lead tail ballast

Ron (RW) wrote:
I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.

That must have been long ago, or Oliver is clearing them out of his
shop, as they cost something like 350 euros new from the factory. I had
a local machine shop turn one for me a few years back for $120 (most of
the cost was the brass), they took some measurements off the plastic
wheel, and had it for me the next day...

Marc

" Ron (RW) wrote:
I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.


I would be concious of the polar moments of the weight.
It is possible to be in the cg range and at the same time
exceeed the ability of the aircraft to make a spin recovery.
My first choice would be sliding the pilot back a bit by
making the chute and seat pan mode to get there. If
when you run out of rudder pedal adjustment, there is
always the use of "pads" on the pedals.

Have a great day

Scott

Hi,

A few years back I wanted to add weight to the tail of the Ventus B I was
part owner in at the time. The US Schempp-Hirth dealer at the time (Knauff
and Grove) sold me a lead weight that fit between the top of the fin and the
bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. It was very easy to install and remove
quickly. It worked great. It made it possible for me to fly the glider in
a much better CG location. One of my partners in the glider was much
lighter than me so he flew without the weight installed.

However, I must admit that as a mechanical engineer I was concerned about
putting so much weight (5 to 10 lbs? - I don't recall) up high on the fin.
In a ground loop or hard off-airport landing it would put a lot of twisting
force onto the tailboom. But it was never a problem.

Paul Remde
Cumulus Soaring, Inc.
http://www.cumulus-soaring.com

"Marc Ramsey" wrote in message
...
Ron (RW) wrote:
I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.

That must have been long ago, or Oliver is clearing them out of his shop,
as they cost something like 350 euros new from the factory. I had a local
machine shop turn one for me a few years back for $120 (most of the cost
was the brass), they took some measurements off the plastic wheel, and had
it for me the next day...

Marc

pbc76049 wrote:
I would be concious of the polar moments of the weight.
It is possible to be in the cg range and at the same time
exceeed the ability of the aircraft to make a spin recovery.
My first choice would be sliding the pilot back a bit by
making the chute and seat pan mode to get there. If
when you run out of rudder pedal adjustment, there is
always the use of "pads" on the pedals.

The DG factory will install a brass tailwheel, if you specify a high
enough minimum pilot weight when you order. Those of us who need a
brass tailwheel (or the more conventional block of lead in the tail) are
generally large enough that the seat back needs to be fully back, or in
some cases removed altogether. This really isn't all that unusual...

Marc

wrote:
Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

Is there an oxygen bottle tray in the boom as there is in the B model?
If so, could you add weight there? Of course, it would require more than
the 6 pounds that you planned on.

Paul

If you have non metal rim you can't melt the lead and pour it in, but
you can mix resin with hardener and add lots of grained lead. Use this
mixture to fill the voids in the wheel rim.

If this will not allow to increase the mass of the rim sufficiently, get
a metal turner to build a rim made of brass. Alternatively you may buy a
brass rim for my favorite gilder manufacturer
http:\\www.schempp-hirth.com . I know that others offer the brass rim too.


stephanevdv schrieb:
If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!


schreef:

Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9