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#1
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
Does anyone know someone that is good at fixing cracked canopies.Need help getting it fixed,don't want to do it my self.
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#2
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
On Sunday, October 13, 2013 7:10:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Murphy wrote:
Does anyone know someone that is good at fixing cracked canopies.Need help getting it fixed,don't want to do it my self. Tim, Let's have a little more information: where are you and how far do you want to travel for the work to be done? |
#3
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
I live middle tennessee and will drive up to 300 miles.
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#4
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
Canopy maintenance question...
I have a chip (about 1/8" X 3/8") on the edge of the canopy where it meets the forward edge of the sliding window. The chip does not go all the way through the thickness of the canopy. I'm thinking that a crack might eventually develop from this chip and that maybe I should sand the chip smooth or put a dab of "glue" on the chipped edge?? Both? Or should I just leave it alone? Since the glider is new_to_me I do not know how long the chip has been there or how it happened. I don't know if the chip happened while I was owner of the glider or before. Suggestions welcome. What glue to use, etc..? |
#5
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
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#6
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair.. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.
Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease. Mike |
#7
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
There is only one cement for perspex that is two part:
Tensol 70 with a hardener. Then a Micromesh kit from Wings and Wheels for polishing. Tensol 70 works by dissolving the two sides of the crack, then setting hard and basically forms new perspex. Tensol 12 a similar adhesive will stick but has no strength. Other acrylic adhesives will stick but again have no strength. As SXC says below its should be taken with care and plenty of caution. It is liquid and runs and as it sets form strings and they stick to canopies. so care and masking. The process is simple, time consuming and requires infinite patience. Space does not permit a full description of how to do it. But small cracks are well within the scope of an owner. The first step is to drill the end of the crack with a fine drill. or hot needle. To stop it spreading. A red hot needle will give some form of seal. Dave At 21:58 14 October 2013, SoaringXCellence wrote: There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the materia= l. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick= it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dri= bble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via = capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse tog= ether. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you = are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent th= e solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair= .. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry = completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You sho= uld orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the= crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the i= nside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surf= ace. Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go ver= y slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about th= e "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is w= orse than the disease. Mike |
#8
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
On Monday, October 14, 2013 12:09:06 PM UTC-7, wrote:
I would suggest using Acrifix 192. http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produkt...IFIX%20192.pdf Acrifix 2R 0190 is the two component version. The straight 190 relies on UV for the cure. http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrif...s/default.aspx It's listed on Wings and Wheels website |
#9
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface. Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease. Mike So where are you located and Are u still fixing them? |
#10
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Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.
On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface. Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease. Mike Thanks for all the inputs you Guys.Is there anyone that i can take it or send the canopy to that can repair it for me? |
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