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#1
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molding plexiglas websites?
Hi all,
I'm want to replace the windows in my airplane and want to make my own. I've got an oven, piece of plexiglas and the old window. Are there any good websites with information on how to do this without killing myself? Thanks Dave |
#2
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wrote in message ... Hi all, I'm want to replace the windows in my airplane and want to make my own. I've got an oven, piece of plexiglas and the old window. It's NOT Plexiglass- It's Lexan. Lot's of info he http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+form+lexan Edwin |
#3
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On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 17:35:51 -0800, "--" wrote:
wrote in message ... Hi all, I'm want to replace the windows in my airplane and want to make my own. I've got an oven, piece of plexiglas and the old window. It's NOT Plexiglass- It's Lexan. Lot's of info he http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+form+lexan Edwin Edwin baby, unless you know what kind of airplane it's from, your answer is rather presumptive. Plexiglas is much easier to heat form. Ed Sullivan |
#4
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It IS plexiglas- It's not lexan.
I've googled and haven't seen what I want yet. Thanks dave -- wrote: wrote in message ... Hi all, I'm want to replace the windows in my airplane and want to make my own. I've got an oven, piece of plexiglas and the old window. It's NOT Plexiglass- It's Lexan. Lot's of info he http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+form+lexan Edwin |
#5
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When I was in A&P school, we heated it ( can't remember what to ) then
formed it over a mold by hand using clean white cotton gloves being careful not to stay in one spot too long. wrote in message ... It IS plexiglas- It's not lexan. I've googled and haven't seen what I want yet. Thanks dave -- wrote: wrote in message ... Hi all, I'm want to replace the windows in my airplane and want to make my own. I've got an oven, piece of plexiglas and the old window. It's NOT Plexiglass- It's Lexan. Lot's of info he http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+form+lexan Edwin |
#6
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#7
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"George A. Graham" wrote in message ... On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 wrote: It IS plexiglas- I made mine (windows and website) 1. make a structure the shape of the window. Mine was wood scraps, holding thin aluminum sheet bent to shape. 2. Cover the form with felt. 3. Place plexiglass on top of form into an oven (I made that also). 4. Heat slowly until the plastic softens and drapes over the form. The temp will be about 300 deg F. 5. Cool slowly, sudden temp changes warp it. 6. Finish cut to size when happy with the shape. I found the instructions in a book titled "Making Props", which I thought was about propellers, but was instead about theater props. George Graham RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266 Details about the oven? Way back when I formed plexi after heating in a box with about 4 light bulbs... |
#8
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George or Richard,
A little off the subject. A fellow at my airport had heard of a method to remove scratches. It involved plastic, I think acrylic, figurines and a propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was wondering if anyone had any such knowledge. My yet-to-be installed, 20year old canopy was lightly sanded with the wrong grit and scratched up both inside and outside. After researching the methods available to sand/polish them out and considering greatly differing opinions, I'd like to find another method short of buying/making a new canopy. Thanks, Dick |
#9
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On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Dick wrote:
propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was Well, You must know that you can sand out the scratches, and save the canopy. However, it may be more work than it's worth. So long as you are prepared to purchase another, and they are available, why not experiment. I've seen scratch remover sold for eyeglasses that I'd try first. I cannot imagine the torch idea leaving a clear view through the canopy, and removing the waves is as much work as removing the scratches. George Graham RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266 |
#10
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On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Blueskies wrote:
Details about the oven? That would depend on the size of the windows. I made mine out of foil faced rigid insulation board, held into box shape with duct tape, the handyman's secret weapon. The tape went soft and let go when heated, so I had to use nails into wood corner strips. It was four by three by two feet overall. A baseboard heater three feet long was modified to eliminate the tip-over switch, so that it could lay flat on it's back on the floor of the oven. I had a thermometer stuck through the wall, and controlled the heater by unplugging it. The lid was hinged so that I could peek inside to watch the window. Certainly disposable. George Graham RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266 |
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