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Maintenance questions
Okay, the Cherokee 140 annual is nearly finished. Compressions are 80, 80, 80, & 78 over 80 after 5 1/2 years and
650 hours of mostly autogas use. So far everything looks very good except for two things. My A&P IA was inspecting the propeller spinner back plate and was turning the prop real slow by hand as he did so. He noticed that the impulse coupler on the left mag wasn't clicking. He turned it a little faster and it works fine. Tried it slow again and sometimes... no clicky. Since I've had no starting problems, he suggests I just keep flying it unless it begins to give trouble. The mags won't be due for overhaul for at least another year. My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather not get stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. Question #2 The nose strut is not leaking, but there is a spot in which the chrome plating is beginning to blister. It is hard to see and is low on the strut where it would take some extremely hard braking or a big bump, (or one of my not so good landings, come to think of it) to get the top portion of the strut to pass over it. Eventually I suspect, it will need attention. Is it still possible to have these struts rechromed? A Google search turned up a post from 2002 listing these guys: Industrial Plating Co. Inc. 1300 Clydesdale Avenue P.O. Drawer 2365 Anniston, AL 36201 800-525-6408 Fax 256-237-1579 FAA Repair Station # IPBR525K Can anyone who has had this done in the not to distant past recommend additional business possibilities and perhaps relate a cost to do it? -- Joe Schneider 8437R (Remove No Spam to Reply) ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#2
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On 11-Aug-2005, "JJS" jschneider@remove socks cebridge.net wrote: My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather notget stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. A "sudden" failure would most likely be a fracture of the impulse coupler itself, which does not seem to be where your problem is leading. I'd deal with it if and when you begin having starting difficulties. However, please remember that this advice may be worth no more than you are paying for it. -- -Elliott Drucker |
#3
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: So far everything looks very good except for two things. My A&P IA was inspecting
the propeller spinner back plate : and was turning the prop real slow by hand as he did so. He noticed that the impulse coupler on the left mag wasn't : clicking. He turned it a little faster and it works fine. Tried it slow again and sometimes... no clicky. I would be a bit concerned on that. There are AD's against some mags' impulse couplings (like mine... O-360 with Bendix). Basically, the little tabbies that are supposed to catch and load the spring get worn. Also, there is a bad type of rivet that holds them on the impulse coupling. If the pivot point on the catch tabs are worn, it could be binding enough once in awhile so gravity won't drop them where they need to catch. If these couplings fail and fall apart, they'll drop a bunch of little steel pieces in the accessory housing and likely jam up the gears. Since important things like the camshaft run on those, it could ruin your day. Even if they aren't the type with ADs on them, I'd take the mags off an have a looksee. It doesn't take that long to take them off and look. Also, it's typical for only one mag on the Cherokees to have a impulse coupling. Does yours have one on both? : Question #2 The nose strut is not leaking, but there is a spot in which the chrome plating is beginning to blister. : It is hard to see and is low on the strut where it would take some extremely hard braking or a big bump, (or one of : my not so good landings, come to think of it) to get the top portion of the strut to pass over it. Eventually I : suspect, it will need attention. Is it still possible to have these struts rechromed? A Google search turned up a : post from 2002 listing these guys: I don't know about rechroming, but the worst thing I can think of that would happen would be a bit more wear on the rubber O-ring seals on the struts. They're not that tough to replace either... just a bit messy. I would be a bit concerned about any heating that may have to happen to have it rechromed. I don't know anything about the process, but losing the heat treatment on them could be bad. I'd probably see what some fine sandpaper on the blistered chrome would do. Just make sure it doesn't rust afterwards. -Cory -- ************************************************** *********************** * Cory Papenfuss * * Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student * * Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University * ************************************************** *********************** |
#4
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 21:03:51 -0500, "JJS" jschneider@remove socks
cebridge.net wrote: snip due for overhaul for at least another year. My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather not get stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. Typically, there is a light spring on each fly-weight that holds it in the engaged position to "cock" the coupling. When the engine starts, and the magneto RPM increases, the heavy end of the f-w overcomes the spring and keeps it from cocking and clicking. When the engine is running, tension from the main coiled flat spring that "fires" the coupling is what holds the coupling in the static straight-up (opposed to retarded for start) timing position. If the coupling does not cock-and-fire, you are trying to start your engine with standard timing (advanced 20-25 degrees BTDC). If the flat spring breaks, you have retarded "start" timing in flight-that is not a good thing. As another poster mentioned, the riveted assembly can come apart-that is not a good thing either. It's your airplane, you decide what you want to do. snip Industrial Plating Co. Inc. 1300 Clydesdale Avenue P.O. Drawer 2365 Anniston, AL 36201 800-525-6408 Fax 256-237-1579 FAA Repair Station # IPBR525K Can anyone who has had this done in the not to distant past recommend additional business possibilities and perhaps relate a cost to do it? Yes-it is much cheaper than purchasing a new strut, but it is not inexpensive. It is the only facility that I am aware of that has the capabilities (and the approval) to grind and hard-chrome aircraft struts. It will come back looking like brand-new. Regards; TC |
#5
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The coupler was failing on my left mag. Starting the plane became more
