If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
You cant increase your speed by 20%...but you CAN DECREASE your useful load
by about 12% (if I have my numbers right). Fir is a little heavier than Spruce. Dave...D as in "Duh"...A...V...E "Lou Parker" wrote in message om... Del Rawlins wrote in message ... On 26 Oct 2003 06:24 PM, Lou Parker posted the following: Can anyone tell me the truth? When I read articles about the difference between the two woods, the information says that fir is 23% stronger than spruce. When I talk to people they say only 10%. Anyone got a handle on this? The difference between the two, is that sitka spruce will often forgive less than perfect technique, while doug fir will split if you so much as think the wrong thoughts about it. Sometimes even if you don't. Spruce, on the other hand, is a joy to work with. A few years ago I turned some unairworthy citabria spars into parts for a canoe. Still hoarding the one leftover spar for future use. 8^) ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ Does that mean that after building my plane with fir instead of spruce that I should be able to up my cruise speed, max speed and everything else by 20%? Lou |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:17:15 -0500, "D Reid" wrote:
You cant increase your speed by 20%...but you CAN DECREASE your useful load by about 12% (if I have my numbers right). Fir is a little heavier than Spruce. I just finished a new battery box for my Fly Baby. Actually TWO battery boxes, after the first one (made of oak) got laughed out of my EAA chapter. (Hey, I do a bit of non-aviation carpentry. I *love* working with oak!) FWIW, the poplar one weighed 1.25 pounds. The nearly-identical oak one weighed a half-pound more... a 40% weight penalty. Ron Wanttaja |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
You cant increase your speed by 20%...but you CAN DECREASE your useful load by about 12% (if I have my numbers right). Fir is a little heavier than Spruce. I just finished a new battery box for my Fly Baby. Actually TWO battery boxes, after the first one (made of oak) got laughed out of my EAA chapter. (Hey, I do a bit of non-aviation carpentry. I *love* working with oak!) FWIW, the poplar one weighed 1.25 pounds. The nearly-identical oak one weighed a half-pound more... a 40% weight penalty. Ron Wanttaja ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ SO????? Won't your Fly Baby carry a half-pound? If not, fly barefoot and save 300% or more. g Barnyard BOb -- If flying is the most fun you can have with your clothes on... How much fun can flying naked be? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I just finished a new battery box for my Fly Baby. Actually TWO battery
boxes, after the first one (made of oak) got laughed out of my EAA chapter. (Hey, I do a bit of non-aviation carpentry. I *love* working with oak!) FWIW, the poplar one weighed 1.25 pounds. The nearly-identical oak one weighed a half-pound more... a 40% weight penalty. I'd have thought you'd use spruce, it's even more poplar... :-) Ed Wischmeyer |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
In article , Ron Wanttaja says...
I kinda like either Black Walnut or Balsa :-) But I also think the subtle hues of Cherry can blend into a harmony of tones that are a feast to the senses.... I really liked the use of Oak tho' it was a nice touch. Chuck S I just finished a new battery box for my Fly Baby. Actually TWO battery boxes, after the first one (made of oak) got laughed out of my EAA chapter. (Hey, I do a bit of non-aviation carpentry. I *love* working with oak!) FWIW, the poplar one weighed 1.25 pounds. The nearly-identical oak one weighed a half-pound more... a 40% weight penalty. Ron Wanttaja |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:
[ generally good description regarding how Doug fir is not a true fir and other things ] If the wood you are buying or reading about is just called fir, it probably is NOT Douglas Fir. I think this depends upon where you are buying it. Here in Oregon 80% or so (warning: unsubstantiated number) of the evergreens are Doug fir. I think its pretty safe that the "fir" at my local lumber yard is indeed Doug fir. Now, it is also second growth Doug fir and is hardly suitable for a dog house much less an airplane. They just don't make trees like they used to. -- Frank Stutzman Bonanza N494B "Hula Girl" Hood River, OR |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Frank Stutzman wrote:
