pushrod tube leak

Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without
removing the rocker and loosing the head?

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...

Loosing the head?

Thinking through this in my head, I believe the steps (chime in if I've
missed something) would be to:
pull the top spark plug,
put that cylinder at TDC,
push the rocker arm pin out far enough to remove the rocker arm,
remove the shroud tube retaining clip,
pull the tube and push rod out through the rocker box,
inspect both the tube and the pushrod,
insert pushrod and tube back through rocker box,
lightly apply Parker O ring lube and replace the engine side seal with new
(it's tapered, one directional),
lightly apply Parker O ring lube and replace the rocker box side "O" ring
with new,
press tube into place, secure with retaining clip and new securing tab
install rocker arm
replace rocker box cover gasket
torque rocker box cover screws, 50 in/lbs sticks in my head but I may be
wrong.
reinstall top spark plug

Jim





"Dick" wrote in message
news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02...
Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without
removing the rocker and loosing the head?

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...

Dick wrote:

Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without
removing the rocker and loosing the head?

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...


You don't have to "loose" the head. You do have to take the valve cover
off and remove the pushrod. Any mechanic worthy of the name has a tool,
usually homemade, that compresses and holds the spring so you can insert
a new pushrod tube seal. This seal will have the mechanics secret it
won't leak any more goop that he applies to it. I used to have some
leaky pushrod tubes but no more.

"Dick" wrote in message
news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02...
Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without
removing the rocker and loosing the head?

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...

It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have the
pushrod tube swedged into the head.

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...

It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have
the pushrod tube swedged into the head.

I think Real Gasket makes a kit to replace the Continental pushrod tubes
with removable tubes. If you do pull a small Continental cylinder to replace
the pushrod seal then there's that AD to dye check the rocker arm bosses for
cracks--------

Cheers:

Paul
N1431A
KPLU

The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
. ..

"Dick" wrote in message
news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02...
Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube
without removing the rocker and loosing the head?

Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive
car with those split and bolted types...

It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have
the pushrod tube swedged into the head.

"Dick" wrote in message
news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07...
The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
. ..



http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental

On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote:
"Dick" wrote in message

news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07...

The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
...

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental

On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the
retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant,
then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new
and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original
assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to
get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale

On Oct 10, 12:39 pm, "
wrote:
On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote:

"Dick" wrote in message

news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07...

The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
...

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental

On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the
retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant,
then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new
and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original
assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to
get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale

The only way to replace that boot (and they're cheap) is
to pull the rockers and rods out and take the cylinder nuts off, back
the jug off and replace them. But if you do all that, you may as well
pull the jug right off and replace the cylinder base seal as well
(also cheap), because they harden and shrink and leak, too. You will
need spring clamp pliers to remove and reinstall the boot clamps. Hard
to find, those things, and without them you risk insanity.
The upper end of the tube, the swaged end, will often
leak. This can be fixed in place by removing the rocker cover,
squirting some sharp solvent like lacquer thinner or brake and parts
cleaner or contact cleaner into the joint, both sides, and using air
to blow it out. Do this a few times until you are sure the joint is
completely free of oil. Don't use Varsol or any other slow-drying
solvent. After it's clean, use a wicking grade of Loctite (290) or a
competitive equivalent and apply it to the joint. It will wick in
quickly. Apply enough that the joint won't take any more. Leave it
undisturbed for a few hours to set, and put the covers back on. Don't
try to accelerate it by warming it with a torch; fumes from the
cleaning fluid might be inside the tube and crankcase now and make
thing interesting. If you have to warm it, use a heat gun. And don't
get it too warm or the Loctite will run out. Don't let Loctite run
into the tube itself. Pieces of hardened Loctite have no business
floating around inside the case.

Dan