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Ka-6 Rigging



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 7th 08, 12:45 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
ka6e
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Posts: 2
Default Ka-6 Rigging

Steve, Wow I see you have a CR with a pendulum elevator, not
many of those were made, I saw one in New Zealand many years ago.
Mine also has a pendulum elevator however it's on a Ka6E

My manual suggests putting in the bottom main pin first, perhaps that
could be worth a try on the CR's as well I have also made fuselage
dollys
which makes managing the fuselage a snap,just roll it out and leave it
sit.

Agree with Bruce about the ingrates

We should remind them that our aircraft are made of a unidirectional
reinforced
laminated composite material consisting of micro-tubular fibres
embedded in a
long chain polymer matrix and having a near infinite fatigue life.

Dennis
Ka6E #4009


On Aug 7, 6:55 am, Steve Leonard wrote:
Ka-6s go together quite easy. Left wing on first, bring it in square or
slightly tip forward. Get the drag pin in, then move the tip aft until
the lift fitting bottoms out. Put a stand under it to make the bottom of
the spar roughly parallel with the fuselage deck. The leading edge is a
straight line from tip to tip, so tell your tip person this. That will
get you right on the fore and aft part for the second wing, so the wings
can slide together. I always put the drag pins in before the main pins.

To get the main pins in, I always have to tell the new guys to hold onto
the spar when you push the pins in. If you don't, the fuselage will roll
back (ours sits on its wheel with a stand to keep it upright) if the
fittings were not absolutely perfectly aligned, and the fitings will go
out of alignment, making the pin impossible to put in. Is this maybe when
you start to have an issue? I always like to go up as required to get the
top pin in first, then go down and get the bottom pin. Once both wings
are in place, it should take less than 30 seconds to get the pins in.
With the wings sitting on pads beside the fuselage, putting each one on
shouldn't take much over 30 seconds from Lift to On.

We find it is easiest to have three people. This way, you can easily set
the wing onto the fuselage, with one person suporting the wing by the
laeding edge, and one supporting it by the trailing edge at the root. The
TE guy can also tell you what needs to happen to engage the lift pin. Oh,
and with three people, nobody has to lift over about 40 lbs, or do a lift
in an awkward stance that might hurt your back.

Steve Leonard
Ka-6CrPE
N958Z


Ads
  #12  
Old August 7th 08, 09:50 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
db[_2_]
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Posts: 1
Default Ka-6 Rigging

On Aug 6, 2:41*am, vontresc wrote:
Well I finally got out in my (new to me anyways) Ka-6 the other day,
and I was wondering if anyone out there has some tips to make
assembling it any easier.


Hi Peter, It's good to hear from people that still love to fly wooden
ships.
I had the same problem trying to find people to rig my wooden glider
(BG12-16), so tinkered around in my workshop and after about 5
different versions came up with a one 'person' radio controlled device
that now fits the bill marvelously. The transmitter is tiny and can
fit in your shirt pocket or on a key-ring.
My wing roots are very heavy and awkward so I use a special 'clip-on'
trolley that picks up on the trailer fitting for the wing root so I
can wheel the wing out and only have to lift the tip out of it's
trolley and put it down again beside it. The rig does the rest.
I've since made another two for friends - one for a Nimbus and the
other for a Kestrel 19. The Kestrel owner rigs totally by himself,
and very quickly too might I add. - I wanted some pictures of him
derigging and in the time it took to get my camera out of the case and
turn it on he had one wing away allready! Needless to say he had to
get it out and start again so I could get the pics .

The rig entailed a lot of head-scratching to make it as simple and
compact as possible. The wing cradle comes off by pulling one pin and
then the thing just folds flat. I can quickly remove the wheels, or
if necessary, pull the axle out to reduce the width for stowing. My
one easily lifts 200 lb and the other two built lift 300 lb. I was
initially concerned about how the electrics would stand up to use in
the rain but they work fine (ask me how I know...) The last one I
made had the electronics in a sealed container just to be sure.
A couple of things to know if you try and build one, it needs to have
up and down movement of course, but must have a sliding sytem on the
axle to allow for back and forwards adjustment when rigging, and some
form of adjuster for holding the wing incidence. This last one is not
so important with fibreglass ships.

Good luck

derry
(New Zealand)



  #13  
Old August 8th 08, 05:10 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Steve Leonard[_2_]
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Posts: 1,076
Default Ka-6 Variants

Yes, the CrPE is a bit more rare. However, there are two of them based at
my field! And they are the two that were at the 1964 Nationals, at
McCook, Nebraska. One flown by Graham Thompson, and one (mine) by Rudy
Mozer. The truely rare are what is sometimes called a "Ka-6-0" (Ka-6
Zero), or a Ka-6BrPE.

Also at my field are two Brs, two Crs, and an E. Yes, Nick, N6501D is
still at Sunflower. It hasn't been very active lately, as the owners
have been rather busy. But, they did get it inspected last Fall. I
haven't seen either or them or the plane since, though. Rudy Mozer is
here at Uvalde, and he flew N6501D to his Diamond Distance from Adrian,
Michigan, to Frederick, Maryland, ifI remember the article correctly.
Just under 400 miles.

Not sure why the manual would suggest the bottom pin first. Maybe to
prevent you from trying to raise the tips high enough to get a pin in the
top when the wings weren't all the way together?

Ka-6s are great fun airplanes. They are light, easy to rig, handle
wonderfully, are inexpensive, and there is just something about flying a
wooden glider that is an experience you just can't get when flying
anything else.

And, I am having fun at Uvalde, even though I am falling back down the
scoresheet. On the plus side, I don't have far to fall! Great Job at
Parowan with the Twin, Nick!

Steve
  #14  
Old August 8th 08, 08:47 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
ka6e
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default Ka-6 Rigging

On Aug 8, 6:50 am, db wrote:
On Aug 6, 2:41 am, vontresc wrote:

Well I finally got out in my (new to me anyways) Ka-6 the other day,
and I was wondering if anyone out there has some tips to make
assembling it any easier.


Hi Peter, It's good to hear from people that still love to fly wooden
ships.
I had the same problem trying to find people to rig my wooden glider
(BG12-16), so tinkered around in my workshop and after about 5
different versions came up with a one 'person' radio controlled device
that now fits the bill marvelously. The transmitter is tiny and can
fit in your shirt pocket or on a key-ring.
My wing roots are very heavy and awkward so I use a special 'clip-on'
trolley that picks up on the trailer fitting for the wing root so I
can wheel the wing out and only have to lift the tip out of it's
trolley and put it down again beside it. The rig does the rest.
I've since made another two for friends - one for a Nimbus and the
other for a Kestrel 19. The Kestrel owner rigs totally by himself,
and very quickly too might I add. - I wanted some pictures of him
derigging and in the time it took to get my camera out of the case and
turn it on he had one wing away allready! Needless to say he had to
get it out and start again so I could get the pics .

The rig entailed a lot of head-scratching to make it as simple and
compact as possible. The wing cradle comes off by pulling one pin and
then the thing just folds flat. I can quickly remove the wheels, or
if necessary, pull the axle out to reduce the width for stowing. My
one easily lifts 200 lb and the other two built lift 300 lb. I was
initially concerned about how the electrics would stand up to use in
the rain but they work fine (ask me how I know...) The last one I
made had the electronics in a sealed container just to be sure.
A couple of things to know if you try and build one, it needs to have
up and down movement of course, but must have a sliding sytem on the
axle to allow for back and forwards adjustment when rigging, and some
form of adjuster for holding the wing incidence. This last one is not
so important with fibreglass ships.

Good luck

derry
(New Zealand)


Derry,
I saw your wonderful invention at Piako's 50th and was really
impressed with
the ease it brought to rigging/de-rigging the Kestrel 19 good job.

Dennis
Ka6E #4009
Australia
  #15  
Old August 8th 08, 01:05 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Posts: 289
Default Ka-6 Rigging

On Aug 5, 9:41*am, vontresc wrote:
Well I finally got out in my (new to me anyways) Ka-6 the other day,
and I was wondering if anyone out there has some tips to make
assembling it any easier. Ideally I'd like to get to a system where I
wouldn't have to bother fellow club members too much for help. I
figure as long as I keep the beer fridge stocked with good beer, I
might keep my fellow member happy enough to continue helping me
rig :-)

Peter


To make assembly easier, simply do what Tony and I have done with our
gliders: Take the glider off the trailer and assemble it for flight.
Then, take it apart and put it back on the trailer. Repete this
exercise about 25 times. After that, through a process similar to
evolution you will be able to to do it in a fraction of the time it
now takes.

