More trailer tire/wheel issues

I had one brake lock up going over an abrupt slab transition at a bridge. According to the skid marks, the wheel lined up behind the hitch, then the brake let go. Acceleration and counter steering jackknifed me into the ditch.

Trailer manual advice is to hold steering straight and tap brakes.

Have you read your trailer manual?

Yes, you can crash a Puch and walk away. But the car was a write-off.

Chip....how do you disconnect the brake system?

R

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 1:59:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
....how do you disconnect the brake system?

https://www.homedepot.com/s/sawzall?NCNI-5

Beat ya to it Bob K. !!

Temporary (!) ways to disconnect the surge brake on my 1992 Cobra:

1. The aft end of the long brake rod under the trailer (just ahead of the axle) is threaded and attaches to the "splitter" plate that pulls the Bowden cables, one for each brake. IIRC, there's a nut and a lock nut: just remove these and pulling on the brake rod will have no effect on the brakes. Make sure the aft end of the brake rod can't fall down and drag if the emergency brake is actuated. If so, cable tie it to the bracket under the trailer.

2. Recently I disassembled the front pivot for the hook that is pushed by the end of the surge brake tube inside the tongue. That hook then pulls the brake rod, which runs under the trailer. On my trailer, remove one bolt and the hook and emergency brake assembly fall out. You could just tie up the front end of the brake rod and the emergency brake handle and mechanism with a shock cord. Fold the handle down before you do this, though. This would disconnect the brake but it might also allow the sliding tongue to compress even more than normal when braking. I don't think so--there's an internal stop--but I'm not going to try this until I check.

3. The ends of the Bowden cable housings bolt into the splitter plate. So if you unthread the cable housings, the cables can't be actuated. If they're flopping around loose, tie them up so they can't drag.

Methods 1 and 3 involve crawling under the trailer. It's not bad; you don't have to jack it up. Method 1 is quicker and easier. But method 2 would be easier still if it doesn't cause harm.

And, of course, you have to be careful when reassembling that you don't thread things up too tight and actuate the Bowden cables, then drive around with the brakes partially applied. In my experience, it's very easy to see when the cables are slack and when they're under tension.

Of course, a brake system that works every time would eliminate the need for any of this.

Chip Bearden

OK...thanks....I’ll print this out and save for reference should the need arise.

R

On Monday, July 22, 2019 at 4:05:54 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Temporary (!) ways to disconnect the surge brake on my 1992 Cobra:

1. The aft end of the long brake rod under the trailer (just ahead of the axle) is threaded and attaches to the "splitter" plate that pulls the Bowden cables, one for each brake. IIRC, there's a nut and a lock nut: just remove these and pulling on the brake rod will have no effect on the brakes. Make sure the aft end of the brake rod can't fall down and drag if the emergency brake is actuated. If so, cable tie it to the bracket under the trailer.

A Pfeiffer and Komet we owned for years were troublefree. I can't recall whether the Komet had the automatic feature that allowed you to back up without locking out the surge brake but the Pfeiffer did not. Maybe the added complication makes the system a bit sensitive.

When the system works, as it normally does, it works well. But when it doesn't, the failure mode can be catastrophic: failed bearings and cooked brake lining crumbling off the brake shoes (I've never had a tire fail because of it). It's probably something simple. But it's not because of neglect, lack of knowledge of conventional brake systems, or motivation.

Chip Bearden

I have a 1990 Cobra with non functioning brakes due to a blowout where I didn't catch it and drug the trailer quite a ways and tore up the drum assembly.
I've got to get a Dexter Axel on there with electric brakes. I think having functioning trailer brakes even at fairly low weights is very important.
A pickup pulled out in front of me this summer and I had a wild scary close call, having trailer brakes would have been very good. I was lucky I didn't T-Bone him and have a very nasty accident. Highway travel is dangerous.

"Highway travel is dangerous."


Nick- we didn't worry so much about dangerous situations when we were hang gliding with JZ and Zoardog. What changed? Lightning strike or something? ;-P~~~~

I pulled the drum off the wheel that was hot enough to steam water Both ends of the sealed bearing fell out along with most of the ball bearings! I believe the bearing was in the process of failing from overheated brakes after an hour of down hill towing......hwy80 west of Reno. W&W didn’t have the replacement and Cobra is on Holiday, but I was able to find it on line for $45/ea after giving ID 30mm, OD 60mm, H 37mm ( old bearing was. Armed AL-KO 581736).
This is the second time I have had very hot brakes after an extended downhill tow. I have fitted a simple brake lock-out that prevents the surge brake from surging! It consists of a piece of plastic pipe who’s ID matches the OD of the surge cylinder (2� pipe X3.75� for my Cobra), split it into two halves with a hacksaw and place them on the surge brake in the fully extended position. Secure them with two hose clamps and I’m good to go down the Sierras without hot brakes! E-mail me for photo.
JJ

PS, my blown tire was most probably age related, these new looking tires all have a born on date of 99!