Aviation Sheetmetal Work

On Feb 15, 4:34*pm, Brian Whatcott wrote:
. . . a corrosion preventative that
sets waxy, like BoeShield T-6 aerosol would be better.

Veeduber had it right. With the kerosene, you take the canvas off, use
the lathe, sweep up the chips and cover it again. With the waxy stuff,
you must remove it from any working surfaces before you can use the
lathe. It's formulated to be difficult to remove. You'll end up not
using the lathe for small jobs.

Rich S.

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I would not dream of putting a
machine lathe in an unheated workshop where the ways might attract a
layer of rust.
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So buy a Flit gun and 5 gallons of kerosene. After using the lathe,
pump up the Flit gun and give the lathe a light coating of kerosene,
then cover it with a piece of canvas that is NOT allowed to touch any
unpainted surface.

-Bob

PS -- Can't find a Flit gun? Then use one of those refillable aerosol
cans... or use an air-brush.


Flit-gun? THAT takes me back! I will admit to considering a 10 oz duck
cover and a 40 watt lamp under it.... Say kerosene and I think WD-40 of
course - but I keep reminding myself - a corrosion preventative that sets
waxy, like BoeShield T-6 aerosol would be better.

Which reminds me: in the long, long-ago there was an auto chassis
treatment (back when cars had chassis). The kit was a bottle of wax
dissolved in a solvent and a Flit-gun. Worked like a champ.

(I later verified you can dissolve grated candlewax in most any
petrochemical like kerosene, gasoline, diesel oil, lamp oil whatever, if
you first WARMED the oil.)

Brian W

WD-40 only works well if something has become wet, it will displace the
water and cause it to shed. It's a water displacement agent, and doesn't
protect long as a rust preventative.

Kerosene works well, depending on how often the machine is used. But you can
greatly extend it's effectiveness by adding a percentage of oil to suit you
needs. Although most effective, adding wax would probably leave a film that
would have to be removed before each use.

"Stuart Fields" wrote

Second to Jim. Zemlock helicopters at Chino showed me one of those
Insecticide sprayers used to clean up his D model Bell 47, which if they
could ever find a crop that could use engine oil, would find it's niche.
No spray booms required. The sprayer worked like it was designed for the
task.

Actually, many (most) garden sprayers will not last long using any
petro-chemicals. You can get one from a concrete supply company that is
designed to spray concrete post treatment, that is petrochemical proof, or
find a sprayer for treating decks with waterproofing at a lumber supply
house.
--
Jim in NC

wrote:
On Feb 15, 4:34 pm, Brian Whatcott wrote:
. . . a corrosion preventative that
sets waxy, like BoeShield T-6 aerosol would be better.

Veeduber had it right. With the kerosene, you take the canvas off, use
the lathe, sweep up the chips and cover it again. With the waxy stuff,
you must remove it from any working surfaces before you can use the
lathe. It's formulated to be difficult to remove. You'll end up not
using the lathe for small jobs.

Rich S.

I understand this objection. But I have an objection to WD-40 or
straight kerosene. It evaporates. Then here comes the FeO2

(At least, that's what I have in mind - I would be pleased to hear I'm
wrong on this one...)

Brian W

Maxwell wrote:

Kerosene works well, depending on how often the machine is used. But you can
greatly extend it's effectiveness by adding a percentage of oil to suit you
needs. Although most effective, adding wax would probably leave a film that
would have to be removed before each use.



I went looking for Boeshield T-6 or LP-3 in town today. No joy. But I did
find silicone sprays which I don't like, and this aerosol from 3M called
"5-WAY". The label says aliphatic hydrocarbon (which I assume is
kerosene), petrolatum and heavy parrafinic oil. It says it leaves a
sticky surface. That's better than nothing.....

Brian W

On Feb 16, 3:00*pm, Brian Whatcott wrote:
It says it leaves a
sticky surface. That's better than nothing.....

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most of the comments are coming from people who have never used
kerosene & a flit-gun to protect their machine tools. I suggest you
try it before wandering off in all directions. Kerosene is called
'paraffin oil' for a pretty good reason: As the kerosene evaporates
it leaves behind a layer of WAX. It is the layer of wax that protects
the surfaces of your machine tools. Cleaning it up is no problem.
Simply re-spray and wipe it off.

Some times the 'old ways' are best. I think you'll find this is one
of those times.

-R.S.Hoover

"Bryan Martin" wrote in message
...
In article ,
cavelamb wrote:

Peter Dohm wrote:
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I would not dream of putting a
machine lathe in an unheated workshop where the ways might attract a
layer of rust.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

You might also try LPS-3, if I recall correctly--or was it LPS-2. In
any
case, I believe that the one that gets waxy is also fairly popular for
spraying in pick-up truck beds before istalling a bed-liner.

Peter



That's LPS-3. But I can't find it anywhere locally.


There's also a product called Dow Corning (or Molykote) metal protective
coating. It's an organic wax dissolved in a solvent in an aerosol can.
It seems to only be available from industrial supply companies. I did
find a place to order it online but they only sell case lots.

--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive.

LPS-3 seems to be available from various sources on line as well--and in
container sizes up to a gallon. But I don't know of any place to just pick
it up on my way home.

Peter

Brian Whatcott wrote:

I understand this objection. But I have an objection to WD-40 or
straight kerosene. It evaporates. Then here comes the FeO2

(At least, that's what I have in mind - I would be pleased to hear I'm
wrong on this one...)

Brian W

Try a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and kerosene. You will
be amazed how well it both lubes and protects against rust.

Tony

"Anthony W" wrote in message
...
Brian Whatcott wrote:

I understand this objection. But I have an objection to WD-40 or straight
kerosene. It evaporates. Then here comes the FeO2

(At least, that's what I have in mind - I would be pleased to hear I'm
wrong on this one...)

Brian W

Try a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and kerosene. You will be
amazed how well it both lubes and protects against rust.

And if there is paint on the machine that is not bake on, epoxy, or powder
coat, it can also remove the paint.
--
Jim in NC

Brian Whatcott wrote:
wrote:
... buying a lot of metal-working tools doesn't mean
you'll be turning out usable parts. ... So
instead of day-dreaming about a 48" metal brake from Harbor Freight
that you'll probably never buy anyway, why not pick up a piece of
angle iron and start LEARNING how to do metal-work....

-R.S.Hoover


There is another outcome possible at Harbor Freight - other than the
day-dream ending. Like me, you may BUY a tool.
I am thinking of the tube bender I bought. I KNEW that the usual tube
bender that features a ram pushing a forming tool against a pipe while
two side rollers hold it in place - is a disaster - it is about
guaranteed to collapse the wall unless the tube is loaded with sand,
ice, eutectic - whatever. So I bought the BETTER type tube bender on
sale. This has a roller that pulls the tube round a die - this
provides the motivation to stretch the tube wall on the outside, rather
than ripple the tube wall on the inside of the turn.

So fine: I bought it, and I bought a tube drilling jig, to make those
nicely fitted tube joints at 90deg, 45 deg etc....and plenty of other
things too.

What's wrong with that? I haven't used these tools at all. Not once.
And now I covet a machine lathe too (there could hardly be a more
bargain deal for $400 after all). Trouble is, Momma would have
conniptions if I put it in my study, and I would not dream of putting a
machine lathe in an unheated workshop where the ways might attract a
layer of rust.
That would about break my heart.....

Brian W

One of the advantages in living alone in a house is one of my
bedrooms is my machine shop. It's more comfortable than a garage and
cheaper than a climate controlled shop.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired