches.

Chuck Zabinski


The 10 mm box wrenches were ground down to thin the outer circular support structure that supports the gripping teeth. This lets the wrench fit into bolt access recess in the rudder. Even with that, a slight amount of Dremel work may be required to get the wrench to fit on the bolt nut. Also small hands and patience are required to remove the elevator pushrod bolt.

Chuck Zabinski


Chuck, can you take a photo of the 10mm wrench after modification? Our club has 5 G-103, four of which are affected by this SB. We are looking at the inspection, but it sounds like your tool mod would be good prep work. Can you post or send me a photo of the tool after modification?

David
  #33  
Old June 3rd 20, 07:40 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Alex Fordham
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

I've just done our Astir CS.

A few tips:

Lifting the tail onto a tressle for better access made it a lot easier. You will also need to adjust the trim to get the bell crank in a suitable position for disassembly. If i remember right, about 3/4 stick back was about right.

To get the lower rudder bolt off, a standard 10mm open end spanner fits on vertically (not side on as normal) and wedged into the small gap between the rudder and fin. Allen key in the bolt on top. I was a bit worried about the spanner damaging the rudder , but the release torque on the bolt was pretty low so no trouble here.

Access to the nut/bolt at the bottom of the pushrod is tricky, but possible (I have big hands so at a bit of a disadvantage here!) You'll need 2x 10mm spanners, one with a ratchet. Ours was installed with the bolt through from the left (close to the fin skin) and the nut on the right, open side. I would recommend keeping it this way as getting the nut on the skin side would be tricky to say the least.
Open end spanner on the bolt head, ideally with a bit of tape on the back side to prevent it from falling off. Ratchet spanner on the nut. The open end spanner will need bracing on the bottom of the fin (left hand) and the nut loosened with the right hand. Light pressure on the ratchet spanner is needed to stop it falling off the nut, which means you have to put your hand quite far in, restricting the ratchet motion to 1 or 2 clicks. Not a quick job in other words! Be careful when taking the nut off as it can fall into the tail boom through the bulkhead holes and is a bugger to get back out (don't ask!)

Drilling the hole is straight forward, although not sure how they expect you to deburr the inside of the hole!?

I took the chance to restore the paint on the rod, as I didn't fancy ever having to take it out again!

Reassembly posed its own challenges, especially as a 1 man job. Ideally you will have someone to hold the rod in position from above while you reassemble the joint, but if not you can rest the pushrod on the bellcrank with the correct trim position. 2 problems:
1. The bolt was too long to fit back in between the rod and the fin skin
2. I couldnt get both hands in to push the bolt in while holding the rod in the correct position
I used the other bolt off the rudder/pushrod connection, and partially inserted the win the wrong (right!) side of the joint to align it, then inserted the actual bolt in the correct way, coming in from above at downward angle to fit in the tight gap. Then remove the rudder bolt and push the main bolt in all the way. Similar setup with taped spanner & ratchet spanner to re-assemble and same strategy for the rudder hinge bolt

No corrosion in ours either, and that is with a very leaky trailer!

The club Twin II Acro has been another story altogether, seems that the wrong pushrod (rivetted version) was installed and impossible to remove through conventional means, so a few new holes going in that one by the looks of it
  #34  
Old June 3rd 20, 08:32 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
soaringjac
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 11:40:37 AM UTC-7, Alex Fordham wrote:
I've just done our Astir CS.

A few tips:

Lifting the tail onto a tressle for better access made it a lot easier. You will also need to adjust the trim to get the bell crank in a suitable position for disassembly. If i remember right, about 3/4 stick back was about right.

To get the lower rudder bolt off, a standard 10mm open end spanner fits on vertically (not side on as normal) and wedged into the small gap between the rudder and fin. Allen key in the bolt on top. I was a bit worried about the spanner damaging the rudder , but the release torque on the bolt was pretty low so no trouble here.

Access to the nut/bolt at the bottom of the pushrod is tricky, but possible (I have big hands so at a bit of a disadvantage here!) You'll need 2x 10mm spanners, one with a ratchet. Ours was installed with the bolt through from the left (close to the fin skin) and the nut on the right, open side. I would recommend keeping it this way as getting the nut on the skin side would be tricky to say the least.
Open end spanner on the bolt head, ideally with a bit of tape on the back side to prevent it from falling off. Ratchet spanner on the nut. The open end spanner will need bracing on the bottom of the fin (left hand) and the nut loosened with the right hand. Light pressure on the ratchet spanner is needed to stop it falling off the nut, which means you have to put your hand quite far in, restricting the ratchet motion to 1 or 2 clicks. Not a quick job in other words! Be careful when taking the nut off as it can fall into the tail boom through the bulkhead holes and is a bugger to get back out (don't ask!)

Drilling the hole is straight forward, although not sure how they expect you to deburr the inside of the hole!?

I took the chance to restore the paint on the rod, as I didn't fancy ever having to take it out again!

