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#31
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Sears tools
Scott wrote:
Could they be the sub-C size as quoted below from the Batteries America website? (Says they are .91" in diameter and 1.69" in length. KR-1300SC Sub C 1.2V 1300 mAh .910" 1.690" 1.56 $2.75 ea.BUY http://www.batteriesamerica.com/newpage3.htm Scott That looks about right. And that also looks like a very good price. But look what else I found! (among other things...) http://www.batterybank.net/digital/powertools/ Richard |
#32
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Sears tools
"cavelamb himself" wrote That looks about right. And that also looks like a very good price. But look what else I found! (among other things...) http://www.batterybank.net/digital/powertools/ Yep. You could go the route of replacing all of the cells with nickel metal hydride cells and using your own case, if you don't mind the work, and save yourself some money. That is the route I would go, personally. The nearly double capacity is nice to have. You can shop around the web for more battery sellers, for the best prices. There are tons of them out there, with some pretty good competition. While you're at it, order enough cells to do both packs, and you will get some more discount in price, from some of the places. Sometimes, you can find a place (not necessarily web places) that is selling battery packs for video recorders, or power tools that is getting rid of some stock for really cheap- cheaper than the price of individual cells. While you are ordering batteries, I'll bet you have a dust buster or two sitting around with dead batteries in it. Gather them all up, and see how many you need, all together. Get your brother in law to see how many he needs to buy, an order them all at the same time, while you are at it. Make sure he understands he replaces his own, though! You might have enough to really get a good discount, by now. And a lot more work, too! -- Jim in NC |
#33
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Sears tools
Morgans wrote:
You could go the route of replacing all of the cells with nickel metal hydride cells and using your own case, if you don't mind the work, and save yourself some money. That is the route I would go, personally. The nearly double capacity is nice to have. You can shop around the web for more battery sellers, for the best prices. There are tons of them out there, with some pretty good competition. While you're at it, order enough cells to do both packs, and you will get some more discount in price, from some of the places. Sometimes, you can find a place (not necessarily web places) that is selling battery packs for video recorders, or power tools that is getting rid of some stock for really cheap- cheaper than the price of individual cells. While you are ordering batteries, I'll bet you have a dust buster or two sitting around with dead batteries in it. Gather them all up, and see how many you need, all together. Get your brother in law to see how many he needs to buy, an order them all at the same time, while you are at it. Make sure he understands he replaces his own, though! You might have enough to really get a good discount, by now. And a lot more work, too! Interesting stuff. A few years back I bought a cheap harbor freight 12v cordless drill with an extra battery pack. Surprisingly the drill was pretty good quality for the money but the battery packs were shot in a week. Now the drill is still sitting around here somewhere and pretty much useless. I was thinking about adding a long cord and a cigarette lighter adapter so the thing could be used out and about rather than tossing it. I'm considering fixing it now. Tony |
#34
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Sears tools
Morgans wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote That looks about right. And that also looks like a very good price. But look what else I found! (among other things...) http://www.batterybank.net/digital/powertools/ Yep. You could go the route of replacing all of the cells with nickel metal hydride cells and using your own case, if you don't mind the work, and save yourself some money. That is the route I would go, personally. The nearly double capacity is nice to have. You can shop around the web for more battery sellers, for the best prices. There are tons of them out there, with some pretty good competition. While you're at it, order enough cells to do both packs, and you will get some more discount in price, from some of the places. Sometimes, you can find a place (not necessarily web places) that is selling battery packs for video recorders, or power tools that is getting rid of some stock for really cheap- cheaper than the price of individual cells. While you are ordering batteries, I'll bet you have a dust buster or two sitting around with dead batteries in it. Gather them all up, and see how many you need, all together. Get your brother in law to see how many he needs to buy, an order them all at the same time, while you are at it. Make sure he understands he replaces his own, though! You might have enough to really get a good discount, by now. And a lot more work, too! Well, there is also the charger to consider. It was designed for NiCds of a certain size. What would new technology higher capacity batteries do to the charger? Richard |
#35
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Sears tools
