Cancer Report -- Not!

..
I've been advised by one of my advisers that he doesn't mind my
writing all those sob-sister reports, if that's what it takes to get
me through the day. But he's still waiting for me to make good on my
promise about telling him how to make a propeller. So I can go ahead
with the Cancer Reports... so long as I add-on some USEFUL
information, such as how to make a propeller.

Yeah, I know. But he's right. And in case you hadn't noticed, that's
how Navy Chiefs talk -- even to each other. So let's get the Cancer
Report out of the way.

Actually, it's an MRI report.

I pilled-up for the event but not enough. The problem here is that if
you take enough pain-killers to be perfectly pain-free during these
various procedures (X-ray has some too), you'll be too dopey to
respond to their instructions.... they'll say: "Watch your right
arm," ...and you'll have to think about that for a while.

So you pill-up... but never quite enough, as was the case with Mike
and his Monster MRI Machine.

To find out what was causing the problems with my hip (my HIP... fer
crysakes!) I had to lay flat on my back, which feels like someone is
trying to chop a hole in my spine with a dull ax. Thirty minutes of
chopping later, Mike pronounces the session a success and sends me
tottering on my way.

Basic rule for hurts is to Walk it Off. Seriously. Dates back to the
Greek physicians... and is strongly endorsed by ex-Navy Chiefs. So my
wife & I set out to WALK to the car, which is about a quarter-mile
from the MRI annex, out behind Tri-City Hospital, which should of been
torn down twenty years ago but wasn't.

Lemme give you a tip: Walking it off don't always work. In fact,
Walking it Off can sometimes lead to Walking it On. But she got me
home in record time and I ate another handful of pills, which pretty
much wiped me out. I have vague recollections of her shaking me awake
to take my pills, but I was out of it until 1500 this afternoon (ie, 3
pm for the civilians).

Quick little test to see if the pain was still there... it wasn't, so
she palmed the THREE extra pain-pills she'd been ready to feed me --
and which she HAD been feeding me -- for the past 24 hours. So there
I am, pain-free, bladder the size of the Hindenburg, and missing a 24-
hour slice of my life. But no complaints. The prolonged sleep had
done wonders for the edema that had turned my feet into pillow-sized
lumps. Lotsa other pains but they were due to laying in one position
for so long and yes, walking them off DID work. After which I had a
hamburger for breakfast.

The MRI revealed the cause of the swelling on my hip: Bursitis, which
means swelling or inflammation of a bursa, and a Bursa is a sack or
package of... something. Not necessarily a dangerous-something but
they'll find out what it is the next time I visit the Doctor Shop.
Right now I was well rested, full of hamburger, tamped down with a cup
fulla real Navy-style coffee (Hint: Add a bit of salt; it's the
Navy's version of Gator-Ade.)

Bottom Line: The MRI sez don't worry about the lump on my hip. And
the lab results sez not to worry about the drug regime; the tumor may
not be getting any smaller but neither is it getting any larger. And
in the mean time the other parts of me are doing okay.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Which brings us to propellers.

Wanna make a good prop? Then buy Erick Klutton's (sp?) book on how to
make one. He's the fellow who designed, built and flew F.R.E.D. He's
got a web site and his little booklet really WILL tell you how to make
your own propeller.

So what am I gonna tell you about? I'm glad you asked.

Right now you don't know beans about carving a propeller. So go down
to the Borg and buy yourself four pieces of 1x6 shelving, six feet
long. With no knots. Okay, stop laughing. So it's gonna have
knots. Try to pick pieces that have their knots in areas that will be
CUT AWAY when you carve your prop. And that means checking out the
twelve-footers... mebbe you'll find a twelve-footer that has a clean
six-foot section.

But you don't actually need all six feet; your prop is only going to
be 68" long. Telling you to buy six-footers was just to give you a
'shopping-target.'

If you have to splice a piece, make sure it's one of the inner pieces
and that the splice falls across the center, with a slope of at least
15 to 1.

Now you need a strong-back, some clamps and some glue.

