Does it have to WHITE!!!

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 03:05:01 GMT, Ernest Christley
wrote:

BarrenSands wrote:
"David Koehler" wrote in message
...



snipped


He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I
have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it affected
the resin at all.


Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of the
job) :-)



Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about
done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then
add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup?

Moisture is bad and sweat far worse as far as lay-ups. The glass
fibers are very sensitive to moisture. Sweat not only has salt, but
oil in it as well. That can affect the layer to layer as well as the
internal lay-up strength.

I clean the surfaces with Acetone and do the lay-ups while wearing
surgical gloves. I was cautioned not to even touch the surface with
my hands prior to lay-up and after cleaning. If it will be multiple
lay-ups I use nylon or Dacron cloth as a peel ply to prep the surface
for the next lay-up.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 15:32:38 -0500, "David Koehler"
wrote:

Greetings All,
I'm building a composite fuselage in South Texas, with out the aid of air
conditioning. Does anyone have some suggestions on getting the resin setup
time a little longer. I promote it for 85 degrees, I've tried a hotter
temperature but it doesn't set well. The temp in the garage is 95+. I've put
the resin container in a bucket of water and it helps a little.
I need to do a large piece and the only option I can see is scheduling
myself at 3am in the morning. It would be nicer if I could do it during the
day. Thanks for any help you guys can give.
david

Sounds like Vinyl Ester Resin. The only plane I know of that uses
this is the Glasair series. They use Dow Derakane.
I promote it a full gallon at a time but use no accelerator. I don't
even use accelerator in the winter. I use one percent catalyst (MEKP)
Never mix a working batch (catalyzed) of more than 100 grams/CCs at a
time. The bigger the batch the shorter the pot life and jell time.

Typically I work with 20 to 50 gram batches except when it's time to
close something big. Then I get two or three helpers

If you are working on one of the Glasair series the users group would
be well worth your effort. http://www.glasair.org/ It does require a
subscription. I think it runs $20 or $25 a year.

My builder's diary:
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/G3_files/GIII_Diary.htm
There is a non frames version if you start from my home page.

Good Luck,

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

"Ernest Christley" wrote in message
. com...
BarrenSands wrote:
"David Koehler" wrote in message
...



snipped


He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I
have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it
affected
the resin at all.


Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of
the
job) :-)



Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about
done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then
add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup?

It does not hurt a thing. The worst it can do is leave a little bubble of
liquid. It usually just lays on top.
If it concerns you, take some low pressure air and *carefully* blow it off.

Barren

"Ernest Christley" wrote in message
. com...
BarrenSands wrote:
"David Koehler" wrote in message
...



snipped


He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I
have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it
affected
the resin at all.


Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of
the
job) :-)



Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about
done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then
add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup?

--
This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."

What my book says is to keep the glass cloth covered, and clean as possible.
The site needs to be preped, by ruff sanding 80 grit, and cleaned with
acetone before the cloth and resin goes on. You don't want oil where you put
glass, on metal you have welded you may want to put zinc primer. Mine has
blood sweat and tears all over. OH, which reminds me sand the joint after it
has cured to keep the blood at a minimum, the soft white cloth glass ain't
soft anymore. The gloves are a good idea to keep the resin off your hands,
baby powder helps get them on.