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#21
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More LED's - Again
Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid Not even close. http://www.artmondo.net/printworks/articles/ferric.htm Spent ferric chloride can be neutralized with soda as well. Yes, and you wind up with several gallons of the most wonderful brown permanent dye you can imagine. Plus, I THIINK Ferric Chloride is the commonly available de-smuting solution you need to anodize 2000 series aluminum. I'm only going to worry about anodizing 5052, which has very little copper or zinc, so desmutting shouldn't be a problem. For dyeing anodized aluminum, try RIT, or page through this catalog: http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2934904-AA.shtml Sealing, I guess you'll have to use clear lacquer. I had thought about RIT, and I've been told that food dye will also do the job. I'll just have to experiment. Jim |
#22
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More LED's - Again
FWIW, I do have this guys instruction manual-if its the same guy
(adonizing aluminium). I can find the manual and look stuff up if you want. |
#23
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More LED's - Again
That would be great, if you would. However, he does seem to be quite
interested in selling his proprietary dye, desmutter, and sealant. Jim "John T" wrote in message ... FWIW, I do have this guys instruction manual-if its the same guy (adonizing aluminium). I can find the manual and look stuff up if you want. |
#24
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LCD Anodizing was More LED's - Again
"RST Engineering" wrote in news:3bb78$44185ad4
: That would be great, if you would. However, he does seem to be quite interested in selling his proprietary dye, desmutter, and sealant. Jim "John T" wrote in message ... FWIW, I do have this guys instruction manual-if its the same guy (adonizing aluminium). I can find the manual and look stuff up if you want. I came across this site a couple of years ago, when I thought I had time to play It also tries to sell kits, but there are some manuals and videos that made for some interesting reading. A lot of technical details that convinced me that for the one or two pieces I wanted to do, I should just have them done http://support.caswellplating.com/ Jeff |
#25
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More LED's - Again
Jim said:
Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid Not even close Can you say more? Let me first say I don't work with either on a regular basis - I'm sure you have LOTS of experience with Ferric Chloride. But if you've etched copper with the Muratic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide solution you're advocating, it will have lots of copper ions in it, and it's the copper that makes spent Ferric Chloride a Hazardous Waste. http://www.mgchemicals.com/techsupport/ferric_faq.html Make no mistake, I'm not presenting Ferric Chloride as benign - it's clearly not: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/f1080.htm Neither is Muriatic Acid: http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...ds&id=16009010 Why do you see Muriatic Acid as less trouble? I'm genuinely curious... Highest Regards, |
#26
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More LED's - Again
Let me first say I don't work with either on a regular basis - I'm sure you have LOTS of experience with Ferric Chloride. Only on a rather steady basis since 1963 or so. But if you've etched copper with the Muratic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide solution you're advocating, it will have lots of copper ions in it, and it's the copper that makes spent Ferric Chloride a Hazardous Waste. http://www.mgchemicals.com/techsupport/ferric_faq.html That is correct. However, you can toss a pad of steel wool into the muriatic acid when you are done and the copper will plate out onto the wool. Metallic copper is not a hazmat. Steel wool is not a hazmat. Neutralized muriatic acid is not a hazmat. Ferric chloride loaded with copper is and it is NOT easy to precipitate out the copper from a ferric chloride solution. That's why one accepted method of disposal is inside a concrete "septic tank" that is then sealed. Make no mistake, I'm not presenting Ferric Chloride as benign - it's clearly not: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/f1080.htm Neither is Muriatic Acid: http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...ds&id=16009010 Why do you see Muriatic Acid as less trouble? I'm genuinely curious... Because I have to have a hazmat license to use ferric chloride in the classroom laboratory and I can buy muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide from the home depot without any permits at all. Jim |
#28
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#29
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More LED's - Again
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1 Andrew Sarangan wrote: wrote: Andrew, Small nit pick: laser printers don't lay down ink, they lay down "toner" which is in fact a type of thermoplastic. When you say that you are transferring the ink from the paper, that is a bit of a misnomer... De Very true. I have used the terms toner and ink interchangeably, which is not correct. Jut a small nit from one who has used (or attempted to) a laser printer to get good PC board results. Its often hard to get decent thickness of the toner on the paper so the remelt with the iron works properly, therefore, I have have started to use press-n-peel with greater success. You print on this special paper, press onto the copper s normal, then soak in water. Much better results with finer lines. Evan -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.1 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFEHHxhpxCQXwV2bJARAqWfAKCFUfX9hFilGUjsflYfX4 V7QyGOfACdFQfq lLcs2QOQ0p/H5A2F8z0CYzA= =Kwvv -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- |
#30
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More LED's - Again
Evan Carew wrote:
Andrew, Small nit pick: laser printers don't lay down ink, they lay down "toner" which is in fact a type of thermoplastic. When you say that you are transferring the ink from the paper, that is a bit of a misnomer... De Very true. I have used the terms toner and ink interchangeably, which is not correct. Jut a small nit from one who has used (or attempted to) a laser printer to get good PC board results. Its often hard to get decent thickness of the toner on the paper so the remelt with the iron works properly, therefore, I have have started to use press-n-peel with greater success. You print on this special paper, press onto the copper s normal, then soak in water. Much better results with finer lines. Evan Thanks for the lead, Got a link to go with it? Richard |
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