Fred the Red Shirt wrote: [ generally good description regarding how Doug fir is not a true fir and other things ] If the wood you are buying or reading about is just called fir, it probably is NOT Douglas Fir. I think this depends upon where you are buying it. Here in Oregon 80% or so (warning: unsubstantiated number) of the evergreens are Doug fir. I think its pretty safe that the "fir" at my local lumber yard is indeed Doug fir. Now, it is also second growth Doug fir and is hardly suitable for a dog house much less an airplane. They just don't make trees like they used to. FYI only a small fraction of the wood in any store in oregon comes from here. And Doug fir only makes up a small part of our forest, Hemlock, Pine and various hardwoods make up the bigger part. MOst of whats sold aaround the country as "fir" is actually Hemlock and a lot of it comes from Canada... There are small millworks in Oregon that will make sure you get what you ewwant for a fairly small premium. Even Sitka Spruce is available if you do some looking. Dave Oregon Native and Forest service brat. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
D.W. Taylor wrote:
FYI only a small fraction of the wood in any store in oregon comes from here. I could be biased by my location. I don't buy wood in any metro area as I don't live there. I am currently having a house built and everything that has been delivered has had a stamp or tag on it that said either SDS (a mill in Bingen WA, which is barely accross the Columbia) or Warm Springs (which I assume means it comes from the Warm Springs Indians). Now, on the other hand, I had a pole barn built last spring. It was a kit and the outfit that put it togather was from Canby (greater Portland area). Every stick of that building came from Canada. I was told it was "Canadian Pine." It was good looking wood, too. Much tighter grain, less knots than what I can get locally. Oregon Native and Forest service brat. Also an Oregon Native. I'm also the first of my family NOT to be making a living in the timber industry. Put myself through college setting chokers on some mighty big Douglas fir. -- Frank Stutzman Bonanza N494B "Hula Girl" Hood River, OR |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"D.W. Taylor" wrote in message ...
Frank Stutzman wrote: Fred the Red Shirt wrote: [ generally good description regarding how Doug fir is not a true fir and other things ] If the wood you are buying or reading about is just called fir, it probably is NOT Douglas Fir. I think this depends upon where you are buying it. Here in Oregon 80% or so (warning: unsubstantiated number) of the evergreens are Doug fir. I think its pretty safe that the "fir" at my local lumber yard is indeed Doug fir. I was remiss in not explaining more. There is an industry standards organisation, the American Softwood Lumber Association that sets standards for softwood lumber. They establish standards for species groups, dimensions for standard lumber sizes etc. There is a standard for Douglas Fir and a different standard for Hem-Fir. A higher minimum strength is required for Doug Fir than for Hem-Fir. If the lumber is just labeled 'Fir' and it really is Doug fir then it is mislabeled as an inferior product. If it isn't Doug Fir it almost certainly isn't as strong as Doug Fir. Now, there is no requirement that anyone use the standards set by the ASLA. Home Depot certainly does not. A friend in S.Cal had a deck made with Doug Fir timbers. THere were paper tags with bar codes on the lumber that said 'GRN FIR' (Green Fir) but the inked stamp from the actual lumber company that milled the lumber was the trademark triangle with 'DF' in it. IOW, Home Depot was relabeling the lumber as an inferior product, no doubt through ignorance or indifference. I think Hem-Fir, S-P-F and few other designations are trademarked by the ASLA, but a commonly used word or phrase cannot be a trademark so 'Douglas Fir', or just 'Fir' cannot eb tardemarked and that's why there are special symbols. I think there is a trade group just for Douglas Fir, a Google search should turn them up. So you may be right but you certainly shouldn't count on the lumber having the properties of Douglas Fir unless it is clearly waranteed as such. .... FYI only a small fraction of the wood in any store in oregon comes from here. And Doug fir only makes up a small part of our forest, Hemlock, Pine and various hardwoods make up the bigger part. MOst of whats sold aaround the country as "fir" is actually Hemlock and a lot of it comes from Canada... It ought to be labeled Hem-Fir. But maybe it isn't because the supplier does not want to warantee that it meets the ASLA standard for Hem-Fir. I've seen a lot of 'oak' furniture (without the quotemarks around the oak) that is made from rubber wood. A fair bit of 'maple' furniture is being made from beech these days and it has often been a common practice to substitute ash for oak w in places where the former is cheaper. There are small millworks in Oregon that will make sure you get what you ewwant for a fairly small premium. Even Sitka Spruce is available if you do some looking. Yep. The best (and cheapest) wood is bought direct from the sawyer. -- FF |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Sorry, Spruce and Jim Irwin | Larry Smith | Home Built | 79 | October 20th 03 05:34 PM |
Wood questions - Public Lumber Company, determining species at the lumberyard | Corrie | Home Built | 17 | September 17th 03 06:51 PM |