The glue is the easiest one to solve: Buy enough Weldwood Plastic
Resin to make-up at least ONE PINT of glue.

The clamps are kinda hard to work out. The wood is going to shrink as
the glue cures. If you use screw-type clamps you'll have to keep
going out and re-tightening the clamps as the wood shrinks. Which is
why a spring clamp is better. Just keep in mind that the blank is
three inches thick and nearly six feet long. You want about one clamp
every three inches. The old-fashioned 'clamp' was an inner tube off a
truck tire, cut into strips about two inches wide. This gigantic
rubber band needs to be pulled up hard but it has the advantage of
maintaining constant tension as the blank cures.

Clamping pressure? As much as you can get... or about seventy psi.

And don't forget the STRONG-BACK. You want your blank to come out
STRAIGHT, which is why you start with a strong-back. I use a section
of steel C-channel, about eight inches wide by six feet long.
Pressure is applied with J-bolts. Lots of fussing but the result is a
blank that's always true.

SAND the individual pieces. Yeah, I know -- the Forest Products
Laboratory sez don't sand it; they say to run it through a planer.
Well Charlie, most of us ain't got planers. But we do got #80 sand
paper. So scuff it up good then WIPE IT DOWN with a WET rag... then
wipe it dry. The wiping will pick up most of the sanding residue
(which is what the FPL is trying to keep from getting into the grain
of the wood.

Top piece of your stack of pieces, you can draw the prop's outline if
you want. But for ALL of the pieces, you want to locate the CENTER in
both length & width then DRILL a 1/4" hole. Now you can use a 1/4"
bolt or rod to keep the stack aligned.

You want to spread adhesive on BOTH surfaces. It will take about ONE
PINT of glue to do so. Just remember, the top & bottom pieces only
get glue on ONE side. (Come on... think about it.)

With props, nothing happens in a hurry. Once you've got the blank
glued-up, leave it alone; let the thing cure.

Standing in front of your blank, the center just opposite your bolly-
holey, the left-hand blade is the ADVANCING blade, the right-hand is
the re-treating blade. That's because this prop is going to be
attached to the clutch-end of the crankshaft. This prop is also going
to have a pitch of about 43" And if you've been around aeroplanes for
any amount of time you will recognize the 68x43 as a standard size for
the Continental A-40 engine. The A40 has a displacement of 112cid, by
the way. Which happens to be about the same as a VW conversion using
92mm jugs and the STOCK crankshaft, which has a 69mm stroke. that is,
an 1834cc VW conversion is 111.91cid, which is pretty damn close to
112cid. But if you think the 1834 is the 'same' as an A40, you'd
better take two aspirin and call me in the morning, because airplane
engines depend on TORQUE... having the same displacement don't mean
beans. Oh, we can get ABOUT the same torque out of an 1834 but it
would be little more than a joke, since it would come-in at a much
higher rpm, plus we don't have enough meat in our lower-end to handle
it. See those connecting rods? A40 con-rods have MORE THAN twice the
bearing area of the VW engine. That's what you need when you're
producing your torque at low rpm. Also, the A40 con-rods are a lot
LONGER than the connecting rods in a VW. Rod LENGTH is a key factor
in dwell TIME or DURATION (as opposed to dwell ANGLE, which has to do
with ignition timing). Good, LONG dwell duration means you get a good
clean BURN right at, or near, TDC. And that's what gives the A40 the
TORQUE it needs to swing a 68" prop. VW conversion, even with the
longest after-market rods you can find, doesn't even come close to the
A40's low rpm torque. But we'll start with 68x43 for the prop, which
is just a training aid anyway

You got all that? Okay then, go ahead an' get hot. I'll be over
there copping a smoke.

-R.S.Hoover

On Nov 21, 5:36*pm, " wrote:
.
I've been advised by one of my advisers that he doesn't mind *my
writing all those sob-sister reports, if that's what it takes to get
me through the day. *But he's still waiting for me to make good on my
promise about telling him how to make a propeller. *So I can go ahead
with the Cancer Reports... so long as I add-on some USEFUL
information, such as how to make a propeller.