Reassembly posed its own challenges, especially as a 1 man job. Ideally you will have someone to hold the rod in position from above while you reassemble the joint, but if not you can rest the pushrod on the bellcrank with the correct trim position. 2 problems:
1. The bolt was too long to fit back in between the rod and the fin skin
2. I couldnt get both hands in to push the bolt in while holding the rod in the correct position
I used the other bolt off the rudder/pushrod connection, and partially inserted the win the wrong (right!) side of the joint to align it, then inserted the actual bolt in the correct way, coming in from above at downward angle to fit in the tight gap. Then remove the rudder bolt and push the main bolt in all the way. Similar setup with taped spanner & ratchet spanner to re-assemble and same strategy for the rudder hinge bolt

No corrosion in ours either, and that is with a very leaky trailer!

The club Twin II Acro has been another story altogether, seems that the wrong pushrod (rivetted version) was installed and impossible to remove through conventional means, so a few new holes going in that one by the looks of it


Thanks for all this great info Alex, very much appreciated!
  #35  
Old August 3rd 20, 02:10 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
soaringjac
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below

http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf


Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so we have to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life.
  #36  
Old August 3rd 20, 03:29 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Michael Opitz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 318
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

At 01:10 03 August 2020, soaringjac wrote:
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below


http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-sb.html?

file=tl_files/ltb_lindner/pdf/G%20102%20LTA%20%26%20TM%20Engli
sch/SB-G09_elevator%20pushrod_200408.pdf

Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so

we have
to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life.


We had a Twin Astir fail too. LTB Lindner no longer requires the old
part to be sent back to them. I gave them the model and serial
number, and they were able to supply a new part. They ran my
credit card last Friday (31 Jul) and shipped it UPS Express. I got it
this morning (3 Aug). They are now shut down for summer vacation
for the next 3 weeks, but otherwise, I have found them to be quite
responsive. I don't know if i would have been able to get the part
any faster if it had come from a USA dealer/factory.

RO

  #37  
Old August 3rd 20, 03:48 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
soaringjac
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 7:30:04 AM UTC-7, Michael Opitz wrote:
At 01:10 03 August 2020, soaringjac wrote:
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below


http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-sb.html?

file=tl_files/ltb_lindner/pdf/G%20102%20LTA%20%26%20TM%20Engli
sch/SB-G09_elevator%20pushrod_200408.pdf

Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so

we have
to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life.


We had a Twin Astir fail too. LTB Lindner no longer requires the old
part to be sent back to them. I gave them the model and serial
number, and they were able to supply a new part. They ran my
credit card last Friday (31 Jul) and shipped it UPS Express. I got it
this morning (3 Aug). They are now shut down for summer vacation
for the next 3 weeks, but otherwise, I have found them to be quite
responsive. I don't know if i would have been able to get the part
any faster if it had come from a USA dealer/factory.

RO


Linder has been very responsive everytime I have dealt with them, and shipping is pretty quick. Unfortunately, like you said, they are closed for about he next month. So my ship is out of commission now until they open back up and i can order the part from them . Bad timing.
  #38  
Old August 8th 20, 04:14 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Larry Ruggiero
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 33
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

Our Astir 102CS was a bit of a bugger to access. We removed the rudder, which was easy enough, but that pushrod lower clevis thru bolt was tough. It took two of us and a special long 1/4” drive wrench to remove and replace. We erred on the side of caution ahead of time and ordered a new one via Roger Mudd. Was north of $500. Turns out our original one was fine. Note that not all 103’s are affected—ours isn’t.

Larry Ruggiero, Carolina Soaring Assoc, Spartanburg SC
  #39  
Old August 8th 20, 12:26 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
okko kloosterman[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs

With my Astir CS I didn't have much difficulty:* removing the lower
rudder bolt was done with a 10mm open end wrench used vertically and the
pushrod bolt went loose easily (= normal force applied). Lindner even
added three new nuts with the ste I ordered.
No moisture and no rust inside the rod, so no problem...

Okko (Netherlands)


Op 8-8-2020 om 5:14 schreef Larry Ruggiero:
Our Astir 102CS was a bit of a bugger to access. We removed the rudder, which was easy enough, but that pushrod lower clevis thru bolt was tough. It took two of us and a special long 1/4” drive wrench to remove and replace. We erred on the side of caution ahead of time and ordered a new one via Roger Mudd. Was north of $500. Turns out our original one was fine. Note that not all 103’s are affected—ours isn’t.

Larry Ruggiero, Carolina Soaring Assoc, Spartanburg SC


 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Elevator for Schweizer 2-22 Steve Soaring 7 December 8th 11 01:55 AM
(USA) WTB: ASW-27 elevator Tuno Soaring 1 May 12th 10 02:48 AM
Jammed Elevator Dale Piloting 43 September 14th 04 05:43 AM
Astir Elevator JD Soaring 0 May 10th 04 06:44 AM
K-13 TO k-7 elevator Vassilios Mazis Soaring 1 August 31st 03 07:25 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2024 AviationBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.