MM

  #16  
Old August 8th 08, 02:31 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Posts: 3
Default Ka-6 Rigging

On Aug 5, 9:41 am, vontresc wrote:
Well I finally got out in my (new to me anyways) Ka-6 the other day,
and I was wondering if anyone out there has some tips to make
assembling it any easier. Ideally I'd like to get to a system where I
wouldn't have to bother fellow club members too much for help. I
figure as long as I keep the beer fridge stocked with good beer, I
might keep my fellow member happy enough to continue helping me
rig :-)

Peter


I've assembled my k6e for 8 years and found that concise instructions
to the wing tip holder, a wing tip stand and an additional stand near
the fuselage to stage the wing root is about as quick as it gets.
Consider raising the wing tip at the same time you bring the root onto
the fuselage, keep all the pins well greased, and use a third pair of
hands on a windy day. Finally, you can complete a critical assembly
check and a positive control check in just a moment or two with the
same help. All of this has never been a bother; help has always been
gracious and it's safe too.
  #17  
Old August 10th 08, 12:55 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Douglas Logan
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Posts: 2
Default Ka-6 Rigging

I rig and fly a K6CR

If you make sure the fuselage is exactly upright (install a small balance
indicator in a suitable place to assist) Then it seems the wings come
together quite easily
  #18  
Old August 11th 08, 03:10 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Chris Nicholas[_2_]
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Posts: 197
Default Ka-6 Rigging

I had about 30 years of experience rigging a Ka6E with only two of us. The
minimum equipment we used was either a car with a cushion on the roof, or
a trestle, plus a padded U-shaped cradle which I found is better if the
fuselage is a slightly sloppy fit in it.

To rig the first wing, I took the root, and the helper took the wingtip to
a position giving about 45 sweep back. Rotate the wing horizontally at
that point. The trailing edge of the root can now be rested on the turtle
deck. I then only had to hold the leading edge of the root to support part
of the root weight.

The wingtip holder then comes forward until the wing is at right angles to
the fuselage, in the normal rigging position. The drag pin can now be
inserted. I moved to the wingtip either to put a trestle under it, or
position the car with a cushion on its roof so that wingtip can rest on
it.

The wingtip helper and I then fetched the second wing and repeated the
process.

When both drag pins are in, the wingtip helper adjusts the height of his
wing. By rocking the fuselage slightly in its loose cradle, I was able to
ensure all holes lined up for the two main pins. This avoids the need for
either a second wingtip holder, or very precise alignment of the dihedral
of the first wing to the fuselage.

The point of the 45 sweep back is to avoid a very awkward stretch,
holding the whole weight of the root, until the wing root is resting on
the fuselage. Only a straight lift of the root weight was involved, not
lifting and stretching over it too.

Using a car roof and a cushion is a handy tip if the trestle is lost, or
has been left behind in the event of a field landing.

Chris N.

  #19  
Old August 14th 08, 12:17 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
vontresc
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 216
Default More Ka-Questions

Thanks for all the great advice. Rigging this weekend went a whole lot
easier than the first few times. besides the wings are still lighter
than some of the plastic ships at our field.

On to the next stupid question. I'd like to install a TE probe. From
what I can tell It never had a TE probe, but rather an internal
Schuemann Compensator. since I currently have neither, I really would
like to install some sort of TE system.

I am thinking of installing a standard tail mounted probe. The ILEC
probe and socket look good, but I am a bit apprehensive about drilling/
cutting into the tail. Any advice on what to do and not to do?

Thanks

Pete
  #20  
Old August 14th 08, 04:55 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Nick Kennedy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 124
Default More Ka-Questions

One option would be to go all out and install a CAI 302 and then plumb it
with electronic TE, which does work very very well in my Twin Astir.and
ASW 20.. you don't need a TE probe for this configuration.
Add a CAI 303 display and you would have a GPS engine, a certified logger
and a super easy to install and very easy to use computor/vario /final
glide computer that is accurate, and very easy to install the Ka polar and
easy to tweak to get just right.

Another option to install a TE probe, is to install one on the fuselage
top..Dick Johnson wrote a very good recent article on how to do this, it
is very low profile and does not have to be installed everytime your rig,
its permanetly installed and only aprox, a couple of inches tall and seems
to work quite well

Nick Kennedy



At 23:17 13 August 2008, vontresc wrote:

Thanks for all the great advice. Rigging this weekend went a whole lot
easier than the first few times. besides the wings are still lighter
than some of the plastic ships at our field.

On to the next stupid question. I'd like to install a TE probe. From
what I can tell It never had a TE probe, but rather an internal
Schuemann Compensator. since I currently have neither, I really would
like to install some sort of TE system.

I am thinking of installing a standard tail mounted probe. The ILEC
probe and socket look good, but I am a bit apprehensive about drilling/
cutting into the tail. Any advice on what to do and not to do?

Thanks

Pete

 




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