Yeah, I know. *But he's right. *And in case you hadn't noticed, that's
how Navy Chiefs talk -- even to each other. *So let's get the Cancer
Report out of the way.

Actually, it's an MRI report.

I pilled-up for the event but not enough. *The problem here is that if
you take enough pain-killers to be perfectly pain-free during these
various procedures (X-ray has some too), you'll be too dopey to
respond to their instructions.... they'll say: *"Watch your right
arm," *...and you'll have to think about that for a while.

So you pill-up... but never quite enough, as was the case with Mike
and his Monster MRI Machine.

To find out what was causing the problems with my hip (my HIP... fer
crysakes!) I had to lay flat on my back, which feels like someone is
trying to chop a hole in my spine with a dull ax. *Thirty minutes of
chopping later, Mike pronounces the session a success and sends me
tottering on my way.

Basic rule for hurts is to Walk it Off. *Seriously. *Dates back to the
Greek physicians... and is strongly endorsed by ex-Navy Chiefs. *So my
wife & I set out to WALK to the car, which is about a quarter-mile
from the MRI annex, out behind Tri-City Hospital, which should of been
torn down twenty years ago but wasn't.

Lemme give you a tip: *Walking it off don't always work. *In fact,
Walking it Off can sometimes lead to Walking it On. *But she got me
home in record time and I ate another handful of pills, which pretty
much wiped me out. *I have vague recollections of her shaking me awake
to take my pills, but I was out of it until 1500 this afternoon (ie, 3
pm for the civilians).

Quick little test to see if the pain was still there... it wasn't, so
she palmed the THREE extra pain-pills she'd been ready to feed me --
and which she HAD been feeding me -- for the past 24 hours. *So there
I am, pain-free, bladder the size of the Hindenburg, and missing a 24-
hour slice of my life. *But no complaints. *The prolonged sleep had
done wonders for the edema that had turned my feet into pillow-sized
lumps. *Lotsa other pains but they were due to laying in one position
for so long and yes, walking them off DID work. *After which I had a
hamburger for breakfast.

The MRI revealed the cause of the swelling on my hip: *Bursitis, which
means swelling or inflammation of *a bursa, and a Bursa is a sack or
package of... something. *Not necessarily a dangerous-something but
they'll find out what it is the next time I visit the Doctor Shop.
Right now I was well rested, full of hamburger, tamped down with a cup
fulla real Navy-style coffee (Hint: *Add a bit of salt; it's the
Navy's version of Gator-Ade.)

Bottom Line: *The MRI sez don't worry about the lump on my hip. *And
the lab results sez not to worry about the drug regime; the tumor may
not be getting any smaller but neither is it getting any larger. *And
in the mean time the other parts of me are doing okay.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------*---------------------------------------------------------

Which brings us to propellers.

Wanna make a good prop? *Then buy Erick Klutton's (sp?) book on how to
make one. He's the fellow who designed, built and flew F.R.E.D. *He's
got a web site and his little booklet really WILL tell you how to make
your own propeller.

So what am I gonna tell you about? * I'm glad you asked.

Right now you don't know beans about carving a propeller. *So go down
to the Borg and buy yourself four pieces of 1x6 shelving, six feet
long. *With no knots. *Okay, stop laughing. *So it's gonna have
knots. *Try to pick pieces that have their knots in areas that will be
CUT AWAY when you carve your prop. *And that means checking out the
twelve-footers... mebbe you'll find a twelve-footer that has a clean
six-foot section.

But you don't actually need all six feet; your prop is only going to
be 68" long. *Telling you to buy six-footers was just to give you a
'shopping-target.'

If you have to splice a piece, make sure it's one of the inner pieces
and that the splice falls across the center, with a slope of at least
15 to 1.

Now you need a strong-back, some clamps and some glue.

The glue is the easiest one to solve: *Buy enough Weldwood Plastic
Resin to make-up at least ONE PINT of glue.