and more difficult particularly in cold weather. Why take a chance on being stuck somewhere? Dave 68 7ECA JJS wrote: Okay, the Cherokee 140 annual is nearly finished. Compressions are 80, 80, 80, & 78 over 80 after 5 1/2 years and 650 hours of mostly autogas use. So far everything looks very good except for two things. My A&P IA was inspecting the propeller spinner back plate and was turning the prop real slow by hand as he did so. He noticed that the impulse coupler on the left mag wasn't clicking. He turned it a little faster and it works fine. Tried it slow again and sometimes... no clicky. Since I've had no starting problems, he suggests I just keep flying it unless it begins to give trouble. The mags won't be due for overhaul for at least another year. My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather not get stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. Question #2 The nose strut is not leaking, but there is a spot in which the chrome plating is beginning to blister. It is hard to see and is low on the strut where it would take some extremely hard braking or a big bump, (or one of my not so good landings, come to think of it) to get the top portion of the strut to pass over it. Eventually I suspect, it will need attention. Is it still possible to have these struts rechromed? A Google search turned up a post from 2002 listing these guys: Industrial Plating Co. Inc. 1300 Clydesdale Avenue P.O. Drawer 2365 Anniston, AL 36201 800-525-6408 Fax 256-237-1579 FAA Repair Station # IPBR525K Can anyone who has had this done in the not to distant past recommend additional business possibilities and perhaps relate a cost to do it? |
#6
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If the impulse coupler spring breaks, you have, at best, a dead mag. If you
don't notice the subtlety in flight (as I once did) you will notice it as a dead mag on your next run-up. "JJS" jschneider@remove socks cebridge.net wrote in message ... So far everything looks very good except for two things. My A&P IA was inspecting the propeller spinner back plate and was turning the prop real slow by hand as he did so. He noticed that the impulse coupler on the left mag wasn't clicking. He turned it a little faster and it works fine. Tried it slow again and sometimes... no clicky. Since I've had no starting problems, he suggests I just keep flying it unless it begins to give trouble. The mags won't be due for overhaul for at least another year. My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather not get stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. -- Joe Schneider 8437R (Remove No Spam to Reply) |
#7
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There are ADs against many mags, some of them dealing with
impulse failures. Get the mechanic to check for any that apply to this mag. Corrosion and sludging often cause sticky impulse couplings. Neither are good, especially the corrosion, which can cause spring breakage and power loss. Mags on infrequently-flown airplanes, or those mags that haven't been off for a long time, definitely need checking. Dan Dan |
#8
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If the coupling does not cock-and-fire, you are trying to start your engine with standard timing (advanced 20-25 degrees BTDC). If the flat spring breaks, you have retarded "start" timing in flight-that is not a good thing. As another poster mentioned, the riveted assembly can come apart-that is not a good thing either. It's your airplane, you decide what you want to do. snip Industrial Plating Co. Inc. 1300 Clydesdale Avenue P.O. Drawer 2365 Anniston, AL 36201 800-525-6408 Fax 256-237-1579 FAA Repair Station # IPBR525K Can anyone who has had this done in the not to distant past recommend additional business possibilities and perhaps relate a cost to do it? Yes-it is much cheaper than purchasing a new strut, but it is not inexpensive. It is the only facility that I am aware of that has the capabilities (and the approval) to grind and hard-chrome aircraft struts. It will come back looking like brand-new. Regards; TC TC, Thanks. I was hoping you'd comment. I called my A&P IA today and visited with him. We will pull the mag and inspect the coupling closely. All of the mag AD's have been been complied with all along since I've owned the airplane. I appreciate the comments on the repair station as well. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#9
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"DL" wrote in message ink.net... If the impulse coupler spring breaks, you have, at best, a dead mag. If you don't notice the subtlety in flight (as I once did) you will notice it as a dead mag on your next run-up. May I ask how you detected a broken impulse coupler spring in flight, DL? I might learn something here. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#10
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depending on the Mag, there is a service AD for the magneto on the impulse
coupler fly weight tolerances (or something like that). I'd ask about the AD and ask if your mag requires that inspection. I think it is due at each annual. BT "JJS" jschneider@remove socks cebridge.net wrote in message ... Okay, the Cherokee 140 annual is nearly finished. Compressions are 80, 80, 80, & 78 over 80 after 5 1/2 years and 650 hours of mostly autogas use. So far everything looks very good except for two things. My A&P IA was inspecting the propeller spinner back plate and was turning the prop real slow by hand as he did so. He noticed that the impulse coupler on the left mag wasn't clicking. He turned it a little faster and it works fine. Tried it slow again and sometimes... no clicky. Since I've had no starting problems, he suggests I just keep flying it unless it begins to give trouble. The mags won't be due for overhaul for at least another year. My question is: Is there a slow death type "normal" failure mode in which progressively harder starts occur or do impulse couplers usually fail suddenly and leave you stranded? I really don't want to throw away money. On the other hand I'd rather not get stranded after dark at an airport away from home with no mechanics around or parts to be had. Question #2 The nose strut is not leaking, but there is a spot in which the chrome plating is beginning to blister. It is hard to see and is low on the strut where it would take some extremely hard braking or a big bump, (or one of my not so good landings, come to think of it) to get the top portion of the strut to pass over it. Eventually I suspect, it will need attention. Is it still possible to have these struts rechromed? A Google search turned up a post from 2002 listing these guys: Industrial Plating Co. Inc. 1300 Clydesdale Avenue P.O. Drawer 2365 Anniston, AL 36201 800-525-6408 Fax 256-237-1579 FAA Repair Station # IPBR525K Can anyone who has had this done in the not to distant past recommend additional business possibilities and perhaps relate a cost to do it? -- Joe Schneider 8437R (Remove No Spam to Reply) ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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