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#12
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Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
Had a Cessna 172 come into Emergency Aircraft Repair at Oshkosh with a
damaged spinner. The lady pilot want it removed so pieces didn't fly off during the flight back home. Unfortunately, the spinner hadn't been removed in many years. The Screws were rusted tight. Used all of the techniques that have been listed and failed to remove a single screw. It looked hopeless as all the slots got rounded out. I got out a sharp cold chisel and after getting a good bite on the side of the screw head, angled the chisel to rotate the screw. Took about a minute a screw to get them started to have them protrude enough to grab with vice grips and spin them the rest of the way out. Lady pilot was a little perturbed when I said that the spinner should have been removed at every annual time by the mechanic so as to check the prop bolts. Her response was..."I'll tell that to my husband, the IA.! LOL -- Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A 45 Year Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot " wrote in message ps.com... After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque to twist the head off! Then you will need the extractors. I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on the screw then take it out with a vice grip. Bill Hale wrote: I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very well. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1 (copy and paste the address if it is too long) I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using the extractor (you do need a reversing drill). Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it work well? Regards, Bud Michael Horowitz wrote: I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube. Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head. Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing rusted screws? - Mike |
#13
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Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
I've never encountered a protruding head screw that was too difficult
to get out using some method of cutting a slot or making some flat areas so you can use a wrench as you say. Unless it was corroded along the threads. I had to use a small file to make a slot in a spinner screw several times (protruding head screw). I have twisted the head off too many bolts. Don't remind me! But the problem here is usually being able to get enough torque on the screw to remove it, as is often the problem with countersunk screws. When the screw is located in thin aluminum sheet as is often the case on aircraft, using a dremel around the head of the screw is not an option! In my opinion, removing stuck or broken screws is the toughest job a mechanic faces. Bud wrote: After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque to twist the head off! Then you will need the extractors. I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on the screw then take it out with a vice grip. Bill Hale wrote: I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very well. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1 (copy and paste the address if it is too long) I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using the extractor (you do need a reversing drill). Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it work well? Regards, Bud Michael Horowitz wrote: I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube. Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head. Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing rusted screws? - Mike |
#14
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Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
Use a chisel to put a V shaped slot in the edge of the screw. Now put a
punch in the slot on a tangent to the screw head and tap it with a hammer to turn the screw. "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message ... I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube. Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head. Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing rusted screws? - Mike |
#15
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Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great. thanks again, tom Vaughn Simon wrote: I have heard others say they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver to reduce cam out. Never tried it myself. Vaughn |
#16
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slightly OT Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great. thanks again, tom Using the term "POS" reminds me that I have a sterling example of truth in advertising. I'm using an old CB power supply to power my 2 meter transceiver. I've had it for about 20 years and , within its limits it works quite well (12 volts at 4 amps can only furnish 10 watts output with my FT-1500M transceiver but that gets into the local repeaters just fine). To get back to the truth in advertising point, the model number of the power supply is POS 124Z. How could they be more honest than that.(G) Harold KD5SAK |
#17
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Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great. thanks again, Kool! I will have to try it myself someday. Vaughn |
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