The clamps are kinda hard to work out. *The wood is going to shrink as
the glue cures. *If you use screw-type clamps you'll have to keep
going out and re-tightening the clamps as the wood shrinks. *Which is
why a spring clamp is better. *Just keep in mind that the blank is
three inches thick and nearly six feet long. *You want about one clamp
every three inches. *The old-fashioned 'clamp' was an inner tube off a
truck tire, cut into strips about two inches wide. *This gigantic
rubber band needs to be pulled up hard but it has the advantage of
maintaining constant tension as the blank cures.

Clamping pressure? *As much as you can get... or about seventy psi.

And don't forget the STRONG-BACK. *You want your blank to come out
STRAIGHT, which is why you start with a strong-back. *I use a section
of steel C-channel, about eight inches wide by six feet long.
Pressure is applied with J-bolts. *Lots of fussing but the result is a
blank that's always true.

SAND the individual pieces. *Yeah, I know -- the Forest Products
Laboratory sez don't sand it; they say to run it through a planer.
Well Charlie, most of us ain't got planers. *But we do got #80 sand
paper. *So scuff it up good then WIPE IT DOWN with a WET rag... then
wipe it dry. *The wiping will pick up most of the sanding residue
(which is what the FPL is trying to keep from getting into the grain
of the wood.

Top piece of your stack of pieces, you can draw the prop's outline if
you want. *But for ALL of the pieces, you want to locate the CENTER in
both length & width then DRILL a 1/4" hole. *Now you can use a 1/4"
bolt or rod to keep the stack aligned.

You want to spread adhesive on BOTH surfaces. *It will take about ONE
PINT of glue to do so. *Just remember, the top & bottom pieces only
get glue on ONE side. *(Come on... think about it.)

With props, nothing happens in a hurry. *Once you've got the blank
glued-up, leave it alone; let the thing cure.

Standing in front of your blank, the center just opposite your bolly-
holey, the left-hand blade is the ADVANCING blade, the right-hand is
the re-treating blade. *That's because this prop is going to be
attached to the clutch-end of the crankshaft. *This prop is also going
to have a pitch of about 43" *And if you've been around aeroplanes for
any amount of time you will recognize the 68x43 as a standard size for
the Continental A-40 engine. *The A40 has a displacement of 112cid, by
the way. *Which happens to be about the same as a VW conversion using
92mm jugs and the STOCK crankshaft, which has a 69mm stroke. *that is,
an 1834cc VW conversion is 111.91cid, which is pretty damn close to
112cid. *But if you think the 1834 is the 'same' as an A40, you'd
better take two aspirin and call me in the morning, because airplane
engines depend on TORQUE... *having the same displacement don't mean
beans. *Oh, we can get ABOUT the same torque out of an 1834 but it
would be little more than a joke, since it would come-in at a much
higher rpm, plus we don't have enough meat in our lower-end to handle
it. *See those connecting rods? *A40 con-rods have MORE THAN twice the
bearing area of the VW engine. *That's what you need when you're
producing your torque at low rpm. *Also, the A40 con-rods are a lot
LONGER than the connecting rods in a VW. *Rod LENGTH is a key factor
in dwell TIME or DURATION (as opposed to dwell ANGLE, which has to do
with ignition timing). *Good, LONG dwell duration means you get a good
clean BURN right at, or near, TDC. *And that's what gives the A40 the
TORQUE it needs to swing a 68" prop. *VW conversion, even with the
longest after-market rods you can find, doesn't even come close to the
A40's low rpm torque. But we'll start with 68x43 for the prop, which
is just a training aid anyway

You got all that? *Okay then, go ahead an' get hot. *I'll be over
there copping a smoke.

-R.S.Hoover

Fantastic! Both sections!

Harry K

On Nov 21, 8:36*pm, " wrote:
.
I've been advised by one of my advisers that he doesn't mind *my
writing all those sob-sister reports, if that's what it takes to get
me through the day. *But he's still waiting for me to make good on my
promise about telling him how to make a propeller. *So I can go ahead
with the Cancer Reports... so long as I add-on some USEFUL
information, such as how to make a propeller.