"Anthony W" wrote Interesting stuff. A few years back I bought a cheap harbor freight 12v cordless drill with an extra battery pack. Surprisingly the drill was pretty good quality for the money but the battery packs were shot in a week. Now the drill is still sitting around here somewhere and pretty much useless. I was thinking about adding a long cord and a cigarette lighter adapter so the thing could be used out and about rather than tossing it. I'm considering fixing it now. Two things to consider, here. Cheap batteries, like you said. Probably very small capacity, too. Replace them with the largest capacity batteries that will fit, if you go that route. Next, is that the charger is a cheap, no brain charger, and will happily over charge your batteries, and charge your new battery to death. If you don't have a smart, peak detecting charger from another drill or power tool that you can rig a couple wires with alligator clips to, or slide terminals (whatever will work the best with your cheap drill pack) you should figure out what else you could do about charging. If you have enough stuff you want to charge properly, you could get a remote control car or airplane battery charger (a field charger that runs off of 12 volts is probably your cheapest good option) and charge all of your assorted stuff with that. You know you are getting full charges, and not over charges. You would have to make the call on whether it is worth spending a fair amount of money on something like that. Another fairly inexpensive option is to use the charger that came with it, but add some "options" to it. With the drill pack drained, put a volt meter in line, and check how many milliamps the charger is putting out. As it is about half charged, and then 90% charged, read the milliamps again. That will give you some idea of how much the charger is putting out on average. Get yourself a 12 hour wind up timer switch, and make up a timed outlet to plug your cheap charger into. You should then be able to make an educated guess at how long it needs to charge, depending on how much you drained the battery. You will need to put about 10% extra charge (when charging a full charge time; pro-rate shorter times accordingly) into the battery, based on straight capacity and charger output. Note that this type of thing is not the best way to do things, but better than killing new batteries with over charges. If you have a smart charger around, adapt it to charge all of your stuff with dumb chargers. Hope that is food for though. I need to rig up a new pack and alternate charge method for a cheap drill, myself. It was so cheap I couldn't pass it up! g -- Jim in NC |
#36
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Sears tools
"cavelamb himself" wrote It was designed for NiCds of a certain size. What would new technology higher capacity batteries do to the charger? I have never seen a cheap charger that would hurt itself by trying to put out more charge to a big pack. They just sit there and put out the maximum they are rated for, for as long as you leave them plugged in. Another note on that; don't trust the specs on the charger, as I have seen chargers that would put out over 50% more than what they said they would put out, and a few that put out significantly less. They only thing you need to do when charging with a smaller charger than is ideal, is to charge for a longer period of time. If you have a 120 milliamp output charger (and that is what it puts out) and you have a fully drained 1200 milliamp hour battery, it needs to charge for 11 hours. You'all have to do the math for your specific situation. As I posted in another reply in this thread, you should definitely have some type of system to turn the damn charger off, or it _will_ kill your new pack by over charging. I have also seen people plug dumb chargers into weekly timers after they are charged to give it a bump once a week, to keep up with the self discharge characteristics of the battery. -- Jim in NC |
#37
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Sears tools
Morgans wrote:
"Anthony W" wrote Interesting stuff. A few years back I bought a cheap harbor freight 12v cordless drill with an extra battery pack. Surprisingly the drill was pretty good quality for the money but the battery packs were shot in a week. Now the drill is still sitting around here somewhere and pretty much useless. I was thinking about adding a long cord and a cigarette lighter adapter so the thing could be used out and about rather than tossing it. I'm considering fixing it now. Two things to consider, here. Cheap batteries, like you said. Probably very small capacity, too. Replace them with the largest capacity batteries that will fit, if you go that route. Next, is that the charger is a cheap, no brain charger, and will happily over charge your batteries, and charge your new battery to death. If you don't have a smart, peak detecting charger from another drill or power tool that you can rig a couple wires with alligator clips to, or slide terminals (whatever will work the best with your cheap drill pack) you should figure out what else you could do about charging. If you have enough stuff you want to charge properly, you could get a remote control car or airplane battery charger (a field charger that runs off of 12 volts is probably your cheapest good option) and charge all of your assorted stuff with that. You know you are getting full charges, and not over charges. You would have to make the call on whether it is worth spending a fair amount of money on something like that. Another fairly inexpensive option is to use the charger that came with it, but add some "options" to it. With the drill pack drained, put a volt meter in line, and check how many milliamps the charger is putting out. As it is about half charged, and then 90% charged, read the milliamps again. That will give you some idea of how much the charger is putting out on average. Get yourself a 12 hour wind up timer switch, and make up a timed outlet to plug your cheap charger into. You should then be able to make an educated guess at how long it needs to charge, depending on how much you drained the battery. You will need to put about 10% extra charge (when charging a full charge time; pro-rate shorter times accordingly) into the battery, based on straight capacity and charger output. Note that this type of thing is not the best way to do things, but better than killing new batteries with over charges. If you have a smart charger around, adapt it to charge all of your stuff with dumb chargers. Hope that is food for though. I need to rig up a new pack and alternate charge method for a cheap drill, myself. It was so cheap I couldn't pass it up! g Cerainly food for thought, Morg. Thanks a lot. Richard |
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