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Hangar Insulation & Lighting?
I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from this area have any vendors that they can recommend? I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective products would be greatly appreciated! :-) Thank, Bryan Lakeville, MN |
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"B. Jensen" wrote: I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Options tend to be fiberglass batts and foam panels. Fiberglass is cheaper and doesn't burn as well. It can be held in place with spring wire placed between joists or by stapling chicken wire to structures to hold it in (among other techniques). One disadvantage is that rodents like to make nests in it. Many types of foam are flammable, some highly so, but the panels can be glued in place with construction adhesive. I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? The most cost-effective lighting is fluorescent. Standard ballasts don't work well below about 60 degrees, however, so you need commercial fixtures. Home Depot in this area sells Simkar commercial units with ballasts that work down to below freezing, but even that isn't going to be good enough for deep winter where you are. Halogens work in about any temperature, but they put out lots of heat. That's great in winter, but lousy the rest of the year. Possibly the best choice would be some of those "yard security" lights that look and work like streetlights. George Patterson A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something that cannot be learned any other way. Samuel Clemens |
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I insulated my 30 x 60 quonset with double bubble mylar/aluminum foil that
is really tough stuff and easy to put up. It comes in1/2 x 4 x 75(?) strips and can be placed under the bolt's nut and held in place with the edges sealed with 2" wided aluminum tape. R values vary from the vertical to the horizontal but something in the R-14 area. It is highly reflective and I've had it up now for 7 years with no complaints. Note: Don't stick weld close to the wall though, you'll end up with a good sun burn on the back of your neck. Hope this helps. I got this stuff at Barton's Lumber but can be had cheaper at Home Depot and etc. R Little "B. Jensen" wrote in message ... I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from this area have any vendors that they can recommend? I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective products would be greatly appreciated! :-) Thank, Bryan Lakeville, MN |
#4
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Also, look into the cost of haivng the inside of the hangar foamed... You
get an air tight result, with superior R values... They may do the inside of the door also, depending on your installation... Foam is a few more bucks, but in ten years you won't miss the money and you have a superior product... Denny "G.R. Patterson III" wrote in message ... "B. Jensen" wrote: I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Options tend to be fiberglass batts and foam panels. Fiberglass is cheaper and doesn't burn as well. It can be held in place with spring wire placed between joists or by stapling chicken wire to structures to hold it in (among other techniques). One disadvantage is that rodents like to make nests in it. Many types of foam are flammable, some highly so, but the panels can be glued in place with construction adhesive. I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? The most cost-effective lighting is fluorescent. Standard ballasts don't work well below about 60 degrees, however, so you need commercial fixtures. Home Depot in this area sells Simkar commercial units with ballasts that work down to below freezing, but even that isn't going to be good enough for deep winter where you are. Halogens work in about any temperature, but they put out lots of heat. That's great in winter, but lousy the rest of the year. Possibly the best choice would be some of those "yard security" lights that look and work like streetlights. George Patterson A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something that cannot be learned any other way. Samuel Clemens |
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FWIW I am currently building a 80'x79'6"x30' tall hanger. The cost for 4"
insulation is $6000. It is installed by screwing the sheeting over it. We are using florescent lighting but I don't have the cost broken out. Mike MU-2 "B. Jensen" wrote in message ... I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from this area have any vendors that they can recommend? I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective products would be greatly appreciated! :-) Thank, Bryan Lakeville, MN |
#6
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On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:15:33 -0500, "B. Jensen"
wrote: I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from this area have any vendors that they can recommend? I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective products would be greatly appreciated! :-) A lot depends on your zoning and ordinances. One of the best I've seen for the old style all meal, rectangular "pole barn" type hangers is a spray on fire retardant cellulose. As I recall it takes a bit more to get the R-factor compared to some of the others, but you can put the stuff into places that are normally difficult to reach. They can even spray it on the ceiling as well as around and under steel beams. Fiberglass bats and roll insulation work well and are relatively inexpensive., If you have steel support beams and uprights they can prove to be tremendous heat losses unless wrapped with the insulation. It's a lot of work, but if you can afford to put wood strips (I forget the proper name) on the wall and finish the interior with rock lath, or plasterboard then the walls can be blown full, or just filled with batts On mine, I insulated the walls with 3 1/2 inch batts and covered them with finished barn metal. The ceiling is also barn metal with 16 inches of blown cellulose on top of that. However I'd guess to do the entire inside of a 48 X 60' hanger with barn metal would run over $2,000. OTOH it's a whale of a lot easier to install than rock lath. Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2) Thank, Bryan Lakeville, MN |
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