Yeah, I know. *But he's right. *And in case you hadn't noticed, that's
how Navy Chiefs talk -- even to each other. *So let's get the Cancer
Report out of the way.

Actually, it's an MRI report.

I pilled-up for the event but not enough. *The problem here is that if
you take enough pain-killers to be perfectly pain-free during these
various procedures (X-ray has some too), you'll be too dopey to
respond to their instructions.... they'll say: *"Watch your right
arm," *...and you'll have to think about that for a while.

So you pill-up... but never quite enough, as was the case with Mike
and his Monster MRI Machine.

To find out what was causing the problems with my hip (my HIP... fer
crysakes!) I had to lay flat on my back, which feels like someone is
trying to chop a hole in my spine with a dull ax. *Thirty minutes of
chopping later, Mike pronounces the session a success and sends me
tottering on my way.

Basic rule for hurts is to Walk it Off. *Seriously. *Dates back to the
Greek physicians... and is strongly endorsed by ex-Navy Chiefs. *So my
wife & I set out to WALK to the car, which is about a quarter-mile
from the MRI annex, out behind Tri-City Hospital, which should of been
torn down twenty years ago but wasn't.

Lemme give you a tip: *Walking it off don't always work. *In fact,
Walking it Off can sometimes lead to Walking it On. *But she got me
home in record time and I ate another handful of pills, which pretty
much wiped me out. *I have vague recollections of her shaking me awake
to take my pills, but I was out of it until 1500 this afternoon (ie, 3
pm for the civilians).

Quick little test to see if the pain was still there... it wasn't, so
she palmed the THREE extra pain-pills she'd been ready to feed me --
and which she HAD been feeding me -- for the past 24 hours. *So there
I am, pain-free, bladder the size of the Hindenburg, and missing a 24-
hour slice of my life. *But no complaints. *The prolonged sleep had
done wonders for the edema that had turned my feet into pillow-sized
lumps. *Lotsa other pains but they were due to laying in one position
for so long and yes, walking them off DID work. *After which I had a
hamburger for breakfast.

The MRI revealed the cause of the swelling on my hip: *Bursitis, which
means swelling or inflammation of *a bursa, and a Bursa is a sack or
package of... something. *Not necessarily a dangerous-something but
they'll find out what it is the next time I visit the Doctor Shop.
Right now I was well rested, full of hamburger, tamped down with a cup
fulla real Navy-style coffee (Hint: *Add a bit of salt; it's the
Navy's version of Gator-Ade.)

Bottom Line: *The MRI sez don't worry about the lump on my hip. *And
the lab results sez not to worry about the drug regime; the tumor may
not be getting any smaller but neither is it getting any larger. *And
in the mean time the other parts of me are doing okay.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Which brings us to propellers.

Wanna make a good prop? *Then buy Erick Klutton's (sp?) book on how to
make one. He's the fellow who designed, built and flew F.R.E.D. *He's
got a web site and his little booklet really WILL tell you how to make
your own propeller.

So what am I gonna tell you about? * I'm glad you asked.

Right now you don't know beans about carving a propeller. *So go down
to the Borg and buy yourself four pieces of 1x6 shelving, six feet
long. *With no knots. *Okay, stop laughing. *So it's gonna have
knots. *Try to pick pieces that have their knots in areas that will be
CUT AWAY when you carve your prop. *And that means checking out the
twelve-footers... mebbe you'll find a twelve-footer that has a clean
six-foot section.

But you don't actually need all six feet; your prop is only going to
be 68" long. *Telling you to buy six-footers was just to give you a
'shopping-target.'

If you have to splice a piece, make sure it's one of the inner pieces
and that the splice falls across the center, with a slope of at least
15 to 1.

Now you need a strong-back, some clamps and some glue.

The glue is the easiest one to solve: *Buy enough Weldwood Plastic
Resin to make-up at least ONE PINT of glue.

