Exhaust Tape

In article , Scott writes:


AS sells an insulating tape for exhaust pipes. The theory that it will
cause more of the heat to leave the end of the exhaust pipe and less
into the engine compartment.

Since I have an updraft cooling system this would be very nice in the
summer since my exhaust pipes are below the cylinders.

Anybody use this stuff? Does it work? Does it last?

Any tips for installing it?

Scott


Scott,

I would try the ceramic coating of the exhaust system instead of the wrap. I
don't have personal experience with the wrap but have heard a number of issues
with it.

Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

The wrap works to reduce heat in the engine compartment but tends to
accelerate the deterioration of exhaust systems because the heat is held
in the pipes. Also the ceramic cloth holds moisture when the engine
isn't running and collects all oil spills to smoke like crazy when the
engine is running. The wrap is available less expensively from outlets
such as J.C. Whittney. Bob's suggestion of ceramic coating is a good.
The coating is usually both internal and external, protects the steel of
the exhaust system and smoothes the flow of exhaust gasses. It also
reduces under cowl temps but I do not know how it compares to the wrap.
The draw back is that the ceramic coating costs a good bit more than the
wrap.

Scott wrote:
AS sells an insulating tape for exhaust pipes. The theory that it will
cause more of the heat to leave the end of the exhaust pipe and less
into the engine compartment.

Since I have an updraft cooling system this would be very nice in the
summer since my exhaust pipes are below the cylinders.

Anybody use this stuff? Does it work? Does it last?

Any tips for installing it?

Scott



--
Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL
Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter"
| Publishing interesting material|
| on all aspects of alternative |
| engines and homebuilt aircraft.|

In article , "Bruce A. Frank"
writes:


The wrap works to reduce heat in the engine compartment but tends to
accelerate the deterioration of exhaust systems because the heat is held
in the pipes. Also the ceramic cloth holds moisture when the engine
isn't running and collects all oil spills to smoke like crazy when the
engine is running. The wrap is available less expensively from outlets
such as J.C. Whittney. Bob's suggestion of ceramic coating is a good.
The coating is usually both internal and external, protects the steel of
the exhaust system and smoothes the flow of exhaust gasses. It also
reduces under cowl temps but I do not know how it compares to the wrap.
The draw back is that the ceramic coating costs a good bit more than the
wrap.



I would agree that the upfront cost of the ceramic coatings are more but would
question the long term cost differences. I believe the long term benefits of
the ceramic coating will totally offset the costs.

Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

RobertR237 wrote:

In article , "Bruce A. Frank"
writes:


The wrap works to reduce heat in the engine compartment but tends to
accelerate the deterioration of exhaust systems because the heat is held
in the pipes. Also the ceramic cloth holds moisture when the engine
isn't running and collects all oil spills to smoke like crazy when the
engine is running. The wrap is available less expensively from outlets
such as J.C. Whittney. Bob's suggestion of ceramic coating is a good.
The coating is usually both internal and external, protects the steel of
the exhaust system and smoothes the flow of exhaust gasses. It also
reduces under cowl temps but I do not know how it compares to the wrap.
The draw back is that the ceramic coating costs a good bit more than the
wrap.



I would agree that the upfront cost of the ceramic coatings are more but would
question the long term cost differences. I believe the long term benefits of
the ceramic coating will totally offset the costs.


Probably true if you farm it out, but the DIY bottle cost $19.95
in AS&S catalog...

Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

In article , Richard Lamb
writes:


I would agree that the upfront cost of the ceramic coatings are more but
would
question the long term cost differences. I believe the long term benefits
of
the ceramic coating will totally offset the costs.


Probably true if you farm it out, but the DIY bottle cost $19.95
in AS&S catalog...



Two questions on the DIY application. How does it compare to the professional
application which is bead blasted before application and baked on? Can the DIY
be applied to the inside of the pipes as well as the outside?


Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

"RobertR237" wrote in message Can the DIY
be applied to the inside of the pipes as well as the outside?


Bob Reed

Yes
--
Jim in NC

Don't see why it wouldn't work inside as well.
Would certainly reduce internal rust.

The pipes need to be blasted before treatment.
Any (and ALL) imperfections will show up.

Then an acetone wipe to remove finger prints, etc.

Spray on a thin layer of the ceramic "paint"
and bake at 500 degrees for an hour.

I did it in the kitchen oven - no noticible odor
other than the smell of a very hot oven!

Lastly, when cooled, burnish with fine steel wool to
clean off the outer residue, and produce a beautiful
luster. Not quite chromed looking.

There is also a black version that is a little different.
Clean and spray, then start the engine and bring the pipes
up to temp to bake it on.

Check the description in AS&S catalog.

Richard

RobertR237 wrote:

In article , Richard Lamb
writes:


I would agree that the upfront cost of the ceramic coatings are more but
would
question the long term cost differences. I believe the long term benefits
of
the ceramic coating will totally offset the costs.


Probably true if you farm it out, but the DIY bottle cost $19.95
in AS&S catalog...



Two questions on the DIY application. How does it compare to the professional
application which is bead blasted before application and baked on? Can the DIY
be applied to the inside of the pipes as well as the outside?

Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

If I fabricate with stainless I'll probably wrap with the ceramic tape.
If I build from mild steel I will probably go with the coating.

Bruce A. Frank

RobertR237 wrote:
In article , "Bruce A. Frank"
writes:


The wrap works to reduce heat in the engine compartment but tends to
accelerate the deterioration of exhaust systems because the heat is held
in the pipes. Also the ceramic cloth holds moisture when the engine
isn't running and collects all oil spills to smoke like crazy when the
engine is running. The wrap is available less expensively from outlets
such as J.C. Whittney. Bob's suggestion of ceramic coating is a good.
The coating is usually both internal and external, protects the steel of
the exhaust system and smoothes the flow of exhaust gasses. It also
reduces under cowl temps but I do not know how it compares to the wrap.
The draw back is that the ceramic coating costs a good bit more than the
wrap.




I would agree that the upfront cost of the ceramic coatings are more but would
question the long term cost differences. I believe the long term benefits of
the ceramic coating will totally offset the costs.

Bob Reed
www.kisbuild.r-a-reed-assoc.com (KIS Builders Site)
KIS Cruiser in progress...Slow but steady progress....

"Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice,
pull down your pants and Slide on the Ice!"
(M.A.S.H. Sidney Freedman)

Hi Scott,

There are two main advantages in using the exhaust wrap. One is as a
means of reducing under cowl temperature, the other is performance. By
keeping the exhaust temp in the pipe instead of radiating out, the
exhaust gas speed is higher which aids extraction. That's why you
often see it on race cars and bikes. I have used it on race bikes and
it definitely shows up on the dyno (around 2 bhp at the rear wheel on
a Harley), and I have used it on my Rotax 912 aircraft engine, and it
has been on the stainless steel exhasut system I made for over 9
years. It certainly keeps the undercowl temps in check, and I haven't
had any cracks or breakages in 500 hours of use.
Having said that, I don't know if I will use it on the thinner and
much more expensive Vetterman exhaust that I have fitted to my nearly
finished Lycoming-powered RV6, so it's your call. If I had made my
own exhaust, then I probably would use it.
Cheers

Martin in Oz

AS sells an insulating tape for exhaust pipes.

Any tips for installing it?

Scott

I have a Hatz Biplane and it runs hot.
I got some Pipe wrap from Spruce.
I cut it in half and did each pipe overlapping
about 1/2 inch each time. Use the clamps liberally. The Oil Temp went down
approx 15 Degrees and the heat in the
front cockpit is virtually unnoticeable.
The only part I did not wrap was the Carb heat portion of the pipe. It works.
Good Luck with yours.

Bill OParowski