The clamps are kinda hard to work out. *The wood is going to shrink as
the glue cures. *If you use screw-type clamps you'll have to keep
going out and re-tightening the clamps as the wood shrinks. *Which is
why a spring clamp is better. *Just keep in mind that the blank is
three inches thick and nearly six feet long. *You want about one clamp
every three inches. *The old-fashioned 'clamp' was an inner tube off a
truck tire, cut into strips about two inches wide. *This gigantic
rubber band needs to be pulled up hard but it has the advantage of
maintaining constant tension as the blank cures.

Clamping pressure? *As much as you can get... or about seventy psi.

And don't forget the STRONG-BACK. *You want your blank to come out
STRAIGHT, which is why you start with a strong-back. *I use a section
of steel C-channel, about eight inches wide by six feet long.
Pressure is applied with J-bolts. *Lots of fussing but the result is a
blank that's always true.

SAND the individual pieces. *Yeah, I know -- the Forest Products
Laboratory sez don't sand it; they say to run it through a planer.
Well Charlie, most of us ain't got planers. *But we do got #80 sand
paper. *So scuff it up good then WIPE IT DOWN with a WET rag... then
wipe it dry. *The wiping will pick up most of the sanding residue
(which is what the FPL is trying to keep from getting into the grain
of the wood.

Top piece of your stack of pieces, you can draw the prop's outline if
you want. *But for ALL of the pieces, you want to locate the CENTER in
both length & width then DRILL a 1/4" hole. *Now you can use a 1/4"
bolt or rod to keep the stack aligned.

You want to spread adhesive on BOTH surfaces. *It will take about ONE
PINT of glue to do so. *Just remember, the top & bottom pieces only
get glue on ONE side. *(Come on... think about it.)

With props, nothing happens in a hurry. *Once you've got the blank
glued-up, leave it alone; let the thing cure.

Standing in front of your blank, the center just opposite your bolly-
holey, the left-hand blade is the ADVANCING blade, the right-hand is
the re-treating blade. *That's because this prop is going to be
attached to the clutch-end of the crankshaft. *This prop is also going
to have a pitch of about 43" *And if you've been around aeroplanes for
any amount of time you will recognize the 68x43 as a standard size for
the Continental A-40 engine. *The A40 has a displacement of 112cid, by
the way. *Which happens to be about the same as a VW conversion using
92mm jugs and the STOCK crankshaft, which has a 69mm stroke. *that is,
an 1834cc VW conversion is 111.91cid, which is pretty damn close to
112cid. *But if you think the 1834 is the 'same' as an A40, you'd
better take two aspirin and call me in the morning, because airplane
engines depend on TORQUE... *having the same displacement don't mean
beans. *Oh, we can get ABOUT the same torque out of an 1834 but it
would be little more than a joke, since it would come-in at a much
higher rpm, plus we don't have enough meat in our lower-end to handle
it. *See those connecting rods? *A40 con-rods have MORE THAN twice the
bearing area of the VW engine. *That's what you need when you're
producing your torque at low rpm. *Also, the A40 con-rods are a lot
LONGER than the connecting rods in a VW. *Rod LENGTH is a key factor
in dwell TIME or DURATION (as opposed to dwell ANGLE, which has to do
with ignition timing). *Good, LONG dwell duration means you get a good
clean BURN right at, or near, TDC. *And that's what gives the A40 the
TORQUE it needs to swing a 68" prop. *VW conversion, even with the
longest after-market rods you can find, doesn't even come close to the
A40's low rpm torque. But we'll start with 68x43 for the prop, which
is just a training aid anyway

You got all that? *Okay then, go ahead an' get hot. *I'll be over
there copping a smoke.

-R.S.Hoover

Glad you're improving Bob. I hurt my back long ago and no matter how
much pain pills I downed it didn't make any difference. Now I just
ignore it. Seems the pills didn't make a difference to me. Still got
a lot of them left and gave some away to friends who needed them.

This guy's book could have saved me over three and fifty odd bucks
Bob. Oh well, I already received the prop. I bought a 56" pusher
prop from Tennessee Prop (http://www.tn-prop.com/ Good people!) for
my Zenoah for the trike I'm building for my hang glider.

Monk